there is no point. For this kind of money + shipping from the US to Europe I'd get a duet. A cheap alternative is mks sbase from aliexpress but... I don't know if it works well.... and it uses the controversial DRV8825..by icefire - General
I am not a fan of Chinese knock offs, but maybe it could be an alternative to use an Arduino Due clone (15 USD) and a Ramps-FD (20 USD) in order to just see how print quality is changed by going 32-bit?by icefire - General
Well I am very curious as well but haven't tried it yet. This seems to be the most expensive experiment after building a CoreXY from scratch. What I know so far is that there are almost no visible ripples at 0,2mm layer height. So If I want to go lower maybe it would be a good idea to use a smaller nozzle. I guess that there is a correlation between the nozzle size, the layer height and the rippby icefire - General
So layer height definitely has impact on the ripples. I have a 0.4mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2mm shows visible improvement compared to 0.1mm, whereas 0.3mm is not better that 0.2mm...by icefire - General
The model may be less than perfect but it illustrates the effect pretty well. However, I forgot to mention that the ripples are the biggest immediately after a geometry chaneg (corner, hole, etc.) and then become immer smaller and with larger spacing until they disappear. @ Origamib could you please print the model I attached in my first post @200% scale and post some pictures? It will cost you jby icefire - General
I am thinking of a CoreXY Build myself... But that was just a small footnote Back on the topic, I would almost conclude that the weight on the Y carriage has little to no effect. I used to have a small 200x200 PCB heatbed and had the same issue nonetheless. Now I am utilizing a 250x320mm silicone heater glued to a 6mm machined cast aluminum plate. I even used to have a glass on top of it whicby icefire - General
So I have ben trying to get rid of this terrible rippling effect on my prints: It is not very bad but I want to eliminate it. When I declared war against the ripples I was using DRV8825. So I have tried the following thus far: 1. Putting the DRV8825 in fast decay mode. Result: Small improvement 2. Changing DRV8825 with A4988. Result: Same as DRV8825 in fast decay mode, overall better thanby icefire - General
Well, the heated bed is a 6mm thick machined cast aluminum plate. I tried mesh bed leveling but there was no difference to grid (using an inductive sensor) Upon visual inspection the nozzle doesn't seem to be too close to the heated bed in this area... Maybe I should reduce the distance to the bed and reduce the extrusion rate for the first layer...by icefire - General
So I have been printing some large parts (almost as large as the heated bed) in ABS. I noticed that the first layer lines tend to partially warp and not stick to the bed: This only happens in one specific part of the bed. I have this problem with ABS only. Increasing the print speed of the first layer helps but it doesn't make sense - normally the part sticks better when the first layer is priby icefire - General
I just printed this turbine blower. As most comments suggest, it does blow like hell. I used it with a 24V 10000 RPM DC motor. However there are two main disadvantages. The blower ist incredibly loud at 100% PWM. However, it is much worse that the blower cannot produce air pressure. It is good just for moving air around. Once I connect a hose adapter for two small 6mm hoses there is about 25% ofby icefire - General
I am looking at this turbine blower: Seems pretty simple and easy to try.by icefire - General
Quotedc42 There is also a commercial implementation available called Berd Air. If you connect anything other than a brushless DC fan to a fan output of your electronics, connect a flyback diode in parallel with it to protect the fan mosfet. Thanks! Berd Air seems an interesting solution but I think that the perforated cooling tubing will get heated by the hot end and thus it will blow hot air.by icefire - General
So I have been printing ABS for about an year and a half. Now that I think that I have more or less mastered ABS I made my first attempts at PLA. After doing some first prints, which were so-so because of insufficient cooling, I installed two radial 40mm fans blowing directly at the part. Huge improvement but still insufficient. So I thought I could go big and use an air pump. There are huge adby icefire - General
No, I didn't, I didn't want to fiddle around setting up a new firmware from scratch, sorry for the late replay, somehow I missed your post - apologies. I just found out that bilinear bed levelling is now part of the new RC8. I am eager to check it out QuoteMake Bilinear (Mesh) Grid Leveling available for non-deltaby icefire - General
Did you try the dev_ubl branch? I haven't done anything yet because it's not at the top of my priority listby icefire - General
QuoteJoachim Icefire: Thanks for your reply! Well, one advantage of watercooling would be that I could use it together with a heated chamber. But I'm not set yet and will take your solution into consideration (Maybe upgrading to water cooling at a later point?) As I already have some silent 50mm fans, I will start with them, but your link is great (thinking about ordering some of them for anotheby icefire - General
My thoughts on your plan: As far as the e3d v6 is concerned, I replaced the stock 30mm fan with an ultra-quiet 40mm one. It is virtually audible at 12V and the air flow is sufficient - never had any problems with the filament expanding in the heat break. This solution is much cheaper than the water cooling concept. Last but not least, the water pump makes noises as well. The filament fans youby icefire - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist The motors and fans will make more noise than the bearings. Exactly. You could also check for supported linear guides on ebay - there are cheap used ones. I couldn't find the proper ones for me but maybe you'd have more luck. Linear shafts with ball bearings would be second best.by icefire - General
I am running my RAMPS on 12V and my relatively big heated bed on 24V. You can use your RAMPS with 24V, however you should power the Arduino through a separate voltage source (which is always a good idea as the integrated AMS1117 voltage regulator is much too weak if you are running a big screen and servos) and check if your caps can handle the voltage (normally they should be rated for 35V but tby icefire - General
My first attempt at a 3d printer with no previous experience on CNC machines relied entirely on IGUS products: - drylin N for the X axis - drylin W for the Y carriage (in my case a traditional Mendel-style moving bed) - igubal - spherical bearings for the Z Axis Now I have replaced all of them with traditional linear ball bearings. 95% of all the noise levels come from the motors and fans so ifby icefire - General
So while I was heating up the nozzle the printer suddenly showed me a "Maxtemp - printer halted" Error. I thought it was a short between the thermistor leads so I checked the resistance which was about 118 kOhm at room temperature which seems plausible. And here starts the mystery. - If I swap the bed and hot end sensors both seem to show normal values - If I disconnect the hot end thermistor Iby icefire - General
Sorry if the question has already been asked but I couldn't find much useful information. So I have been playing with an inductive sensor for a few days which I find surprisingly accurate and consistent. After trying out automatic bed leveling in grid and 3-point mode I decided to try out also the so called mesh bed leveling procedure. So I followed the instructions here to set up manual mesh lby icefire - General
I printed the model with a humongous brim so I suppose the guitar wasn't moving. If it did wobble during the print this would result in a poor print quality... and the guitar is perfect (except for the shifted layers). This also doesn't explain the initial position of the guitar base which is about 1mm off target. I suppose next time I print the model I will add supports to the guitar to increasby icefire - General
??? In the X and Y axis simultaneously? If the nozzle were mechanically impeded to reach the right spot in the guitar area this would result in a layer shift everywhere - not just the guitar...by icefire - General
So this is something I have never seen before. I wanted to print the Rocktapus. After completing one successful print in ABS I scaled the model to almost twice the size and printed it in PLA. However, the guitar got somehow shifted. What is even stranger, it is just the guitar that is shifted. To make things worse, the guitar moved both along the X and Y axis. I am baffled. If the stepperby icefire - General
I have been having similar thoughts so I am going to try both solutions: - the diode fix - A4988 drivers ...and report back once it's done.by icefire - General
Sorry for the stupid question. I have been playing with s $2,50 inductive sensor which is surprisingly accurate and consistent. In order to get the perfect Z offset I have been printing a part with the dimensions of the printable part of the heated bed and a thickness of 0,2mm (1st layer thickness). But is there a way to do this without actually printing? Can I somehow move the nozzle in the XY pby icefire - General
Yes, you assumed correctly. However, the X carriage is not heavy. A simple aluminum carrier plate, e3d v6 hot end, greg wade's geared extruder + one Nema 17 motor. That's it. I wouldn't go for bowden setup because this means trouble with stringing, etc. I have tried it as well but am overall happier with the direct setup. I have been thinking of using a smaller and lighter motor instead but Iby icefire - General
To summarize, the screen flickering has nothing to do with the motors or the regenerated current. That was a problem with my 5V regulation which is already solved. The ripples/vertical lines remain unsolved. I have ordered A4988 drivers. Until they come I am going to check the 4-diodes-per-phase solution.by icefire - General
ok, the screen flickering is now solved (either using the stock Arduino voltage regulator by feeding it 7,5V and using a small heatsink or with LM7805 and two capacitors (0,1 and 0,33 uF + small heatsink) - both solutions work fine). But I just noticed that the LEDs I have attached next to the nozzle to illuminate the object being printed also flicker in phase with the PWM regulation. The LEDsby icefire - General