QuoteTraumflug Bye bye IRLB8743. Maximum input voltage 20V. What I meant was that I tested with 24V applied to CONN1 and nothing else connected to the board. The voltage applied to the IRLB8743 was never more than 5V. I used one of your pictures to avoid a misunderstanding:by icefire - General
So before ordering "the real thing" I soldered the components on to a prototype circuit board according to the seven switch schematics: But I have a slight problem. I did the following tests: - tried with 24V input voltage, no load - everything is fine - tried triggering with 5V signal - all good, the LED lights up - tried connecting the heated bed (24V 400W) and triggering the switch with theby icefire - General
Noctua doesn't really offer a 24V 60mm fan. In addition to that I didn't quite find a plethora of silent 24V fans (<20 d which is why I thought of Option 1 - for example this one has a decent airflow to noise ratio which I guess is comparable to a less powerful 24V fan...by icefire - General
Well it is a mendel-style moving bed, so properly grounding it could be tricky. Nothing impossible but I didn't want a mains powered bed. Instead I am going to power it with the 24V PSU using a signal pin from the RAMPs and switching it through a MOSFET. Using a larger 24V fan would mean having to remove the top cover of the PSU which ultimately means that it would not fit the slot where I wanteby icefire - General
Yes, you have a point there. However, my signature shows the current state of the machine. I am going to upgrade the heated bed with a much bigger one (400W just for the bed heater). Chinese PSUs have not more than 80% efficiency and the nominal power is strictly theoretical. So this is why I went for a larger PSU with some power to spare in order to avoid having a smaller PSU run at nearly fulby icefire - General
So I just got a relatively cheap 24V 800W chinese power supply. It seems to work fine but the fan is unbearably loud. Since all my other fans are extra quiet this one really stands out. It is a 24V 60x60x25mm chinese fan but seems quite powerful. I have been thinking of the following solutions: 1. Use a silent 12V fan with a simple voltage divider or a cheap LM2596 2. Use a larger fan with loweby icefire - General
...and one more question: Could I replace the AMS1117 5.0 with something more... durable?by icefire - General
There is one thing which is still unclear to me. The voltage regulator is only needed when there is no external 5V power source (through the 5V input or usb). However, I had the usb cable almost constantly plugged in, so the 5v regulator wasn't supposed to overheat...by icefire - General
Genuine Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4. The PSU was on and the USB cable was plugged in. However, the pc failed to recognize the Arduino (which happens sometimes), so I wanted to unplug the usb cable and plug it in again. When unplugging the usb cable I heard a quiet bang and the LCD went out. Now the LCD does not work when the PSU is on. If I connect the USB cable, the display lights up but isby icefire - General
This is an interesting idea - using a second aluminum plate instead of glass on top of the 2mm heat spreader. This is btw the solution implemented in Mendelmax 3.0, however, they are using a steel plate. A thick aluminum plate would be option 2, but I think that printing directly on it would eventually lead to scratches... Which is why I am thinking of glass...by icefire - Reprappers
Guys, you are drifting off topic. I am not using tempered or otherwise hardened glass if the price difference to normal glass is significant.. 4 mm glass is not that easy to break if the heat is evenly distributed. I was thinking if a 2mm heat spreader underneath the glass is enough and whether aluminum warping is going to influence the heat exchange with the glass bed.by icefire - Reprappers
Faulty RAMPS? Check for bent pins or any signs of mechanical damage.. Maybe test with another RAMPS unit...by icefire - Reprappers
Thank you all for your input so far! As far as borosilicate glass is concerned, I am convinced that normal window glass from the friendly local glazier works just as well. First of all, normal glass can withstand pretty high temperatures, provided that the glass plate is heated evenly. Glass would only shatter if big temperature differences occur. A 4mm glass plate would be easy and cheap to acqby icefire - Reprappers
So, as some of you may know from my other question about heated beds, I am about to upgrade my MK2B PCB bed heater with a much larger 24V silicone heater. Today I finally ordered a custom 250x320mm heater with a total power of 400W (0,5W/cm^2). I would like to attach it to an aluminum spreader plate in order to distribute the heat evenly. Now the bigger question - which is the best alternative tby icefire - Reprappers
QuoteTraumflug Current limiting on the SevenSwitch isn't the MOSFET (good for 150 A ignoring the package, good for 70 A taking the package into account) and also not the PCB (really wide tracks there), but the screw terminals. These can warm up due to not optimal contacts; make sure to use not only thick wires, but also well cleaned wire ends. Thanks! So I am going to get some nice wire contactsby icefire - General
Wow, this seems to be a great solution. One question though: The wiki page suggests the SevenSwitch is capable of switching currents up to 15 Amps. In my case, if I go for 0,5 W/cm^2 on the heated bed, I would have a current of almost 17 Amps. I actually do not see any problem with this current. The datasheet of IRLB8743 states an RDS(on) of just 32 mOhm so temperature shouldn't be a problem.by icefire - General
How about using a mosFET to hook up the larger heated bed? There are a bunch or aliexpress sellers who can make a custom size silicone heater. So for 370W heated bed @24V I would get about 16 Amps of current. A decent DC SSR can be pretty expensive and I fear that the cheap ones on aliexpress have a huge voltage drop. So how about a mosFET? Anyone with experience?by icefire - General
Quotedc42 I think you will find that most good 3D printers with beds larger than 200 x 200mm use 24V-capable electronics and power everything from 24V. My point exactly. But if you do a small calculation and take 0,5 W/cm^2 as basis you would quickly come to the conclusion that 200x200mm would pretty much be the limit because of the high current. So I was wondering how commercial 3D printers areby icefire - General
So, back to the subject, I guess no one is in favor of a dc step up converter in combination of the PSU. The other way around may be a better alternative (24V PSU with a dc step down converter) so this is probably the better way to go. About the heated bed itself, if 0,5W/cm^2 is a decent value for a fast heated bed, this would mean that no heated bed bigger than 200x200mm could be powered direcby icefire - General
QuoteDjDemonD So the device you show above is a step up transformer 12v dc to 24v dc? Yes, it is. The idea would be to do something like this: What you suggest with an automotive relay or a solid state relay is basically the same with the additional advantage that I am not pulling that much current through the RAMPS. My question is if I could avoid using two separate power supplies and use theby icefire - General
So I want to upgrade my heated bed so that I can print bigger objects (current build platform is just 200 x 200mm) My current setup includes a PCB bed heater and a 12V computer PSU that has two 12V rails - V1 and V2. I use V1 for the heated bed (11A input on the RAMPS) and V2 for everything else (5A input). However, the new heated bed I would like to use is this one - which needs 24V because itby icefire - General
What firmware are you using? I had a similar problem with Repetier until I reflashed it... Also try a different slicer...by icefire - General
In case anyone is wondering - problem solved. Tried a different roll of PLA from a different supplier.by icefire - General
Nope. It is my first and for now only roll of PLA...by icefire - General
This is correct. A few months ago I had a bowden setup and had 4,5 mm retraction. But now the question is how to get rid of the nasty strings.by icefire - General
Quoteaussiephil Missing info from the post, extruder hot end and nozzle size Genuine e3d V6, nozzle size 0,3mm Quotestephenrc Photos not working. Fixed them, thanks Quotestephenrc With your E3DV6, don't use more than 2mm retraction or it can jam. I have upgraded the e3d cooling and bigger retraction is no problem. However, I just tried higher retraction rates more or less out of desperatioby icefire - General
So after a few months of ABS printing I decided to try mastering PLA as well. I made myself a small fan mount for a 40mm fan and gave it a go: (Image is a bit blurry because I took the photo while printing. I am going to change the design of the fan mount so that I have a cooling stream of air from the back side as well). The one thing I can't get going are the retraction settings. With ABS,by icefire - General
Well, I can confirm that the printer works fine now (haven't done anything). The LCD flickers sometimes but rarely. The 5V regulator or the board itself doesn't show any signs of damage and the issues I described in my first post are gone.... but where did the bang come from? Given the fact that I found a very cheap authentic arduino on ebay I ordered it just to be on the safe side, but this oneby icefire - General
that I will do. However, now the printer seems to work fine.. I even managed to print some small parts. Nevertheless, the voltage regulator has not survived the incident undamaged - if the usb is not connected the LCD screen flickers which to my understanding would mean that the 5V output is not stable. My arduino/ramps is mounted in a not-so-easy-to-access casing under the printer so I haven'tby icefire - General
Well I am going to further investigate later today but... If the 5V voltage regulator is damaged, how is it possible that the printer works at all? Yesterday I couldn't find out for how long but still... Could it be damaged in such a way that the printer functions just for a certain time? Apart from that, should I focus just on the arduino or is there a possibility that the RAMPS got damaged tooby icefire - General