Quotecozmicray I guess I don't know what your "printer" is? Does it have Three axes moved by stepper motors, controlled by a controller. A "printer" with only a moveable Z axis? Is that really a printer? X and Y moved by corvette engines on chains? The board you got I call a GRBL board one like it controls my CNC router X, Y and Z (spindle up down, or laser ON/OFF) Via GRBL firmware I useby Cmmain - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Quotecozmicray Once again I am doing a project ---- here is no information but I can't wire and know nothing --- please design and do project for me!! It would be nice to know what your stepper is going to do? Does it need a lot of power, high current? What CNC shield? The supplier of shield doesn't help at all? Are you going to use a special firmware / software to run project? GRBL ---by Cmmain - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thank you for saving me some trouble, I had no idea. What about if I use an arduino nano on a v4 CNC shield? The same power socket as the R3 is on the v4 CNC shield. Would that be able to work?by Cmmain - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I'm looking for a simple way to power my project. It just has one step motor and is controlled by an Uno R3 and a CNC shield with a polulu. Currently I use a 550w ATX power supply that I cut the wires of and attached to the CNC shield. I need a simpler power supply that I can just plug into the power supply slot in the Uno R3. I'd rather not cut anymore wires or do any wiring myself, mainly foby Cmmain - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteDejay Well if you can program a bit you could try adapt something like marlin. Or just use the gcode interpreter in marlin. The inverse kinematic code for the meArm is here: int b = sqrt ((x * x) + (z * z)); // b = distance from the origin to the start of the gripper //Serial.write(b); float q1 = atan2( x, z ); // q1 = angle between the horizontal and the line bby Cmmain - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
QuoteVDX ... you'll need a software or converter which will import G-code (generated for FDM-printing) and control you roboter accordingly - there should be some programs around for Mitsubishi robots too, as this is a common problem ... Do have any suggestions for software to convert G-code to control a robot arm? Or know of any existing firmware?by Cmmain - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
QuoteDejay Not what you asked but I just had to share it I just bought the small (tiny) kit for a servo driven robot arm, the meArm. For 33£ / 50€ I simply could not resist! The plans are on thingieverse and there are also bigger 3D printed versions of it (see comments). The design of the arm seems to be rather smart, the servos / steppers are on the base not on the arm etc. Not clue if a repraby Cmmain - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
I'm looking to build something similar, first on a small robot arm, then build a very large one or use an existing robot arm. Can you please share your firmware? Or share how to convert gcode to be printable on a robot arm? I would really appreciate it! Thank you!by Cmmain - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Hola, So I've decided to build a frame for a 12"x12" heated bed, instead of the 18"x18" heated bed. Here is the draft: (the 2 bars going across the front is the x-carriage) In addition to the corner supports, I'll put a corner bracket in each 90degree corner to keep it extra tight. This version has an 18" z build, but I think I'll lower it because I'll never print something 18" tall. Or willby Cmmain - General
Thanks for all of your thoughts and suggestions. I'm gonna make another basic sketch that includes the 45degree supports and corner brackets that you all mentioned. I'm also going to consider a 12"x12" inch version, because as Alan Richard commented, Where am I gonna put it? And enclosing it is a different story. Another reason for the 12" version, is that I'm strict with myself about not leaby Cmmain - General
I was planning to rebuild my Makerfarm i3v frame to an aluminum extrusion frame from the wooden frame. Then I found this 18"x18" heated bed on ebay and I decided to experiment and remake my i3v into a large build-size printer instead. The Makerfarm is the only printer I've built so I thought I'd just make a bigger scale frame so the 18" heated bed would fit. Below is the basic frame design usiby Cmmain - General
Hola, thanks for the suggestions, Would two SSRs work? I feel like that's safer. I won't be using both beds most of the time so I guess I'll leave 1 turned off while I do most of my printing and use PID unless I'm using both beds.by Cmmain - General
I have a makerfarm 10" i3v and I want to change the frame to an aluminum extension box and extend the print area. Something like this: in this version they use 4 heatbeds to make a large square area. I just want to use an additional 10" heat bed to add to mine to make a rectangular 20"x10" print area. I found this 18"x18" heatbed I still want the 20"x10" version though. My question is howby Cmmain - General