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Here's what I made, here's a photo, and here's a link to the [[page]] on RepRaps wiki!
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Re: Help needed with starting Gcode easy for you - 4 years ago
I don't know if that is your particular printers correct commands, they look fine though. Is the part of the sub-program that commands motion missing? In other words, on most stuff, you would have a axis call, a feed rate and distance to go to make it move. It might be G01 to start a feed rate (Gzero1) X 2.5 distance F200 for whatever federate in the correct measuring system for your machine. Gby kengineer - General
Re: An open source kiln as part fo the RepRap project? - 5 years ago
MKSA, Thanks for chiming in about what is possible. Induction heating can be dangerous, like printing, or working with electronics or machines. Anyone interested in learning more about induction heating may enjoy this link: One reason I seldom post is that, those who do not know what they are talking about or understand the topic, feel as though they should post. Example: "I really don'tby kengineer - General
Re: An open source kiln as part fo the RepRap project? - 5 years ago
I have used induction heaters in the past and I think a great way to heat something quickly is with induction heating. The link is for a really cheap component that could be used as part of a heater or a toy heater. There are complete units that are also available. They could be used to generate heat for burn out, or melt metals, including stainless steel if you size everything correctly.by kengineer - General
Re: my rotary extruder 1 drive upto 4 hotends - 6 years ago
WOW, you have really developed that idea well. I am sure you are proud of getting it working. Very nice work, you must have put a lot of thought and trial and error into it. It reminds me of a revolver, maybe call it dirty Harry, or peacemaker? A team of designers could smooth out the bumps, maybe throw in a circuit board, more logic and really complicate it, but you have a working unit. Greaby kengineer - General
Re: printing terrain 3d model? - 6 years ago
I changed to foxfire and it worked for me.by kengineer - General
Re: printing terrain 3d model? - 6 years ago
Thanks for the comment, I have searched my computer and find no files, beginning to think that I have a setting or firewall or popup blocker that is keeping it out. If I at least got a poor file I could move on, but nothing? It seems to be generating a file, but I do not receive it or any confirmation.by kengineer - General
printing terrain 3d model? - 6 years ago
I ran across a website that converts terrain to an .STL file, unfortunately, it does not work for me. Has anyone else been able to use this? I get it to the area I want, then hit convert, but I get no file or clue where to look for the .STLby kengineer - General
Re: Nozzle Size vs print speed - 6 years ago
The wonder of area versus diameter. A .8mm hole has about 4 times as much area as a .4mm hole. A .8Ø hole would extrude 4X the material as a .4Ø hole. If you used a 1mm hole it would have over 6.2x volume!by kengineer - General
Re: Cura Not doing model properly. - 6 years ago
That sounds like the expected result of vase mode.by kengineer - General
Re: Hom Many 3D Printers Do You Think a School Should Have? - 6 years ago
Well, The cat's out of the bag, the school has no money or desire. If you are really interested and feel (as I do) that it would light creative fires for the youth, try an advisory board thing, talk to the district, offer to teach or demonstrate, or get donations or grants from local companies that may be interested in future employees that have a basic understanding of manufacturing and desigby kengineer - General
Re: Hom Many 3D Printers Do You Think a School Should Have? - 6 years ago
OK, 6. Three should be fully built Prusa MK3 printers and three should be kits. No reason for 6, but with no information on how many students, I like 6. The three kits should be built by the students in tech or manufacturing and the 3 fully built ones should be used by the design focused students. Once the 3 kits are completed, they should start fabricating from scratch. Throw in a half dozby kengineer - General
Re: Printer fire hazard - 6 years ago
OK, your printer is inside a metal cabinet, but it may catch on fire? Before starting the occasional overnight print, throw a chunk of dry ice in a poorly sealed cooler into the bottom of the cabinet and tape up the door. This should allow the dry ice to off gas the co2, and the cooler will moderate the change in state. This should provide an inert environment. You can never be too safe. I doby kengineer - General
Re: Temperature vs. Print Quality (ABS) - 6 years ago
Some of your difference in quality could be from the ABS not having time to set up on the tiny layers. Two ways to improve it are 1) slow it down to 10 seconds per layer so the last layer is frozen before the next goes on 2) turn on your fan at some level. lowering ABS temp could hurt layer adhesion/strength and eliminate the benefit of using the ABS. I always print ABS at about 240° C. My prinby kengineer - General
Re: DIY DYE (Help Wanted) - 6 years ago
I was watching my printer using white filament recently and noticed a sharpie marker laying next to it, because I had nothing better to do, I held the marker on the in-going filament. The part changed color to the marker color. I thought of splitting the marker open to liberate the internal ink cartridge and slicing it to place around the ingoing filament, then, I lost interest and moved on toby kengineer - General
Re: Printer fire hazard - 6 years ago
You don't have to invent everything. I always try and look for things that already exist. or Both under $100 and a higher probability that they would work than something I cobbled without the testing needed to insure function. How about a large plastic bag of sand suspended over the printer that would melt and spill in a fire? How about a smoke detector in the enclosure to warn you?by kengineer - General
Re: Threaded Inserts nuts - 6 years ago
I try to use common nuts if I want durable threads. I model a hex cavity and thruhole feature then press in the nut, it works like an insert, but is very easy to source. If I needed to, I could print the cavity, drop one in and print over it like mentioned above. I try and design so that the nut is a slight press fit into the hex cavity and the force is pulling the nut into the cavity. Instby kengineer - General
Re: A challenge? - 7 years ago
Add heat. If the material that the nozzle is tungsten carbide, there is no way that a steel drill bit got into it. You must be jammed on plastic. Plastic melts way below the tungsten. heat it up, push it out. If it is a tungsten alloy like Anviloy, it could be cut/damaged with steel. Either way, you can't melt the nozzle, only the plastic.by kengineer - General
Re: Got great results with a different print surface material 
- 7 years ago
I have been using a sheet of garolite 10 for a few weeks and really like it. I have a substrate of 6mm mic-6 type cast tool plate, and used a thin sheet of 3M adhesive to bond the sheet. I scuffed the sheet print surface with 600 grit silicone carbide paper and swab with acetone/abs occasionally. The only print I had come off was due to bad settings leaving material that the head hit. The PLAby kengineer - General
Re: Orphan printer bed material and mounting system?? - 7 years ago
So, I pulled the trigger on 2 sheets of Garolite 10 on Ebay. the cost was about 15 per, with about 15 for shipping. I also ordered the 5 pack of adhesive sheets so I can make a mistake or two and still get something to work. I have always liked the current material and believe that this is equivalent. I am trying to come up with a way to get the current delaminated sheet off the Mic-6 bed. Siby kengineer - General
Re: Problem with megatronics 2 electronics - 7 years ago
Roberts clif, I tweaked the current adjustment down until the z axis still ran, just barely, then increased slightly. (seat of the pants adjustment) and the next thing I printed showed a thermal image of 150° f with no dimming, missed steps or other issues. I also spotted another very hot pololu drive on the Y axis and backed that pot off too, while the machine still moved well. I hope this dby kengineer - General
Re: Problem with megatronics 2 electronics - 7 years ago
Roberts clif, I will get a shot on youtube as soon as the issue returns. Usually when printing ABS with a hot enclosure and bed, after a few things. I am using PLA right now, and it seems fine. I was thinking about it possibly being heat related so I got out my thermal imager, scanned the enclosure and found a couple of hot spots. One hot spot is the Z axis pololu drive. It has been as hot asby kengineer - General
Problem with megatronics 2 electronics - 7 years ago
I don't know where to start with this request for knowledge for a problem I have, if this is the wrong area, I am sorry. I have a 300mm machine from a company that folded during start up. It is off the shelf parts and I can do great printing work on it. It was made by Indimension3d it was a prototype of the failed Ideator12. I have many hundreds of things printed on it. Recently I started havinby kengineer - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Quotegsport Quotekengineer Mechanics of the machine aside, what about the thermal expansion of the materials? If you think of a .5 meter object, depending on the exact material you select, it may be quite a bit longer (thermal expansion) at the temp it comes out of the nozzle than at room temp. If the material you select has a thermal coefficient vastly different from the bed material or at rooby kengineer - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Mechanics of the machine aside, what about the thermal expansion of the materials? If you think of a .5 meter object, depending on the exact material you select, it may be quite a bit longer (thermal expansion) at the temp it comes out of the nozzle than at room temp. If the material you select has a thermal coefficient vastly different from the bed material or at room temp, you may print a potby kengineer - General
Orphan printer bed material and mounting system?? - 7 years ago
I have an orphan printer that I got from a company (Indimension3D) that collapsed and folded. I was lucky to get much less of a printer than promised, compared to those who got nothing. The printer had many problems, but I was able to fall back on my tool making, tinkering and thermal control background to work thru them. This board helped more than any other resource! It is currently a fineby kengineer - General
Re: How to get Nylon to stick to a printplate? - 7 years ago
Maybe this? I think my printer has this for a bed and after "seasoning" it for a while, it seems to work. Mcmaster seems to have a good selection of size and thickness at a reasonable price. I copied this from an Ebay ad for nylon filament: taulman3D has some of the most interesting filaments for engineering use. Taulman nylon filaments can be used for medical, casting and functional proby kengineer - Printing
Re: Filament diameter compensation, % of area? - 7 years ago
I make filament corrections by altering the extrusion factor. I didn't download the spreadsheet, but was curious if the sheet is using the filament difference in diameter or difference in area to compensate ? Why does that matter? If you compare two sizes, one is 1.75Ø and the other is 1.65Ø, (about .004" difference) the diameter of the smaller is 94% of the larger, but the area, thus the maby kengineer - General
Re: Best Dust Collection System for Fab Lab? - 7 years ago
Collect every bit of particulate at the source. So for the sawdust, plan on a dust collector, maybe a cyclonic unit with plenty of volume and good grounding between each component to prevent that nasty static discharge thru people or things. It is great to dump out of the workspace, but there goes your climate and you need make up air to replace it. I have an Oneida unit that exhausts back into tby kengineer - General
Re: M3 grub screws don't fit - 7 years ago
Find a new hardware store. Hardware like you describe isn't rare or hard to find, if your store doesn't have them, move along to one that does. I like the idea of using a regular screw to identify the pitch. Could it be SAE (English) 6-32, 4-40? The shorter the hole, the finer screw you need to use. Tapping a bigger hole may not work because the edges of the screw could interfere with the raby kengineer - General
Re: Engineering type question give up on the cheapest - 7 years ago
My first advice is to give up on getting the cheapest thing you can. focus on getting what you need and then consider the price. There have been several suggestions that may help. You could learn the tolerance specifications referenced by Hairyscreech, they insure you get what you asked for, but not what you may want or want to pay for. Think of getting your car repaired, do you specify everythby kengineer - General
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