Those laser safe acrylic are really expensive and i was worried i would need one. Glad to know i can use regular plexiglass. About the light emited while cutting. Ive seen that in many vids and it does look bright. Looking at that can affect vision then right? Can it be ignored or do i need glasses for that anyway? Or will darker acrlyic do just fine? I doubt UV will wholly blocked with simpleby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thats a relief! I was worried i might be wrong about what i read i will be using 3mm window since thats the smallest i found already cut to sizeby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi again. I know that you need safety glasses for laser cutter. its a must. now what id like to figure out is what type of sheet of acrylic should I buy to have as a viewing window for the laser cutter I'm building. ive read that a simple piece of acrylic would do the job but id like more input from others here. is theres a # to the type of acrylic I should use specifically. my laser cutter is aby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
gotcha, I was gonna buy some Cu but after reading for a bit I noticed that most machines use Si. plus theyre significantly cheaper. any thoughts? 20mm will be the ones I'm goin for along with some znse lens. should I buy a 50w tube instead of the 40w I was going for?. ive been reading that companies inflate the price just because the tube can hit 50w despite it being damaging to the tube in theby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
hmm well then, I guess 25mm mirrors is what I should go for then right? I do need it mainly for cutting although engraving would be nice later on with the same machine. what size lens would you go for? any recommendations? thanksby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
heya, quick question, what difference does lens diameter make in the laser cutter? there are 25mm and 20mm for the mounts. I was thinking of getting a copper gold coated lense for durability and decent reflection. and for the lens, I'm not sure just yet. also, 2.5 focal length seems perfect for 3-5mil plexiglass cutting as well as decent engraving. -Daveby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Yea good trick for getting those pieces cut equally. I was wondering what would be a good method of getting them all the same size. And im thinking of using sand paper to keep the cut ends smooth and not jaggedby davedavedave - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Based on the replies ive decided to go ahead amd buy a miter saw amd order a carbide blade. Those chop saw blades are really expensive! At least with a miter saw i will get my money's worth EDIT: 2 days after this post was answered ive decided to buy a table saw and non ferrous carbide tipped blade. seems like I can get more bang for buck on that.by davedavedave - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi, Ive been wanting to cut some 8020 with my 14" chop saw. but am not sure what blade to use. ive been reading about some bladfe with 108 teeth that can do the job with minimal or no lubricant if not forced of course. whats the best way to do it with a chop saw? anyone know of any blades? for non ferrous of course. thnksby davedavedave - Extruded Aluminum Frames
hah yes I am literally spending every minute of free time on my 3d printer. its almost done(just needs calibration). and I will do the same with the laser cutter. I have not bought any parts yet. I want to understand how the laser cutter works before I can buy the things I need. that is how it was for the 3d printer build. so no worries there. I want to get ahead of myself but age has taught me bby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Oh bo worries the only plastic is the mount where the laser will be placed onto. The laser i am buying will def come with its own metal parts. So the water goes into the tube itself? If so, then i wonder how the particles are excited in the water and then fed to the laser head. Unless im wrong. And misunderstood. Also when you say "Same for the adjustments, you don't just want to be able to tilby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Your build sounds like its going to be pretty rad, best of luck with that. So the only thin i would have left to learn is how to commect the water pump to the tube. Do you have link? Whenever i search google i get other results that dont have anything to do with the cooling method. The bed will run on ramps in the z axis now that u mention focusing. I will definately buy the head with the mirrby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Wil keep all that in mind thabks for the heads up. I have a few quick questions. I was looking into the small fish pump as acooling unit, does the hose go attached to the laser head? Also the laser heads ive seen on ebay come with mirror mounts and mounts, can i just buy the head without mount and 3d print my own. Or are the mirror mount and mount the same? You mentioned longer focal length,by davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi, I just finished building a 3d printer and want to take on the laser cutter challenge. it will be completely my own design so I have to buy parts since it wont be a kit. I was just curious as to what I am missing on my list. I have a spare Arduino + ramps 1.4 laying around with 3 extra stepper drivers luckily enough for me. so far ive compiled a list and looked at tons of of guides but what Iby davedavedave - Laser Cutter Working Group
Heya. I ended up finding the out the problems to my issue about 2 days ago. The reason it was going slow is because I was using pronterface and the federate was about 100mm per MIN which is really slow. I have Dust(another forum member) to thank for that little tip. so that pretty much fixed the problem. now I just have to make sure the machine is moving the exact number of steps. whats great isby davedavedave - CoreXY Machines
If that is indeed the issue then man have i wasted hours of time looking for a solution. I will definately do all that in a few hours when i wake up. Also, what worries me is that the printer was also slow during the RampsTest. Hopefully youre right with the software being slow. Youve been right the whole time so i wont doubt what youve said Thanks!by davedavedave - Reprappers
Hi again dust. so I'm pretty much finished with basic wiring but have come across a problem with the XY speeds. since I am using the DRV8825 I used the numbers in the reprap calculator which were 160 for Xand Y. the thing is that whenever I tell the printer to move 10 or 100mm In a certai direction, it takes forever to reach the destination. it does manage to get there give or take 1 or 2mm extraby davedavedave - Reprappers
EDIT: Ok finally got my printer moving smoothly. before it was all weird and janked up. but after messing with numbers on the marlin I got moving how I wanted it. now this is what I might need some advice on. so far it homes properly on the XY axes although it hits X endstop then travels about 40mm opposite of the wall it hit and then goes back and hits it again and finally stops. then it does tby davedavedave - CoreXY Machines
Ok, I will work on those motors today to get them working and not heating up. well the motors didn't heat up at all last night but the drivers did. I will lower the voltage. it is a Bowden setup as to reduce the load on the extruder carriage. I have been reading about repetier and will do that for my next corexy build. I am also going to buy either a 32bit board. leaning towards the azteeg andby davedavedave - CoreXY Machines
Hey thanks for the extremely helpful and in depth post. I will be reading and rereading that until everything sinks in. I didn't take into account the thermal spread and lack thereof issue. Its pretty hard to get airflow under it due to capacitors and pins in the way but I will still add that extra fan(luckily I bought quite a few just in case). I will remove the lCD screen because I do not realby davedavedave - CoreXY Machines
Hi, so I decided I wanted to build a printer. I bought a lot of material over the last year and finally got down to finishing the design and building it. I can put it together now if I wanted too but before I did that I wanted to check movements in pronterface. before I get into the issue I will tell you my equipment 12V 30A PSU Nema 17's x 5 (1 extruder 4 axes: 2Z 1X 1Y) Ramps 1.4 + Arduino mby davedavedave - CoreXY Machines
that's good to know. endstops now installed. thanks!by davedavedave - Reprappers
One quick thing. The end stop has 4 pins ok it. The ranps has 3 pins still of course. The 2 mid are ground?by davedavedave - Reprappers
thanks, glad to hear a definite answer to a question that's been worrying me for some time. I'm one step closer to finishing all the wiring. just need to solder up a few more things, create a few connections here and there and it will be ready for calibration tests. that will probably take hours to since this is my first build. at least I have you guys to count on.by davedavedave - Reprappers
they were at like 2.5V :O wow. well now theyre set to ~.57 that seems like the norm for most drivers. once I begin calibration I will probably adjust according. anything I should know? this is going to be a corexy from the ground up. I want to learn Arduino, and will but for now I am using marlin until I can better grasp it. even then, I probably wont be able to write that much code anytime sooby davedavedave - Reprappers
definitely wouldn't want that!by davedavedave - Reprappers
that's what was thinking as well, I was too afraid to measure while it was on due to it possibly overheating before I had the chance to change the setting. I will do that. I'm just looking for my screwdriver. the static is gone, I guess it was due to the heat maybeby davedavedave - Reprappers
oh man! wow. I probably fried 2 trying this. oh well. man I will test this now. thanks so much for saving me from frying my last board. I will get back as soon as i test this Edit: Ok I tested the board again, with the same stepper driver (despite you telling me to switch) my apologies. but since I may have fried the board and the stepp. I was like what the hey! why not, luckily it worked. the sby davedavedave - Reprappers
So here they are. let me know what you think is wrong. also, I did check the wirings to see if they paired. using the continuity option on the DMM. I just don't know if it matters what order they go too. I do know the pairs though for each of my motors. thanks also, I have nema 17's. is that what your asking? or for the drivers? because its been almost a year since I bought them so I cant rememby davedavedave - Reprappers
I fried a stepper motor driver****** lol! I think its because I turned the potentiometer and did it without the multimeter. so 1 min later BZZZT and a tuft of smoke. I was reading something and it freaked me out. I switched off the psu and looked at the driver. it had a black smudge on a pin. maybe where it fried? anyways. the motor is still not moving. I only have the motor, step driver, ramps aby davedavedave - Reprappers