Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The 0.2 looks really nice. Since you are using > different fans then I supplied with my kits you > may have to adjust the min fan speed in the > firmware and also adjust the fan settings in > Slic3r to get the cooling enough for the 0.1. Also > depending on how small you printed them slowing > down may bby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Where-are-they-now update: I kept having all sorts of trouble with the X, Y, and E motor gears. Turns out I was running too much current into my motors unnecessarily, overheating them after a while. This caused the gear tension screws to warp outwards. I reprinted all the motor gears after finding settings that resulted in good tooth fill and 3 perimeters. New gears, lower current, and a littby pokey9000 - Tantillus
I did the same on my Prusa motors. I spent a long time getting the shafts true again using a pair of locking pliers. I have my least straight motors on the Y axis with only zip tie supports and the straightest on the extruder. In the 7 months I've had it running I haven't had a bit of trouble because of the motors.by pokey9000 - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes and no. All of them except the two in the > front posts are from the 3 piece 200 x 200 design. > But the two in the front two post are needed since > they are the only way of connecting the posts > together. Ok, sorry I wasn't clear on that. Wiki'd.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > PxT Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > For > > the vertical (corner) connectors, which size > bolts > > should I be using there? > > I believe those may be missing. I think someone > else that built the printed case mentioned it and > I forgot untilby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Way to go! I'm glad to see someone else building a printed case Tantillus. Good color scheme too... I'd updated the printed case section on the wiki a while back to cover a few issues I had. Please take a look at that as well as my build log thread in this forum for some tips. The printed build is surprisingly similar to the laser cut build with the exceptions being the extruder mounting, faby pokey9000 - Tantillus
These forums tend to be my go-to resource in researching a problem I may be having. Unfortunately hitting the right search terms is difficult and the descriptions of solutions tend to be vague or "Nevermind, I fixed it.". In the XDA-Developers community, it's common to have sticky posts in forums with a list of problems, procedures, etc. A community member is responsible for maintaining thatby pokey9000 - General
In my experience Makerbot introduced 3D printing to the hacker/maker community as a tool and not an end unto itself. Until I saw the Cupcake, my only knowledge of FDM printing at all was the Darwin, and the opinions I'd heard about Darwin (and by association all non-professional 3D printers) led me to believe that it was that it was very experimental and not intended for the casual hobbyist. Thby pokey9000 - General
The mirror imaging shouldn't happen. Are your motors going in the right direction, I.e. is XY home at the back right corner closest to where the Bowden enters the case?by pokey9000 - Tantillus
- sorry, had to delete offending content - please, no jokes with the Holocaust ....aaaand Godwin'd.by pokey9000 - General
Installed my 40mm fans in the new printed case brackets and they fit perfectly. I had to do some hackery as I can't make the heated bed channel on the Sanguinololu PWM, just turn on and off. I lifted the pin out of the socket for the heated bed (D12) and soldered a jumper between that and D4 which is the channel I use on my Prusa, connecting the heated bed FET to D4 instead. Now I can scale thby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Quick update: I solved a few issues I've been having over the last few days: My extruder stopped feeding partway through my third print. It jammed inside the Bowden, necessitating tugging hard at the end of the removed tube until the filament came out. I had used the 6mm x 3mm tubing as I plan to use Ultimachine filament only due to its consistency (2.85-2.90 perfectly round), so I was surprisby pokey9000 - Tantillus
The current should be fine on all the motors. I ran this Sanguinololu with drivers on my Prusa with identical model motors for about a month with no issues. Maybe the extruder needs to be cranked up as it's geared lower than on Prusa. I did try pushing the gears as close together as possible then rotated them through high spots in the gear before fully tightening the motors. There is no playby pokey9000 - Tantillus
You can use the free Netfabb Basic (netfabb.com) to orient them. Just load the part up, fix it if necessary, then using the "align to bottom plane" tool double click the bottom face, and export to STL. I had meant to commit the ones I fixed to github but I lost them when I had to do a Windows reinstall. Be aware that some of the pieces have overhangs going in opposite directions that make chooby pokey9000 - Tantillus
It lives!!! I figured I'd go for broke and get my Tantillus printing before finishing the last few details. I cut up a mirror for the glass plate, which happens to also be my first experience with cutting glass. I was too impatient to print and wire up the fan mounts, so I twisty-tied a 120mm PC fan to the side of the case temporarily. My first print, the calibration block, came out fine. Myby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have studied your pictures and video and can not > see anything wrong. I am going to have to go and > take the blame here and say I must have moved > something during all those revisions and my > printed machine was built with a hand cut and > drilled build surface. The strange thing is on my > first lby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > This is most likely because the upper and/or lower > Z brackets are not in the center as they should > be. Try loosening the upper bolts and sliding the > bracket to the left. The bracket is as far to the left as possible. I just removed both plates and measured them to match the STL that contains them (Aby pokey9000 - Tantillus
My Tantillus now moves! Video here. The electronics need to be mounted and there's some cleanup to do, but the hotend gets hot and all the motors move. As you can see the new style XY ends are working great and haven't cracked through a number of tightenings. I ran into one problem though: the limits of the hotend travel aren't even with the build glass area. At the left corners, the hotby pokey9000 - Tantillus
That's exactly what I use. Try wiping it down with some isopropyl before printing. I can't get cheap filament to stick to fresh tape otherwise.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Lisa M Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Well my rubber washer didn't work either. *sigh* > I'm sure I don't understand the physics ...but > apparently it matters that the cable is going the > same way as it is on the left side. > > I guess the cable from the back should be looped > and the cable coming from the front of the machine > shoby pokey9000 - Tantillus
It needs to be tightly secured. The bottom line is that the printer will consider the point at which the endstop switch activates as home. If that point moves, then the axis home will move along with it.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
cstudio Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No I didn't use sanguino folder which came with > Marlin. What should I do with it? Copied it to > Audrino/hardware folder? Yes. After doing this you should see options for Sanguino in the Tools->Board menu. Choose the one that matches the AVR you have installed after you have loaded the project. > > Iby pokey9000 - Sanguino(lolu)
Yonderboy Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I have burnt out one resistor in my two years > of > > Printing. It is possible that the resistor was > too > > lose and not conducting enough heat. This > causes > > the resistor to o way above the required > > temperature to transfer enough heat. This would > > also explainby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The XYends are easier to print now. They no longer > use zip ties to hold in the bushing. They are a > little longer in one direction (still fit the > printed case and does not lower any clearances). > The nut traps opening is now from the end so the > perimeters are continuous which makes them much > stby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Thanks Sublime. I'll focus on something else for the time being. If you're redesigning the XY ends, consider a little more clearance in the slots for the zip ties. I cracked the thin outer shell on the one I just reprinted using some zip ties I had as opposed to the ones you sent. These ties are the same dimensions except for being a little thicker. The shell doesn't look to have any structuby pokey9000 - Tantillus
My laser cut carriage mid pieces came in on Tuesday, and I've been busy since... The carriage mid is a little loose on the J-Head as-is, but a couple of Kapton pieces like in the directions and it's nice and snug. Here's the carriage before installation: My first attempt at stringing up the carriage ended in a cracked right X end. I've been using a ratcheting screwdriver with some SAE hexby pokey9000 - Tantillus
ajayre Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When people were first buying dot matrix printers > they were more interested in their new ability to > print rather than the quality, speed and size. > > The key limitation I see is the complexity of > operation. Likewise, people print photos on inkjets despite the much higher per-page cost and lower qualby pokey9000 - General
Congratulations! I'm itching to see the Tantillus do high frequency infill like honeycomb or narrow rectilinear paths. My Prusa sounds like a paint shaker when doing these. Now to finish mine...by pokey9000 - Tantillus
I've been slowly working through my checklist the last few days. Motor harnesses are made and tested, endstop is wired and tested, clearances cut in the bed for the motors, bed bolts replaced with 1.5" cap screws. I bought a "chocolate bar" terminal block for the hotend as the Sanguinololu terminates wiring in KK crimp connectors and not screw terminals like RAMPS. If I crimped a connector toby pokey9000 - Tantillus
ernchesto Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So now that the motor has tested to be responsive > when not meshed with the drive gear, I'm able to > nudge the X around thru pronterface. The issue is > that it seems to either get hung up from time to > time - which I'm suspecting will be overcome if I > increase the pots - is this a correct assumptionby pokey9000 - Tantillus