Previously I used Pronterface, but I've moved entirely to OctoPrint for both my printers, one hosted on a Raspberry Pi and the other on a generic "MK802" A10 based stick. Having a web-based GUI lets me upload and set up my prints from my desktop across the room while using a tablet that I can set next to the printer to jog the axes for bed leveling, priming, and ultimately starting the print. Oby pokey9000 - General
I've tried slic3r on a Beaglebone (same core but at 720MHz) and it's unreasonably slow. But OctoPrint works well on Debian for the A10 (MK802 stick), much better than on the Raspberry Pi.by pokey9000 - Slic3r
With the extra clearance afforded by the open frame, you might be able to modify the XY ends to have built in tensioners. IMO the biggest pain in building a Tantillus is setting up the cables, and with the extra room to work stringing should be easier too. That being said, I haven't had to retension since I replaced my last broken end in August, and I've put more than a few pounds of filament tby pokey9000 - Tantillus
I can confirm this, especially for the extruder. 90% of my initial troubles with Tantillus were due to slippage.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
For the last two weeks I've been using uncut white vinegar on a hot HBP, both bare glass and Kapton. PLA has been sticking to it just as well as it had with acetone. It leaves behind some solids when it dries so I find I have to follow each cleaning with a wipe down with a dry piece of paper towel or crumpled paper. It's a small inconvenience to keep volatiles out of the house though.by pokey9000 - Printing
Based on my experience with ~ 1 year with a Sanguinololu: Pros: -CHEAP (PCB can be eBayed for around $10, BOM from Mouser can be $10-$60 depending on your junk bin and options) -Can save a few bucks eliminating components you don't need (extra 12V headers, microstep jumpers, inline Berg instead of Molex KK, FTDI if you already have a USB-3.3V serial converter) -Actively supported by most firmwarby pokey9000 - General
I bought a few 12"x12" 3mm thick mirror tiles and glass cutter from the hardware store for about $10, watched a few Youtube videos on glass cutting, measured and marked a few times over, and got to cutting. It took me a few tries before I figured out how to get clean breaks, but eventually got a piece that fits the bed with little room to spare.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I find it amazing how the prints can improve by > simply changing slicers. I thought the quality of > prints was already at the top of FFF (FDM) > printing and to see them improve like this I am > really happy. > After crispy1's comments, I think I'll be trying Cura this weekend time permitting. > Yoby pokey9000 - Tantillus
I'll admit I've been skeptical about the claims of all of Slic3r's troubles, attributing many of my subpar prints to PEBKAC errors. Two prints after installing Kisslicer and I'm a convert. There's some blobbing around the chin, which was cured with later overhangs just by slowing down a bit. Other than that I used the stock profiles. As promised, my profiles are attached. As for my bed lifby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Interesting, Ca you attach your new files here for > others? Also so I can see the difference in the > encoding so maybe I can provide them correctly. > When I get home I'll post what I have. All I did was unpack the .zip you provided to my Linux box and run "unix2dos *ini". This fixes up the line termiby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Tried this last night, and found that the Windows version of Kissslicer bombs if you attempt to edit any of the configurations in the Tantillus files. Running the config files through unix2dos first solved this. No results to speak of yet as I forgot to set my filament diameter and it was getting too late for another run. Off topic: Sublime, I noticed that in one of the photos above shows someby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Slic3r documentation recommends calibrating this by measuring the expected vs. actual width of a thin wall cube and putting that factor into the extrusion multiplier. It seems to me that this is a faster way to get to the same result (fudge factor applied to e-steps in FW vs in Slic3r).by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Just to be clear, we're talking about non-heated beds, right? Because I haven't had luck with any of the solutions offered here so far on a cold bed. Blue painter's tape cleaned with some alcohol after applying is a sure thing.by pokey9000 - General
Super-Lube silicone / PTFE grease is supposed to be compatible with all plastics, and is even authorized in the US for use in food service equipment. I found some at Harbor Freight, but I've seen it in auto supply shops as well and on Amazon.by pokey9000 - General
Keep in mind that PLA starts to soften around 130F if you intend to use printed objects outdoors.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
You can use a newer Slic3r and export the plate to stl instead of slicing it. Or use the plater in pronterface, though that one is less flexible.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
I run mine with a 12V 220W Dell DA-2 power brick (for some SFF PC thing). I know Sublime recommends 15V for the extra kick to the motors, but so far 12V has been fine for me. I've picked up a couple for ~$20 at Goodwill Computerworks, and they always seem to have a few around. I wind up soldering on my own connectors since the mini-fit jr style it comes with has weird contacts that don't workby pokey9000 - Tantillus
I wonder if recycling plastic might be easier with SLS, where you don't need to be as concerned about the consistency of the plastic.by pokey9000 - General
Hi Joe, good to see another Austinite interested in RepRap. Rostock is a fairly new design, and while a lot of people have made them I'm not sure it's a great first printer. Also they're pretty tall in comparison to their build volume, so even a mini Rostock might not be that portable. If you have access to a laser cutter you could go for a Tantillus, which is compact and fairly cheap to sourcby pokey9000 - General
1mm warp on the base and mid parts seems to be acceptable. The only damage I think it causes is some gaps at the corners when you throw it all together. Like Sublime said it's the top pieces that need to be really flat. However, because they have a larger surface area they should stick a bit better than the others. I printed with a newer Slic3r that includes brim, and between that and an HBPby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Did a print with the 50mm 15cfm fans, and it definitely makes a difference on overhangs. I still need to play with temps and feed rate for small layers, but I am seeing much less curling than before. As a side benefit these sound less grating to me than the lower flow rate 40cfm ones I had on before.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Time didn't permit, but I did SCAD up a 50mm holder this morning that I'll print tonight. These are the fans I bought: Link Depot FAN-5015-B . edit: Printing the 2nd mount now. The first one fits perfectly. SCAD and stl attached. edit 2: Don't print it just yet, Airflow seems to spread too far under the bed when the Z is homed. I'm redoing the mount with the fan 4mm higher (as far as it caby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Hang on tjhj2. Time permitting I'll be trying out 2x 15CFM 50mm fans tonight, and I'll post my results here.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
I thought about throwing some 40mm server fans I have around here in, but I really am enjoying how quiet Tantillus is. I plan to switch from using the heated bed FET for driving my fans to the scheme I use on my Prusa: spare PWM going through a low pass to a Darlington. That's been great at quieting the fans.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Me too. The 2 9CFM 40mm fans I have aren't doing nearly as well as the single one on my Prusa's X carriage. I have 2 15CFM 50mm fans to see if that will make a difference. As far as the ducts, they made no difference for me in print quality.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Teensy 3.0 may use open tools for user code, but I believe it's a development dead end for Reprap purposes. Like the AVR Teensys, it uses a proprietary bootloader. This means that the micro couldn't be integrated into another board and run the same code without some build time differentiation. It would make more sense to use the Arduino Due. As for the Stellaris Launchpad, the libraries and eby pokey9000 - General
PxT Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What are the consequences if the coating gets > scraped off? Mine was a REALLY tight fit and did > end up scraping a bit. If it measures the same as before you put it in, you're fine. Unfortunately the resistor manufacturers don't coat them to the tolerances we'd like. Back on the topic of swapping hotends: I had toby pokey9000 - Tantillus
droftarts Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also, this hot end generally > allows me to extract the filament down to the > nozzle; if I drop the nozzle temperature to 130C > for ABS and 80C for PLA, I can generally pull it > back out from the extruder. I haven't found this > as easy to do with the Reifsnyder and PLA (don't > use ABS in that). Iby pokey9000 - General
Assembly tweaks I don't think Sublime has in his docs: -Pack the top or bottom right Z axis rod holder with something with some give (cut up rubber band, small fabric pieces, etc) to take up slack. Unless the Z rod fits exactly in the Z holders height-wise, the slack will allow the Z endstop to travel up and down, screwing up your Z homing. -Put a flat in your X,Y, and extruder motor shafts.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
PxT Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Forgive my ignorance, but how do I use those files > to get the exact dimensions? How thick should the > material be? I can cut something out of acrylic > or plywood on my table saw and drill the > appropriate holes but I'm not sure how to proceed > just based on those files. I guess I could > assemble evby pokey9000 - Tantillus