theruss007 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'd recommend a Sanguinololu. That's what I'm > going to use. Putting it together wasn't all that > hard(just make sure you check and recheck your > soldering for the FTDI chip, it will save you > alota time trying to figure out what;s wrong), but > I haven't actually tested it's performance when > prby pokey9000 - General
CidVilas Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes microswitches are possible and a simple > modification .... > Default configuration prescribes Hall effect > though. this means you'll have to whip out > sketchup to make the modifications to suit the new > switches. A3144 Hall switch clones (OH3144) are incredibly cheap on eBay. I'm using three of tby pokey9000 - Delta Machines
Using the mod I posted above, the HBP FET can be driven with a PWM output which chops power to the fans with a variable duty cycle allowing you to control the speed. Without the mod, the AVR can only switch the fan off and on (unless you use software PWM, which you don't want to). The M106 Sxx and M107 commands can be used to control the speed. Most slicers can adjust the fan speed as they goby pokey9000 - Tantillus
If you don't plan on a heated bed, you can repurpose the HBP FET to run the fan. What I did was to pull out the AVR, bend pin 18 (HOTBED) out a bit, then reinsert it so that pin sits outside the socket. Then solder a wire on the back of the board between AVR pin 5 (PB4-PWM) and AVR pin 18. Run your fan(s) directly to the HBP connector between the + and - pins. Then configure Marlin to board tby pokey9000 - Tantillus
You can't print on bare glass without a heated bed. That's all I can think of. Is your part warping because it's pulling up the tape, or because it's coming off the tape?by pokey9000 - General
Kind of misleading, eh? It's a 4 motor stepper driver kit. You still need at a minimum some way to sense hotend temperature and switch power to a hotend. The stepper drivers don't stack in their form factor either, so wiring them together and the aforementioned hotend control is up to the buyer. Might as well go for a cheap Chinese RAMPS kit.by pokey9000 - General
JohnSL Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've been looking around for the answer, but > couldn't find it. Does anyone happen to know the > length of the rod/joint assemblies, measured from > the screw hole to screw hole? 150mm.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
Nice work, HaDe! Very clean build. I didn't even realize that it makes more sense to tie the Spectra to the right of the carriage instead of the left as the directions say. Did you need a tap for the push-fit Bowden connectors, or did you self-thread it somehow? I'm stuck figuring out how that's supposed to go together.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
Making some progress on mine. Here are a few tips I've discovered along the way: BOM: -The keystone parts for the top and bottom have only enough clearance for 10mm screws. 12mm will run into the other end of the nut trap. -If you can't find dome or round head screws for the pulleys, 6mm pan head Philips works fine. The 6mm is critical. -If you use 623ZZs for idlers, only an M4 will fit thby pokey9000 - Delta Machines
If you're using the current Marlin, follow the directions in the README.md to install the current Sanguino addons to your Arduino/hardware directory. This has the correct settings for 644p and 1284p at different clock speeds. Upgrading to a modern Arduino tools can't hurt either.by pokey9000 - General
What tools don't you have, and where are you located?by pokey9000 - General
I've built two printers so far with the motors in the first link and they work fine even in an extruder. The only catch is that the shafts are 4mm, so you'll need to make sure your pulleys and extruder gears take that into account.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
I wouldn't mind taking the ball on getting a meetup together. Does anyone have advice on a better place to promote this? These regional boards are too far buried to get the word out.by pokey9000 - Texas, Austin RepRap User Group
Coming along great, Chuck! -local enthusiastby pokey9000 - Tantillus
SusiBiker Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Like others here, very interested if it all pans > out. > > I cannot put this strongly enough - > I *HATE* the cloud processing idea! This. You'll get little commercial buy-in with this model. There are a ton of cloud-based tools like Evernote and Google Docs that I'd love to use on the job that would viby pokey9000 - General
Post more technical information on the material such as composition, recommended extrusion temperature, recommended build platform coating, etc. Then get involved in these forums rather than just posting ads. People here will purchase your filament if they trust both you and your product. It's difficult to trust in your product without additional details or other forum members vouching for yourby pokey9000 - For Sale
novato Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What I wanted was to know how richrap can export > the files to stl. > I can not. > I would like to start using the sketchup program > for my projects. It seems more friendly than > others. Not to be "that guy" but this is the first link when Googling "sketchup stl export". If you have Sketchup 8, the secby pokey9000 - General
Make sure the heatbed is measuring at >1 ohm. The solder mask should protect it, but the small gap around the pad and the untrimmed ends is suspect. If you do resolder it, solder it with the wire stuck straight through and trim it with diagonal cutters. That will at least let you see all the way around the pad and reduce the chance of soldering the solid copper flow.by pokey9000 - General
The endstop pullups on Sanguinololu aren't on the board. The AVR has switchable pullups on the I/O pins, which is why leaving the pin disconnected doesn't help. In Marlin Configuration.h, you need to uncomment "#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS" to make this happen. Also make sure the correct board type is selected (62 if not using external fan control). Not sure about Sprinter.by pokey9000 - Sanguino(lolu)
I'm actually impressed. Closed design or no, they made a completely DFM Mendel inspired printer without stepping on any toes.by pokey9000 - General
How hot are you running your bed during a print? 80C is probably too hot for PLA.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
PVA glue or glue stick too. I sliced my knuckle open last week prying one of the bottom pieces off my glue stick covered bed.by pokey9000 - Delta Machines
Not to necro, but I posted an alternate way to fix this to the wiki. The difference here is that the USB chip will stay alive and available to the host PC even if the printer is off since it lets the FT232RL get power from the USB port while stopping the backfeed problem. This might be better if you're using a host server like OctoPrint that you want to leave running while the printer is off.by pokey9000 - Sanguino(lolu)
I don't think you can go wrong with a MendelMax. Sanguinololu is a good money saver if you're comfortable building it yourself (inclduing programming the AVR bootloader), intend to put a fuse inline with the power supply, and don't plan to use a heatbed. On my Prusa2 I've burned up a couple of the Molex KK connectors even though I have them crimped properly and using appropriate wire. The oneby pokey9000 - General
MPower Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Not many LM6UU around though. Wha? Huh?by pokey9000 - General
If you don't mind some soldering and coding, you could make a thermistor-to-SPI converter with a MAX6682. The format and degrees/LSb is different so the firmware will need changing to cook the data differently, and you'll have to choose the right value for Rext to program the thermistor scaling. It's also SMT so there's that. At least Maxim gives free samples, and it shouldn't require more thaby pokey9000 - General
robster34 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Of note, I had to 'thin' the acrylic carriage > plate with a sander to fit the Mk-V hotend. It > originally measured around 5.6mm thick. Is > 6mm the proper thickness? I can print a spacer > if necessary to create the right offset between > the rods. Nope, it should be 3mm acrylic. It's thinner thanby pokey9000 - Tantillus
A shielded USB cable should hold up as long as you're not putting it through too sharp a bend radius. One alternative you might consider is an IR LED on the end effector, and two webcams at 90 degrees facing the work envelope, with OpenCV to do point tracking. A couple of IR filters over the cameras would make this easier. You'd probably have some dead spots though when the effector hides behiby pokey9000 - Delta Machines
It was fixed last night. Do a pull and try it again.by pokey9000 - Slic3r
Marlin should be able to work with it. Search around here for "marlin tb6560" as I think the STEP signal pulse width needs to be longer for TB6560 than other drivers.by pokey9000 - General