Sounds like a great idea. We should be able to create some profiles for the other slicers as well, to have a solid starting point.by Nilez - Mendel90
Seems like you have to recalibrate your z home position in the firmware as described in the manual. I'm too wondering how to set the temperatures for different filaments. I think it is set in the firmware also.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi, I have a spool of black PLA from Plastic2print. It says it needs temperatures between 190 and 220 on the package. I've followed the advice from Chris in the manual to kind of feel at which temperature one is able to manually extrude the filament by turning the large gear. It appears that I need it to be 210. Of course this isn't very precise so I was wondering how much room there is around tby Nilez - Mendel90
Maybe the tip of the hotend scrapes the layer because the z home point is not set right in the firmware?by Nilez - Mendel90
Yep,very nice for bed levelling. Slap on the dial gauge and let those buttons move it to the corners, adjust, done. Use the config.ini with the March version of pronterface if you're experiencing problems with them disappearing from the screen with the July version.by Nilez - Mendel90
Aha ABS...I'm going to postpone the use of that filament until I'm really comfortable with PLA. I'm dreading the infamous warping and bed adhesion issue too much right now. But go boldly though!by Nilez - Mendel90
Yeah there's certainly a lot to take in if you're a beginner. I'm riding the 3dprinting learning curve at the moment as well. Luckily we know we have a great printer and awesome folks here at the forum.by Nilez - Mendel90
Ok, so you are now able to select PLA 0.2 and 0.3 from the profile selection menu at the upper left corner of the screen? It prints at normal (slower) speeds with me and the right amount of material is extruded. I haven't touched settings except for the infill ratio, so something is not quite right with the way it behaves in your situation.by Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks guys!! Hey Neil, I got that thin section too, and thought I got very lucky it didn't break. Besides the use of force, this was another reason a got a bit scared using this method.by Nilez - Mendel90
I'm about to test the first spool of PLA filament other then the green sample from the kit. I've had to remove the green filament a couple of times during the building process but I still feel a bit insecure of how to do this in the most gentle way for the machine. One time I turned on the heater from pronterface and it was set to PLA 220 C and then reverse extruded 100 mm. The filament seemed toby Nilez - Mendel90
Yeah I think it's a bit part of the experience when you try to use just clean glass. Even though I have very good results after the glass is cleaned with vinegar, sometimes the print does lift for now apparent reason. Maybe little things like fluctuation in room temperature or humidity and things like that come into play as well.by Nilez - Mendel90
Ok I think the temperature at the beginning always shows 185 during the countdown before the start of a print but I'll check the temperature during a print with the check temp buttonby Nilez - Mendel90
The best thing to do is to go to Nopheads repository at github and download as zip the files from Skeinforge50plus folder (if that version was not supplied on the sd card of the kit). These are the latest files for the application (so you'll have the new cooling settings). Then use the .skeinforge Folder from the sd or github (mendel90 master directory I believe) and copy it to the directory c:\uby Nilez - Mendel90
Hi Neil and Chris, thank you for the replies. I've made sure that my extruder is calibrated to the best of my ability using the filament measuring procedure mentioned in the manual. But I now understand that the stringing is caused by the design of the object. That's one worry less then. As for the temperature of the filament, how can I verify that 185 C is used? I used the supplied profiles forby Nilez - Mendel90
Hi, I'm trying to print some calibration objects from thingiverse including this "hollow cube." (pics attached). There seems to be some weird stuff going on. In picture one, you can excess strings of filament. It happened when the bridges were being formed. On the second picture you can see a surface artefact that I've had in all my prints so far but never this clear. The cube was sliced with skby Nilez - Mendel90
Hi Chris, Yeah, I set the paramter to 1 like you and Alan suggested, removed older versions of Skeinforge and now the fan turns on nicely after layer zero has been laid down. So everything is working fine now. Thanks guys!by Nilez - Mendel90
Hey Alan, haha I might have some of those jealous versions LOL. I'm going to remove everything skeinforge-ish, jealous or not and install the 50plus version from Nopheads' repository and then do another slice. Must say Skeinforge did a beautifull job for the dial gauge clamp I've just printed though!by Nilez - Mendel90
What the heck?!...it turned on eventually indeed! I thought the first layer was when the printer had done the perimeters and then fill in one "cutsection"? Guess it takes a little longer?by Nilez - Mendel90
You have to install python on you pc to run skeinforge.py which is the actual application, there are indeed no executable files. This makes skeinforge look extra meanby Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks Alan, I find the "M106 S255" code everywhere in the gcode for which I turned the fan off for the first layer. I've attached a piece of the gcode file which ends where I find the first instance of the m106 command. (BTW The fan does work when I tell skeinforge to turn it on at the beginning and then generate a gcode from that settings)by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi, I've set the settings on the cool tab in Skeinforge to turn on the fan after the first layer but I can't get it to work. I've used these settings: Activate cool: (ticked) Full fan speed 255 Turn on fan at beginning (unticked) Do not use fan before layer: 2 Force fan on bridge layers: (unticked) Max layer time for fan use: 40 (was already set) Full fan speed below layer time 40 (the same, aby Nilez - Mendel90
As for bed cleaning suggestions I find vinegar (for household purposes) to be absolutely great so far. Also dilluted pva (white woodglue) in water in a 1:10 ratio works wonderful too. With acetone and window cleaner I get mixed results.by Nilez - Mendel90
Yep I think that did it. I used the config file with the version of Pronterface on the sd card and the buttons don't seem to disappear. I will try to recreate the error by dragging the the buttons like you suggested Chris because since my mouse is a bit hard to reach when I was levelling the bed that could very well be the cause.by Nilez - Mendel90
Oops I'm using the config file with the latest version, maybe that causes the problem. I'm goig to try the older versionby Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks Nop. I run it on Win7 ultimate 32 bit. I have one of those (cheap) dial gauges that warp the bed the further it get from the corners to the middle so I use the buttons to travel to exactly the same spot in each corner to tweak the bed. Is this an acceptable method btw? So I use the buttons quite a few times until the gauge tells me that every corner is the same. But most of the time the buby Nilez - Mendel90
Hi all, I'm having trouble with a very annoying thing with the custom buttons with Pronterface. I have to calibrate the printer again after having trouble with spinning nuts for the fan on the x-carriage. The way I prefer to level the bed this far is to install a dial gauge with the printed bracket and then use the BL/FL/BR/FR buttons in Pronterface to move to the four corners of the bed. But thby Nilez - Mendel90
Thanks for the advice guys, I'll try some epoxy then. I've removed the x-carriage from the rods so I can make a clean fix.by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi, Because I've been playing around with calibration of the printer I had to screw and unscrew the fan assembly a couple of times. Now one of the nyloc nuts is spinning in it's socket so it can't be tightened any more. I must have screwed it too tight at some point during the process. Can I cement the nut into it's socket somehow to make it stay put? I've already tried super glue, but that won'by Nilez - Mendel90
Hi all, I'd like to know how to stop a print after the outline is laid down so I can measure it for calibration?by Nilez - Mendel90