Geometry looks good however I don't own a Chimera so I can say for sure that it'll work. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
That's the plan. The hole spacing is roughly 18mm on the v1 Orion boards but there should be enough clearance to allow either the old or new chimera/cyclops heatsink to be used. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The chimera/cyclops will fit the current Orion PCB, only the plastic parts need modification. I've been contacted by a couple of people who are working on finalising the design, hopefully I'll hear back from them before too long. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
It might work, it's difficult to say until someone's tried it. The Orion was designed to work between the hotend and the rest of the printer, we do have a bracket designed for the Titan and Titan Aero but it uses a 20mm piezo and a Universal board. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
I'm sorry to hear that the PCB died, they're normally pretty robust. I know they have an important job to do but it does get frustrating. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Those numbers look really good, I'm glad it's working well and you're happy with it. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
On the v0.6 board the red led is simply a power indicator. Another thing that could cause the blue led to be partially lit are if somehow you enabled pullups. Don't get me started on Canadian customs, I can order a bunch of custom PCBs from China and have them in my hand in four days but it can take six weeks to send a package to a customer in Canada. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Certainly the PP20 board will work with a z-endstop header, just make sure you turn pullups off for that pin. Can you verify that you have a v1.2 board? (Green PCB, one potentiometer accessible from through the board) The version number will be written underneath the piezo pins. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Check your wiring, if you plug the cable in the wrong way round it can cause this effect. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Apologies for the brief reply, I'm working on house projects this weekend so very busy. The four assembly holes are on a 26mm square, they are 3.2mm in diameter. The board is 32mm wide and 43mm long. The central hole is 16mm from the left edge (centred) and 27mm from the front edge, it is centred within the square made by the four assembly holes. It is 6mm in diameter. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The accuracy and standard deviation that we claim are for the probe alone, other factors will affect the accuracy and repeatability of your readings. To test the repeatability of your probe I suggest moving the nozzle to z=1 and calling individual probes (G30?) 10 or 20 times, take the results of those probes and calculate the range and std deviation. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
FA-MAS; STLs are on thingiverse if you search for Precision Piezo Orion or if you drop me an email to precision piezo (at) yahoo (dot) com I'll email you step files. Singhm29; There's no advantage to pausing unless you are probing in Z, smoothieware doesn't react to triggers unless it is probing. Furthermore, unless you implement a delay within the G32 probing cycle you're still going to bby Moriquendi - General
Glad it's working well for you now and thank you for the great review. With regard to the potentiometer being on the bottom, I've finally managed to find a supplier of through board adjustable pots and the next revision of Orion PCB will be adjustable from above. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Let me know how that goes. One thing to check, did you replace the wiring when you installed the Orion? The pinout is different from the V2 boards. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Valentin, Try loosening the four assembly bolts slightly, start with 0.5 turns per bolt and test sensitivity again, you may need to do this a couple of times but in some setups this can make a big difference. Another possibility is that you have turned VR1 too far and need to turn it back by 180 degrees before retuning. Do you have "pause before probing" enbled? Knabo, The clamp is designed toby Moriquendi - General
What's your bed levelling process? If I remember correctly I had to: Home (G28) Probe (G31) Save Map (M374) Load Map (M375) Then print. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
That was easy Idrisby Moriquendi - General
You may may have VR2 180deg out of position, the flat on the adjuster should be roughly closest to the connection pins. Another possibility is that you don't have a good connection between the piezo and the board, can you check for continuity between the solder joints on the piezo and the pins on the board when the piezo is plugged in. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
The mount is 35x35mm and the PCB extends 10mm from the front face. I will get proper drawings up but it keeps getting pushed back by other priorities. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
If I remember correctly my issue was a single loose connection in the 3pin cable making intermittent contact, this was a nozzle sensor and when the effector was on one side it pulled on the wire very slightly and broke the connection. It was very consistent however which made it harder to pin down. I can't work out what on earth its doing in that video, half the movements and probes seem unnecesby Moriquendi - General
"Error: Z probe already triggered at start of probing move" This suggests that you are getting false triggering. A couple of things to try; Double check your wiring and connections. I had a very frustrating day chasing a probing problem that was in fact caused by a loose connection, only showed up when probing one side of the bed. Reduce sensitivity slightly, are you using a Universal board orby Moriquendi - General
I'm not familiar with the Duet and its RRF firmware so I'll wait for someone else to chime in on any firmware related issues. On the piezo front, it's not easy to tell from a video it looks as though there isn't even a flicker of a trigger over on the left side of the bed while on the other side you're getting nice clear probes and triggers. Is this true in person, can you see any flicker from tby Moriquendi - General
Mounts look good, I can't see any reason why they wouldn't work. To answer your questions; Some preload can be useful, the weight of your bed may be enough, it may not. You won't know until you try it. It makes no difference which side the force is applied except that the polarity of the signal from the piezo is reversed, if you apply force to the bed and get no trigger but see immediate triggeby Moriquendi - General
Looks good, have you got any pictures of it installed in a printer? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
With the blue led permanently on the red led should be permanently off and the output should read logic low. The reverse should be true too, blue led off, red led on output logic high. Something funny is going on, can you PM me your order number, I'll get a replacement on its way to you. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
That order isn't in the post yet so if you want/need to make changes we can still do that. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
It should definitely be possible to use underbed sensing then. Have a look at Underbed Piezo-Electric sensors on the reprap wiki and take a look through some of the available implementations on thingiverse, hopefully one will be fairly straightforward to achieve. Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Could you PM me your order number so I know exactly what you've ordered, it can be difficult to connect order numbers with forum names. Normally, in situations where nozzle probing is difficult to implement, we would suggest underbed sensing. What sort of bed arrangement do you have on your printer? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
That's a difficult one. It's not clear from the picture exactly how the extruder assembly does attach to the carriage. Might you be able to make an L shaped bracket to attach one of our Aero brackets to your carriage? Idrisby Moriquendi - General
Thank you, however the schematic you're looking at is out of date, there is no longer an unused opamp. Idrisby Moriquendi - General