After reading about several home made and one professional attempt to make an electrical cutout in the event of fire for safer unattended printing (we all do it even if we shouldn't/even if we say we don't). I decided to get a smoke sensor module, a powersupply and a power relay. Using these it was easy enough to make a circuit that enables the 240v to the printer as long as the smoke sensor isn'by DjDemonD - General
I've tried every which way with this board, as far as I can see the +5v on the right (as you look at the front of the board) is connected to NC on the switch, also goes via a resistor to signal, and via another resistor to the LED. There is also a capacitor from GND (both middle pins) to the signal. Ground is connected to NO on the switch, and signal is connected to COM on the switch. I've triedby DjDemonD - Printing
Here is the endstop board, its a 4 wire version but both central pins are GND.by DjDemonD - Printing
Okay. I3 rework with makerbot 1.2 pbc enstops. I have had them connected as normally open and working fine, the LED's work they trigger correctly and I have been running this way for months printing fine. But I am on a safety kick now so I want to configure them as normally closed, for fail-safe operating. Can these board be setup normally closed, which wires go to which pins on ramps and what dby DjDemonD - Printing
Okay since you are not getting very far with this... I am not entirely certain on the definition of "maker", but if you mean someone who has a 3d printer and is confident to produce objects with it, possibly also designing those objects (or modifying objects already designed) then I would say the key higher skills are technical and creative. Technical - using a reprap style 3d printer requiresby DjDemonD - General
Got my 200mm square sheet and installed it on my i3 with mk3 aluminium heatbed, using bulldog/binder clips for now. I can auto level using an inductive sensor just had to change the probe offset in Marlin to include the thickness of the printbite sheet. The clearance between my sensor's detection distance and the nozzle to the printbite is only 0.3mm but it is enough for now (going to change to aby DjDemonD - General
It's a setting in Slic3r (perhaps in other slicing programs also but I don't use any others) which just presumably adjusts all the z-coordinates in the Gcode by the value entered. Useful if you change something minor on the printer or notice it is printing a bit too close/far from the bed, you can just re-slice the print job with the offset applied. Its much quicker than re-flashing your firmwareby DjDemonD - General
I have an i3 and a kossel mini. The i3 axis calibration was easy, use the default steps per mm value (80 for x and y) and then mark 100mm, move 100mm and then adjust the value if it does not move the distance you need. Whilst auto calibrating the axes on the i3 would save a little time occasionally, might be a useful thing to run at the start of each day/week of printing and would be very usefulby DjDemonD - General
I run an i3 and a kossel-mini simultaneously from a 10 year old acer 8204 laptop 3gb ram, t2500 processor, windows 8.1. very occasionally get a pause on the kossel if I start a slicing job or something else processor intensive on the PC.by DjDemonD - General
Thats interesting but why not just fix the endstop mounts. Use that method to print them.by DjDemonD - General
There was a good post about sensors (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,547498,568423#msg-568423) if you use a normally open sensor then resistors aren't needed as the output pulls to ground so you can connect the + and - of the sensor to +12v and 0v/ground and the signal to the z-min endstop signal pin. It won't damage your board as it grounds the pin when triggered, enable pullup resistor forby DjDemonD - General
I sincerely hope that Makers will lead the next industrial revolution but this article makes some quite convincing points about why they won't.by DjDemonD - General
Depends on the printer but you want a 0.1mm gap between the nozzle and the bed. So assuming a level bed, home all axes, move to bed center and assuming your z endstop is set to give you some clearance between bed and nozzle, stick a feeler gauge under the nozzle note the actual clearance then work out the offset to give 0.1mm when you print. Or home all, move to bed center then send G z10 thenby DjDemonD - General
Let me know if you manage to adapt it to work on cartesian/core xy machines. I've been thinking harder about this; this firmware has to print on a potentially uneven surface as Deltas suffer from effectively printing convex or concave because of their inherent geometry, so the autolevelling has to form a map of bed height points, a plane would be less use than a chocolate teacup.by DjDemonD - General
Might it be worth looking at the autolevelling feature in Rich Cattells Marlin firmware (https://github.com/RichCattell/Marlin). It does not just compute a new surface plane but follows an uneven surface whilst printing. I know this as I have seen it occasionally mis-read a particular point on the bed during G29 and then seen the print head deflect wildly above this point as it passes it duringby DjDemonD - General
Tried printing with this, prints okay with a bed temp at 90 and extruder at 210. The warping is very bad even a 2cm calibration cube printed on a raft with a wide brim showed some layer delamination mid way up the part from warping. So it can be printed with but doesn't seem to be ideal for it. I presume commercially available nylon filament for 3d printing is a different polymer or contains someby DjDemonD - General
Thanks for the data sheet, nice low melting point 200-215 deg C.by DjDemonD - General
This is what I've read on line is it suitable to print with?by DjDemonD - General
I was in a local recycling/upcycling store today and picked up this massive spool of yellow plastic filament for £5. Wine glass shown for scale in the image. It's abs by the smell of it when I burnt a small piece and is 1.7mm diameter. I have never seen anything this size before it must be 10kgs at least. Does anyone know what it have been intended for, it doesn't look like it was meant for tby DjDemonD - General
QuoteNarimaanV I think people use the inductive sensors for the advantages of a metal bed as well as opposed to just inductive vs capacitive. And if you already have a metal bed, I'd imagine inductive is probably better to go for than capacitive (don't know for sure, but I think capacitive is slightly open to interference by other stuff near the sensor where as inductive mainly pics up only metalby DjDemonD - General
Yeah I was thinking along the lines of host controller rather than hardware control. Might just be neater and smarter than an old laptop (which is what I've got now).by DjDemonD - General
Has anyone used anything like this device, with windows 10 and what appears to be a decent screen, all at a very reasonable price it might make a good control unit for a printer?by DjDemonD - General
How do you wire a smoke detector to cut off the printer. Is it connected to the kill switch?by DjDemonD - General
If you want to do this in a really cool way get some UV security markers. Get a UV light and draw all over the wall. You will only see it when you turn on the UV light or if very bright sunlight shines on the wall and even then it's only quite feint.by DjDemonD - General
I was getting a lot of these errors on both my printers which I couldn't quite work out. In the end it turned out to be the USB mouse which was causing some sort of interference on the USB bus. If I did not use the mouse during upload (and verification) the error does not occur. Hope this helps.by DjDemonD - General
Thanks I will try these things I suspect filament as the size is well under and its not the cleanest filament I've come across. I am printing at 185 deg C would you say that could be too hot?by DjDemonD - Delta Machines
Does anyone know why I might be getting one corner a little curled up as in the photo? I am using a thinkprint3d kossel mini, running master brach of Rich Cattells marlin with FSR auto levelling.by DjDemonD - Delta Machines
I recently bought a kossel mini assembled. Everything works well except it's printing too large in the x y dimension. My 20mm calibration cube is 20.7mm in x and y but is 10.03mm in z, so z is good enough for me. I need to check it's not over extruding, but can anyone suggest any other obvious reason? This is my first delta I also have an i3 rework which runs pretty well. I am using marlinby DjDemonD - Delta Machines