I have just removed all the Tool change files from the SD card, - but the problem is still there. Currently Tool0 does G10 and G11 very slow. It has not problem to retract at 60mm/3 with DWC... One thing I just have noticed though: when I send M207 without any parameters, here is what comes as a reply: M207 Retraction settings: length 6.00/6.00mm, speed 3600/3600mm/min, Z hop 0.20mm Apparentby Teilchen - Duet
I have a strange issue with Firmware retraction and multiple Tools/ extruders. Sometimes after the tool change the retraction will be done very slowly, I would say something like 1-2mm/s, instead of specified 60 mm/s. The Z-hop would be done very slowly as well. First I had it only with one tool, this effect was gone after changing to the other driver on Duex4. But now it is back and with the othby Teilchen - Duet
Quotejoestefano Updated to latest version of PanelDue and the 3rd Ex/heater indicator lights don't work. I can confirm that. I also notice some inconsistency with PanelDue, so I will use this chance to tell about it Perhaps there is some misunderstanding from my side as well, but basically we have 4 hotend icons on PanelDue, numbered 1 to 4. I would guess they supposed to represent Tools? Or isby Teilchen - Duet
Good point here. I am actually quite happy now the way it is. Thanks everybody for the input! And happy holidaysby Teilchen - General
Yes I know what you are trying to say, but it all depends on how large the print is I think I have solved the issue. Separating the thermistor wires from the mains did not bring anything in my setup, but since I have a thermal insulation on my bed, I found a spot at about 2/3 of the bed radius and stuck the new thermistor there, just between the insulation and the silicon mat. This gives quiteby Teilchen - General
Quoteo_lampe Were the temp readings bad from the beginning? Maybe it's the 50Hz from the mains voltage that disturbs your sensor. A rectifier to run the bed at 220V DC would help and/or a low-pass-filter in the sensor cable. Be aware that rectifying mains voltage leads to a higher DC voltage. This might be a good idea, but using a rectifier will give me 310V DC roughly. The bed has an impedanceby Teilchen - General
Yes, the thermistor was jumping from the very beginning... I had the thermistor cables zip tied to the heater cable, and now they are separated, perhaps it will improve now. The bed was run in Bang-Bang mode over the SSR. My bed thermistor was actually showing only 10C more than the bed itself... I know one can say that there is actually not much difference if it is showing 10C plus, or 20C minuby Teilchen - General
Hi there, I have 330mm dia bed, heated by a 220v 300W silicon heater. It seems Ike the thermistor inside the bed has some issues, which causes my temp reading to jump around, causing the FW to report the heater fault and stop the printer. The exposed thermistor cables seem to be OK, so there is nothing I can fix there. If I connect a spare thermistor, all seems to work fine. However, I can only mby Teilchen - General
- deleted - since off topic...by Teilchen - Duet
Better check the thermistor cables for integrity... I used to have my heat bed thermistor going crazy by a couple of Celsius degrees... turned out to be a minor isolation issue, i could not even see it with my eyes. But when the bed got hot - it got worse. Just try to wiggle a bit on the wires and see if there is a change... Sounds stupid, but then again: I was very sure my wiring was sound asby Teilchen - Duet
So, did you finalize the design? Can we hope to see the files in Thingiverse?by Teilchen - Delta Machines
I think here you will find answers to all your questions: The extruder numbers on DueX4 are 2,3,4,5, but they are placed not at this order on the board. Just follow the link above...by Teilchen - Duet
That's a great news! Thanks for all hard work! Grid compensation sounds cool, I definitely have an uneven bed (sombrero-shape to about 50um). Where can I read about how to set things up on a delta? I am still running FW 1.13, didn't have time to upgrade yet, so what should I pay attention to by jumping to 1.17? I guess I will have to retune the heaters, right? Any guides on this?by Teilchen - Duet
Ok, this makes more sense now. Sorry, but still - coordinate system of any delta is alway the way it is, I guess I was confused by you asking if it is a "+" or "x" orientation... I am not saying it is the only way, but usually the steps per per mm can be calculated if you know the number of tooth on the pulley, belt pitch and number of degrees per step of your stepper motor. For a 20 Tooth pulleby Teilchen - Duet
I think you should read a litle bit more about Delta style printers. Sorry for being so direct. But your questions are going really down to basics, and have nothing to do with Duet controller. I wonder how did you manage to build one actually... Again, I do not mean to offend you, just trying to help. The Firmware calculates the kinematic for you. Your center of coordinates is in the middle of yoby Teilchen - Duet
Thanks, good and simple idea! But why not to use the heater output directly, if the fan power would not exceed a typical 40W what a heater would have? Oh, I got it, you were talking about the extension header, but I have the duex4 installed, so I guess I can connect to the heater terminal detectly...by Teilchen - Duet
Hi there, I have a question on what would be the best way to connect the electronics cooling FANs so they could be turned on/off via G-Code or through the Web Interface? I am not talking about the Hotend and/or Sample Cooling, since this is already been taken care of... The reason I am asking is simple: I often print over night, or over a longer period of time. If the printer is idle, the electrby Teilchen - Duet
I think it prints just fine, what speed was it printed at?by Teilchen - Delta Machines
I second that. I had the same behavior previously. And if you would had a look the the g-code logging, there should be a message, that you were trying to print with no tool selected. Although I would agree, that this behavior is not 'Normal', but there're is an easy fix for it.by Teilchen - Duet
This is exactly what I see. I am glad we are on the same page here. I just do not like the appearance of the overextruded first layer, it is just not straight lines, but wobbly instead . And I like to get things right . I guess slicer comes from the older days, where one used a scheet of paper to check the standof distance, and I have seen a lot of online guides and manuals, that say that this isby Teilchen - Delta Machines
Yes, first layer height, as-well as the stand-of distance are very important for the print quality. I have a DC42 IR Sensor, and can check the stand-of very well and precise. When I do bed leveling set-up (IR sensor calibration) I can make sure, that than the procedure is done, I get a constant nozzle offset to the bed over a large area. This works very well. However, if I set a certain firstlayeby Teilchen - Delta Machines
So what did we learn from this? I see that with my settings and brim everything is working nice for me... But with a taller print I get a very minor warping still. Adhesion is very good otherwise. How much do you lower the temperatures (both temps)? I have two theories: - bed is too hot, plastic is soft and can be therefor lift by shrinkage forces - bed is too cold, so it just lifts off as it wby Teilchen - Delta Machines
These were my standard settings except the brim... Just did the second one with standard settings and 10mm brim. This seems to solve the minor warping for this thing. Tied your settings for the first layer too, did not get any good adhesion. But I guess the main reason for this is not correct tempreading of my bed. When I set it to 140deg, I get something in a 120-125deg range, which fits yourby Teilchen - Delta Machines
Just done printing file... The print took 31min44sec No skirt, no prim. Settings as in the GCode file... Smalles layershift at the very top of the letters, I thick this happened after the half of the "arrow" warped on me by a tiny bit. Slight warping at corners is also visible. Well, I had a closer look at it, it is not a shift, just a different extrusion width for some reason, probalby because oby Teilchen - Delta Machines
Yes this bed_adhesion_test looks way more feasible. I am starting it now. I have printed this box (140x140mm) for a friend of mine over night: looks like a perfect first layer to me, but I see warping even at the round corners... I almost thick that my bed is maybe too hot for the plastic?..by Teilchen - Delta Machines
No support at al? Number of perimeters? Well, I am not into testing that much, so I will be following your advice on what model to choose. A scaled down object might influence the performance though... let us try a 100% version maybe? I will try your settings as well as my standard.... 0.4mm nozzle, 0.3mm first layer, 0.2 the rest. Number of shells - depending on the application. Hotend 245/240by Teilchen - Delta Machines
Jesus Christ that's a sick thing to print! I do not even think it is possible Well, let's do it. What other settings should we both use?by Teilchen - Delta Machines
Hm, this is quite much slower and thicker to what I use (30mm/s, 0.3mm (zero nozzle offset), but at 200% layer width). Anyway, thanks for the feedback, I do not want to pollute your thread with my problemsby Teilchen - Delta Machines
Yes this sounds similar to my settings... I have no firstlayer adhesion problems at all, it sticks very well, but I get slight warping (usually corners) even with short prints. I am always using a 10mm brim, but with now effort... what are your first layer settings, like speed, width, height? I would expect the same surface matrial to perform similar even with minor filament quality issues.by Teilchen - Delta Machines
Looks great! Seams to be no warping at all even in the corners... care to share the bed temp you were using? I use PrintBite as well, but have so minor issues with warping at the corners...by Teilchen - Delta Machines