Thank you so much! Erosby erosnicolau - Developers
LOL, and darn, nothing's ever new on this world! ) And there I was, proud of my idea... Thanks for the link, I'm looking into that! What's your opinion on that approach, anyway? Erosby erosnicolau - Mechanics
@cdru: - I was even wondering how in the world do all these "auto-leveling" printers take all that Z-axis fidgeting into account, lash-wise... - About multiple hot-ends: haven't tried that yet, so having zero experience there I'm (still) wondering WHICH slicers support multi - extruder configs. It's very tempting for me too to try and build such a nice "toy" . I've seen the "0.3mm + 0.8mm" apprby erosnicolau - Mechanics
Hi again, guys, and thank you for th quick replies! First, exuse my blundering terminology - I called the Delta's "Polar 3d's" when in fact the polar ones are a completely different concept, which I didn't include for the only reason they're not as mainstream yet (but rather experimental and with extremely limited software support). Also, yes, the "split extruder" I was talking about is the Bowdby erosnicolau - Mechanics
Hi, there, I've been researching different 3d printer configurations lately and I saw pretty different approaches in how to choose what's fixed and what's moving in a 3d printer. Basically, 2 rules apply generally: - the lighter the moving parts, the speedier the print can be - the lighter the moving parts, the less inertia, resulting in the more precise printing. I'll try to summarize these apby erosnicolau - Mechanics
Hi, guys, Nice topic! Especially since I've been dabbling in harmonic drives for almost a year. I'll take all your replies and respond individually, where I see the need for a reply: @aka47: I happen to know exactly what metals are used in harmonic drives. high-end, martensitic-hardened stainless steels. hard-core shit and for good reason. plastic is OK as long as you only need a working toy. iby erosnicolau - Mechanics
Hi again, Nophead, I followed your advice (backed by the creator of Megatronics, too) and grabbed 4 of these babies. Pretty strong for their size, and fully in line with your advice (low voltage, low impedance, amps per phase within driver range). However, my Megatronics arduino, in conjunction with the DRV8825, seems to drive the newer, low voltage motors, at the exact same max. speed as the otby erosnicolau - For Sale
Thank you so much, man! (I'm guessing pps = pulses per second, and therefore 4000pps = 20rps = 1200rpm)by erosnicolau - For Sale
Thank you so much for your explanation, @nophead! You really shed some light on this one! It means that we made a mistake buying those motors initially... Oh well, I'll wait for them to arrive and will try selling them online, to recover at least part of the "damage", and re-order other motors instead... As for the 35BYG204: it has a lower torque (800g-cm) than what we need (at least 1000g-cm).by erosnicolau - For Sale
Hi, @nophead, and thank you for your reply! I seem to be at a loss here, in terms of what the best thing should be for me, and in terms of recommended voltages/amperages. I thought if you have a 12V motor you should run it at or around 12V... Your reply leaves me at a brand new crossroad. Pumping 12V into a 2.8V motor won't burn it? Needing to run on batteries, I am limited to overall smaller vby erosnicolau - For Sale
Coming back after some recent experience with the A4988 from Pololu (testing config: Megatronics + A4988 + 42BYG011-25, powered up from a 12V PC case power supply) 1. The motor can hardly achieve 200-210rpm, before starting to buzz like crazy. Even this is not always true - sometimes it starts jittering just under 150rpm 2. Between 200-300rpm, the motor acts like a drunkard - moving spasmodicallby erosnicolau - For Sale
Hi, and thank you for this great resource! Question: when I try to build an 180 tooth MXL pulley into OpenSCAD, the program gets to around 98% and then seems to freeze there, never advancing anymore... Is this simply a matter of waiting? Is there any other way I could get the teeth profile of my needed pulley? Thank you, Erosby erosnicolau - Developers
Hey, @InteractiveMatter, Great job on the TOS-100! Too bad it's only in classic Arduino format, not in Pololu-standard format too Any plans in that direction too? And too bad your initial run was so small - I noticed they sold like hot cakes! So, congrats, again! As for myself - I'm no electrician whatsoever, I'm a mere product designer, with general skills in multiple areas, but no specificby erosnicolau - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Way to go, man! Pretty shortly I'll have to make my mind about which drivers to use for now on my 3 Megatronics boards: - classic high current pololu-s - easydriver - not sure about that one, people say it would be a bit better - adapted with wires to the pololy-type slots - TOS-100 - adapted with wires to the pololy-type slots (although I need 18 of them and the stock is almost finished on watby erosnicolau - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
You welcome, RAF! In the meanwhile, I discovered some guys who already started on this path, but incomplete: they took the Trinamics chip and transplpanted it on an Arduino shield. It's not far from there to where I'm aiming... http://www.motioncontrol-community.org/?page_id=353by erosnicolau - For Sale
Other smart IC ideas: 1. The Trinamic TMC246 IC: - A bit pricey, at as low as 8eur/piece, but WAY CHEAPER than their end-products (almost 20x cheaper) 2. The Trinamic TMC249 IC etc. you get the idea...by erosnicolau - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi, guys, I'm new to this, so if I say something stupid, please just smile, bear with me and correct me I know the Pololu-compatible stepper driver breakout boards are open source designs, and that one can create such a board starting from basicly any compatible driver IC. Why doesn't anybody design such a driver breakout board based on smarter chips, like this one: http://www.onsemi.com/Powby erosnicolau - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)