I'm beginning to think this is a hardware problem. D9 LED is always on. It always has 12v. I've changed from marlin beta to sprinter to marlin v1.0 and still nothing with this fan output.by Entropy - General
I've been messing around with this and still can not get it to work. D9 is always on. I've gone into Pin.h and changed everything to match the wiki and still nothing. Any help would be appreciated. What am I doing wrong?by Entropy - General
I've measured the thickness of the filament and its pretty uniform. Also, I switched colors and I'm still seeing the ribs. I have changed out my Z axis pulley to a machined one so I don't imagine that would be it, but I could check again. I will try printing two at the same time and see. The pitch of the ribs changes based on the height of the object printed. If its a smaller part, thenby Entropy - General
Karl reminded me that the new Pronterface has slic3r built in as well in the precompiled version.by Entropy - General
The eMaker huxley is a much better design than the Techzone Huxley sold here in the States. The tech zone model is basically a miniature "Sells" Mendel and is complicated to build and tech zone doesn't have the best instructions to go off of. I assume it uses 1.75 filament because it requires less torque to push through the bowden cable. Not sure what size motor is uses for the extruder butby Entropy - General
It doesn't seem to be directly related to a specific axis. I'm leaning more towards either a temperature issue or filament thickness. The machine is set up in my basement which is pretty cold. I'm thinking the differences may be to the heater in the print bed shutting off after it meets it's temp and then turning back on, or may the hot end, or a combo of both. Not too sure how to prove it.by Entropy - General
Ahhh, thanks. I figured i'd have an extra 3' laying around for future projects, but if that steel isn't the best then I will definitely going with your suggestion. Thanks!by Entropy - General
Are you suggesting this because of the price solely? Because that is only a 3' length and the one I mentioned is sold as 6' so the price is almost identical. Not sure if the tolerances are better on that or not without doing a few conversions.by Entropy - General
I'm in the midst of building my prusa now that I have all the parts printed. I'm in the USA so metric sizes are tough to get ahold of. I found some precision ground 8mm smooth rod from McMaster-Carr. Product Number 5544T27 on page: I believe this should work? Thoughts? Plan on using lm8uu bearings which is the main reason to use 8mm instead of 5/16.by Entropy - General
Agreed, Slic3r with Skienforge when slic3r doesn't cut it. Pronterface is great. Slic3r is very easy. Theres a great tutorial out there entitled Sic3r is Nicer, it'll give you the basics. (Doesn't cover some of the new changes, but should be enough to help you out.) SFACT is a slimmed down version of Skeinforge and was a great introduction for me. Still a bit more complicated than Slic3r. Sby Entropy - General
No Bowden cable on the Huxley, replaced it with a direct wades.by Entropy - General
This is a tech zone huxley. Basically a mini Sells mendel. It has one Z stepper. I was thinking the same thing. That the layers were compressed and causing the banding. I'll check out my Z axis. I just got some machined pulleys in, so maybe I'll install one on there and check it out. Thanks for the help everyone!by Entropy - General
Can someone explain how the Z rods might have cause this? And why it happens all of a sudden?by Entropy - General
The ribbing on this part seems to be uniform, on other parts its not as pretty. It appears more random. While I'm not ruling the Z out, I haven't made any changes to my X or Z axis and this wasn't happening before.by Entropy - General
Yes, the daughter board and cable to connect them is all included. A starting bid of $80 is less than half of what they sell for brand new. ($178)by Entropy - For Sale
I have been noticing this "ribbing" on my prints lately. I have recently switched to the newest versions of prontoface and slic3r. Not sure if that has something to do with it. Other than that I haven't changed much, and this just can into existence in the past week or so. Slic3r or SF(depending on the part) --> Marlin --> RAMPS 1.4 --> JHEAD. ABS I have played with different layeby Entropy - General
100% Brand new still in plastic. Everything you need. Just hook up your hot end and stepper motors and you're ready to go. I received this as a replacement for a faulty board, in the mean time I had already made the switch to RAMPS 1.4. So I have no use for this. Let me know if there are any questions. Thanks!by Entropy - For Sale
Same here with Marlin. No fan controls working. Its just always on.by Entropy - General
D9 (called so because of the pin from the Arduino) does support PWM. So what Nudel is saying may be correct. I'll have to check when I get home.by Entropy - General
If D9 is a MOSFET can you use PWM for fan control? Does it work that way? Does the pin its connected to on the Arduino support PWM?by Entropy - General
Is there something specific in the firmware I need to change? Plugging a fan into D9 has it running continuously.by Entropy - General
Thats actually what I've been doing, just angling the fan upwards away from the bed and having it constantly blowing. I will try both ways and see what I get. Thanks for the help!by Entropy - General
I reprinted them at a lower infill and with red ABS and they turned out fine. It seems like the glow in the dark ABS had moisture in it or something. The finish had tiny bubbles in it and it was very brittle. Does this sound like a moisture problem?by Entropy - General
I'd like to take advantage of the cooling option in slic3r and skeinforge and have a fan turn on when cooling is needed. What is the best what to go about doing this? Any write ups anywhere about it?by Entropy - General
I'm using ABS, which happens to be glow in the dark. I will try and print with a lower infill. Could it be a layer adhesion problem? It seems like they are extrememly brittle.by Entropy - General
So I've printed everything except the x axis ends with no problem. I am having a ton of difficulty printng the bar clamps. They end up beng really brittle and breaking. Any idea why this is? I've printing them with 100% infill and still breakage.by Entropy - General
Everything is in ABS with a .5 nozzle. I have machined pulleys so thats not a big deal and already have the wades printed. But the height of the X axis is going to cause problems. Maybe I'll try the Vert-X parts instead.by Entropy - General
I haven't gotten into any of the additional options yet. Like any other firmware, check your steps for each axis, set your temp settings, and watch your max feed rate and excellerations. Other than that, its the same stuff as usual. Let me know if you run into any specific problems.by Entropy - General
The "look ahead" algorithm used by marlin makes cornering and circles much faster and cleaner. It also makes transitioning from perimeter to infill very quick. Plus Marlin gives you an "advanced config" tab to make deeper changes. I have been thrilled with the results thus far. I would highly recommend it. And if your using Ramps, its as easy as loading the file in Arduino 0.23.by Entropy - General
I use Marlin with Ramps 1.4, should be very similar. What do you need to know?by Entropy - General