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Printing issues ...
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Thanks
I'll try getting a replacement
Can you recommend a link where I could perhaps buy a replacement also ?
But looking ahead (hopefully) and say I have a working hot end
What is the right way to find the correct temperature of a material. Is there a proper procedure or process ?
Also, When Z is at home, what exactly should be the height between the tip of the hot end and glass
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
I'm attaching two photos
( 0892 )
The first is the original hot end I just pulled it out of the holder
Yes I have a 12VDC fan blowing on the PEEK (The black tube) yes
The Other hot end I was waiting for just arrived and so I photographed it ( 0893 )
The only print I have managed to get right was PLA without the fan at around 205 oC
Everything else has failed, including the latest attemp
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
Sure the original J-Head
Following you jheadnozzle link very much like the first one including the red inside tube , washer and hex nut etc…
The RPW MK V-BV hotends.com
Can you then recommend a link where I can buy a decent Hot End that will print different materials esp. ABS, PLA, Nylon and NinjaFlex
Thanks again
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
Thanks
Currently using a
3D Printer J Head Hot End Kit for 3.0 mm Filament - 0.35 mm, Resistor, Thermistor, Teflon Tubing (from Amazon)
But I have also ordered a
Getech 3D Printer RepRap Assembled J-Head Hot End Hotend for 3mm filament ABS/PLA for Prusa Mendel. 4 options Nozzle Size:0.3mm,0.35mm,0.4mm,0.5mm (0.3mm Nozzle) (also from Amazon)
Which I am waiting to arrive, as I think I migh
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
What is the process that most follow in finding the right temperature for a printing material ?
I have a roll of PLA, ABS, Nylon 618 and NinjaFlex
I have been able to get ABS to print, everything else clogs up the extruder
I have read from the manufacturers website the printing temperature which is often in a range like 230 to 260 I have taken the mid point and started there and then increased
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
Thank You
I keep forgetting the Arduino and firmware side of things
was it my motherboard was 34 now 33 and the fan is working well
Thanks
by
TheBearF8
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General
Following posts found in the forum I have tried to connect a 12V DC fan to D9
My problem is I'm only getting 18 mV on D9
Now I get 18 mV on D10 until I send the pronterface signal to heat then it goes to 12V
I tried sending M106 Sxxx where xxx has been 0, 1, 5, 128, 150, 250, 255 and nothing the fan never comes on
What am I missing ?
Thanks in advance
by
TheBearF8
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General
Thanks Guys
First off this is a repstrap my own piece together very similar to a Prusa 3i with bits taken from a 3D drag
I used 1/4-20 threaded rod from Lowes and tapped a 1/4 - 20 hole in the aluminum that connects the X-Z axis (head) to the Z-axis threaded rod
The M201 M203 and M92 numbers are direct from Pronterface and I believe are what is set in the firmware but I can change any of
by
TheBearF8
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General
Trying to dial in my Z-Axis calibration
Here is what I did using pronterface to move the Z-Axis Up by 1 each time
I measured from the bed to the head (fixed points)
124.22
1 125.45 1.23 mm
2 126.56 1.11 mm
3 126.89 0.33 mm
4 128.14 1.25 mm
5 129.28 1.14 mm
6 130.23 0.95 mm
7 131.18 0.95 mm
8 132.42 1.24 mm
9 132.59 0.17 mm
10 133.01 0.42 mm
11 133.87 0.86 mm
12 140.18 6.31 mm
13 141.31 1.13
by
TheBearF8
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General
To Cameron
Thanks
That did the job and I'm printing my first so far successful test cube
and we have got to the 10mm point on a 20mm cube
Thanks for all your help
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
Started in test cube moved due to hijacking (sorry)
I did a filament calibration without the hot end in place
100mm is fed into the extruder so that part I feel is right
However started to do my very first print (the test cube) and the first 4 - 5 layers were a complete mess
Plus I am under the impression, the head moves to home and the filament is supposed to come out and leave a thin line
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
Sorry
Will move to a new topic
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
help , please
I did a filament calibration without the hot end in place
100mm is fed into the extruder so that part I feel is right
However started to do my very first print (the test cube) and the first 4 - 5 layers were a complete mess
Plus I am under the impression, the head moves to home and the filament is supposed to come out and leave a thin line from home to the object
I get nothing
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
Thanks Cameron
After much playing around I think I got it right ???
One thing I did not just on the Y axis
Move forward by 10 and move back by 10 does not return to the same spot on the rail
If Forward is 10 then backward was only 9
what would cause this difference ?
Thanks again
by
TheBearF8
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General
Thanks guys
What I currently have:
---------------------------
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.7402,78.7402,200.0*8/3,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {9000,9000,100,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are goo
by
TheBearF8
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General
Hi All
Just finished my first build and have the printer connected
Using Pronterface I am able to move the X, Y and Z
However
It would appear that 0.1 moves the head the greatest amount, while 1 moves the head about 1/2 as much and 10 moves the head again by 1/2 100 the motor wines but there is no movement at all
What could be wrong ?
Plus when I move X or Y you just hear a "grunt" as the
by
TheBearF8
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General
To Lazzymonk
Thanks for the feedback Yes it is a 12V PSU
could you go into more details, how did you get the 75W and 290W figures ?
Also if this was a 500W or 600W PSU which then would be best ?
Thanks in advance
by
TheBearF8
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General
If one was to use two 8.5" ( MK2a ) hotbeds side by side creating a 8.5" x 17" bed
Would one connect the bed in parallel or series
I have a 300W power supply.
Thanks in advance
by
TheBearF8
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General
Hi, all
can someone please shed light on the differences in the types of printing materials
So far I have found (and I'm not saying this is a complete list)
PLA , ABS , Nylon 645
What are the differences ? or let me ask it this way
I have two projects
A) which requires a hard plastic box that can be outdoor and face outdoor temperatures ranging from winter to summer
which requires a soft sq
by
TheBearF8
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Printing
lazzymonk Thank you for the link
That will work great
by
TheBearF8
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General
The extra 2" on my first project would be real helpful yes
What if you had two beds side by side 8x8 + 8x8 effectively giving 16x8
Is that possible ?
again as I said in my first post I'm new to reprap and this will be my first 3D printer
Thanks again
by
TheBearF8
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General
Thanks for the input (lazzymonk & DaveS)
What then are the realistic large sizes that can be printed
Would 10" x 5" x 3" be reasonable ?
Thanks again
by
TheBearF8
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General
Hotbed - 10 years ago
Hi All,
new to the rewrap community
I was wondering exactly what the hotbed it typically made of ?
I find online most hotbeds are 200mm x 200mm or 8" x 8" and most 3D printers are this size also.
I'm interested in building a bigger printer 16" x 28" so I'm guessing I'll need to build my own hotbed.
Thanks in advance
by
TheBearF8
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General