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Printing issues ...
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Ok ,I have reprinted my GPS cover without the Spiralize setting ticked and it prints as it should......well almost.....have some cracks/seperation issues on the larger prints still. I am now setting my printer up so that it is fully enclosed to see if this solves the cracking/ seperation problem.
get back to everyone soonish. :-)
Regards
Nige
by
happygoluckyaussie
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Printing
It looks like the setting "Spiralize the outer layer" is causing the problems. When I untick this, the layer view shows the model correctly and the infill returns as well. I will perform a print and see if what the previews are showing also is carried out in the print job itself. Get back to everyone soon.
Regards
Nige
by
happygoluckyaussie
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Printing
Hi Ohmarinus,
I assume the preview mode you are talking about is "layers" mode which is available from the icon in the top right corner???
I checked that mode and found that it does show that the bottom layer of my print job will not print correctly......no idea why, it is just a flat rectangle 3mm thick, can't get any simpler object than that!
I have attached the print job so anyone can throw th
by
happygoluckyaussie
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Printing
Try changing the MOSFET that controls your heatbed. This has made a difference on my i3, not perfect as yet but I suspect my power supply is the problem as I am not getting 12V at the heatbed terminals.
Regards
Nige
by
happygoluckyaussie
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Printing
I am finding way toooo many weird things with cura 14.07 and the previous version. It looks nice to use but the results and the wasted plastic on prints that just do not come out as shown on the screen is just getting too much.
I think I will be going back to using Slic3r until I can find something better.
Regards
Nige
by
happygoluckyaussie
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Printing
Hey Cefiar,
That Radio Parts PS looks good. Not been a big fan of anything from China lately, parts have been taking around 2 months to get to me here in Newcastle and I have had to chase some orders up with suppliers only to be told after the fact that customs returned the item to them.....they were not going to tell me I would think, just hope that i never enquired and keep my $$$...arrgghh
Re
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
Hmmm....Battery charger I was going to use as the power supply for the heatbed is showing a 6V difference on the -ve compared to the -ve that is powering the rest of my RepRap Mendal i3.
I think I will search out another power supply that has a bit more giddy up that I can use to power the whole setup rather than using two different power sources. Any suggestions???
Regards
Nige
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
and........what happened?????
I have cura missing whole sections of a print, ie the base of a print so I am interested in how to solve the missing areas of print with cura.
by
happygoluckyaussie
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Printing
Yes @cefiar, you are totally correct in the power calcs.....lol....I am really out of practice on these....must stop trying to do calcs in the middle of the night.... Gave myself a good smack in the head after that dumb mistake.
Thanks again for your valuable advice. I have a Battery charger I built as an apprentice, I may have a closer look at it in the morning to see what sort of current I buil
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
Nope, P=V x I
So if you double the Voltage you double the power.
Regards
Nige
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
Sorry for the ddelay in getting back to you cdru. I have taken the effort to measure the resistance of the heatbed and found it to be approx 1.5ohms when it was sitting at 60deg between prints (this printing is so addictive.
The voltage at the bed just after connect wires and turning it back on is approx 10.31V now with 3.8A current being measured to the bed via a clamp meter for current measure
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
I have been using a 300W atx PS, I also have roofing insulation under the heatbed to stop heat escaping. I am just wondering about my heatbed itself, it is only pulling about 3A and has 10.5V across it which when calculated out means that the resistance is well above the 1.2 ohm it is supposed to be. In saying that though, the terminal wiring is a bit strange, the bed can take 24V or 12V dependin
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
Well, time for another update....
Not much calibration has been needed so far, but looking at my bed temps after 30min of printing they are at around 80deg C. I had some prints lift off the bed and thus fail. One print I noticed last night had a warped base and it was only 2cm long. I have been using Hairspray on the bed to bind the prints....maybe I need to change the Hairspray brand LOL.
Seriou
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
Just thought I would pop in an update on my heatbed issue. I got an IRF405 mosfet from Jaycar today and put that in place of the other mosfet feeding D8 and now I have a mosfet that runs cool and I get around 10.6 V to the heatbed which allows it to warm up to 110deg in just under 20min.YAY Now printing and finding out how much calibration I need to do to get my printjobs looking good.
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
I will double check the connections Waitaki. I am thinking maybe the mosfet may need to be updated so I am checking my options on what mosfets may be able to be used. the local Jaycar store does not seem to have a wide variety available. Just doing a crash course on mosfets and how they work and what parameters are important...lol
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics
Intosite that looks like it is getting close. I am only getting 7.6V to my Heatbed. I just checked how many amps were going through to the heatbed and it looks to be around 5.3A. aarrrgghhh....just measured Volts from the -ve terminal of heatbed to the psu -ve and got a reading of 3.5V. interestingly the voltage from the -ve heatbed terminal to GND starts high and gradually drops to 3.5v.
Anyone
by
happygoluckyaussie
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RAMPS Electronics