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Printing issues ...
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Hi all ... kept working on this with the following result:
I looked around and found EZAutomation.net and they had a very wide variety of sensors.
I picked up on with a 10mm sensing distance and 70 deg C spec. (EZ-M12-NPNNC-NMW-TS).
This is an NPN sensor which is normally closed (NC). You may need something different depending on
how you wire it. The main thing is the longer sensing distance.
by
djzman
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General
Hello all ... I downloaded and configured Marlin 1.0.2 for auto-bed leveling. I used an LJ12A3-2-Z/AX sensor with aluminium tape on glass.
After I worked out all of the numbers in configuration.h, it worked great ... UNTIL, I heated up the bed to 70 deg C to make the final Z nozzle offset measurement.
After about 10-20 minutes, the sensor overheats and goes into the "triggered" mode, even if I
by
djzman
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General
I do like beer, but I like my printer more ... some of the protrusions are taller than 1mm and I wouldn't risk damage to the printer.
Maybe a reduction in speed would allow better "four-wheelin' " over the hills.
Thanks for your help along the way ...
by
djzman
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Printing
OK ... one final image ...
Note the nearly perfect lower left corner ... transitioning to "the issue" as the strokes get longer and/or the print moves toward the middle.
by
djzman
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Printing
OK ... here is the conclusion as far as I'm concerned ...
Still trying suggestions that might have made sense, I increased the infil to 30% ... that just made a more miniature version of the same problem.
Then, working off of the suggestion made above by ggherbaz, I selected the "line" infill pattern. Actually, I was completely wrong in my expectation of what that would do. I though that it w
by
djzman
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Printing
OK, sports fans ...
A smaller version worked almost fine ... a little bumpyness, but no obvious raised lines and very little pillowing, if any. The printer was able to put subsequent top layers on without vibrating violently.
So, what's the difference between the big one (19.5 cm top-bottom) and the small one (75%, about 12 cm top-bottom)? BTW, the smaller one was also "scaled" to be thinner
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djzman
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Printing
JamesK,
That's a really interesting idea ... I did have one thought along those lines earlier so I tried turning the hotbed off after the first couple of layers ... unfortunately, the print let loose from the bed and I never went back to it.
I am actually trying a smaller version of the attempted larger object (a flat, large state of Wisconsin) as a sort of random test to see if the size (and t
by
djzman
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Printing
OK, some progress.
I tried all of the suggestions in various combinations. We created a 70x70x6 mm square to make the testing faster.
It started out failing in the same way. Ended up with 215 deg first two layers (they were delaminating at lower temps), 208 for the rest of the part. Fan on (didn't have any effect on the problem). 180 mm/s top layers. As you can see in the picture, the test
by
djzman
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Printing
ggherbaz,
Thank you for the quick reply. I understand what you are saying, I will try a specific test at lower temps, higher speeds. But a few things still do not add up.
The problem is not sagging, it's just the opposite. The individual strands are raising up (convex) a major portion of a mm and/or pillowing up, not down.
Also, why does the small cube work perfectly at 225 deg, 100 mm/s?
by
djzman
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Printing
Hi all ... I have to say at the outset that I have read many replies to similar issues ... something here just doesn't compute, however.
Appologies if I'm missing something easy ...
So, just to provide some relevant background ... I have had my MakerFarm i3v up and running for several months and have gotten some really nice prints. Using the default settings from MakerFarm (225 deg, 100 mm/sec
by
djzman
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Printing
Ohmarinus,
Completely agree. We've started viewing the gcode before printing.
We're also getting more familiar with the slic3r options and parameters.
Thanks for the advice.
by
djzman
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General
OK, apparently the STL needed to be repaired by a program called netfabb ... mystery solved ... Buddha printed successfully.
by
djzman
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General
Hi all ...
Just got my MakerFarm 10" Prusa i3v up and running and printed a couple of things:
a hollow cube
a knob for the LCD controller
a fan bracket
... all successfully.
I used PLA, slic3r 0.9.9 (on Windows) as recommended by Makerfarm and have been running only out of the SD card. I used the slic3r config files that were recommended for download in the MakerFarm assembly manual. Again
by
djzman
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General
Hello all ... don't know if this is relevant any more or not but thought I'd add what worked for me. I'm running Ubuntu 12.04 LTS and RAMPs 1.4.
I tried the generic apt install pyserial to get the packages that pronterface needs as documented in many instruction sets on the topic. As many have discovered, the baud rate of 250000 generates an error. The suggestion in multiple forums was to app
by
djzman
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General