Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 11 of 11
Thanks for the link and the input. I switched over to PLA to try printing that (since I started with PETG) and the PLA prints are coming out near perfect with mostly just temp modifications. I don't have a great deal of experience with PETG, since my Original PRUSA I3 MK1 tends to wear out PTFE tubes when printing that due to temp. After looking at the test prints, I was thinking that the prin
by
webdad
-
Printing
I had an earlier thread regarding my first layer, and that has been resolved with a combination of the new Titan extruder and refinement of the print settings for my DuetWiFi install and S3D settings. Printing in general is now working but I'm getting fair amount of inconsistent blobbing and what looks like under extrusion in some areas but over in others.
As a recap here is my build:
"D-Bot B
by
webdad
-
Printing
So, I upped my extruder power from 1200 to 1600 and set the temp to 200.
After heating to 200 I then just extruded 10 - 20 mm to move the filament forward (I had left the filament loaded over the past few days). That seemed to be going ok, and the extrusion seemed to be more responsive.
I tried doing a few prints, but nothing seemed to be extruding much at all, or sticking to the painters tap
by
webdad
-
Printing
ayudtee - Thanks for the tip on the Z baby stepping, I was wondering what that did.
I've been thinking of going to something more substantial for the extruder since the "stock" build one seems to a little sparse. I was looking at the Titan as an option. I'll have to look and see if I can find a d-bot v-slot frame mount for that.
The Titan can support direct drive as well as bowden configura
by
webdad
-
Printing
Thanks. I'll dial back the temp to 195 - 200 and see if things look better.
I also have some Matchbox and Atomic PETG that I can use. Any general recommendations for temp on that?
by
webdad
-
Printing
I calibrated the extruder feedrate, basically following Sanladerer's technique and measuring the filament pushed out the end of the feed tube without going through the hotend.
I've been printing at 220c to 225c, and it looks stable on the Duet web console.
I haven't had the "clicking" of the extruder, but do have situations where the filament appears to stop and the extruder grinds some of the
by
webdad
-
Printing
I've started tuning my DBot build, and I'm having a problem with the first layer intermittently leaving gaps of fairly large size on lines of extrusion. I'm printing on blue painters tape, and I've used a gap gauge to set the bed height to 0.11mm. Filament is PLA
Here is a sample picture:
I tend to think that the regular nature of the gaps points towards the extruder / hotend not getting p
by
webdad
-
Printing
Thanks everyone.
Couple of thoughts:
1. I've grown accustomed to being able to remove the glass on my Prusa and get medieval on it if necessary with my removal tool in order to remove the print. Letting it rest for an extended period works as well, and then, with the aquanet, it generally just pops off. I recognize that the plate is just as flat, but, for the time being, I'm going to keep wit
by
webdad
-
General
Thanks for the feedback folks.
For reference, I'm using 1.75mm filament. The extruder is a printed extruder that is part of the standard DBot build (D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer, I'm considering looking for something more substantial once I get the basics running.
I have also left filament in the extruder, on the spool for a few days, but it was PLA and when I came back to do something, it snapp
by
webdad
-
General
I've been printing away on my Original Prusa i3 MK1 for the past year and a half, and over the summer I sourced and built a 300 x 300 x 300 DBot with a number of mods as well as full E3D V6 hot end, aluminum MIC6 heat bed (grounded to AC ground), AC silicone heater pad (184c TCO siliconed to underside), DuetWiFi controller (love how this is set up and works), all running from a GFCI power strip.
by
webdad
-
General
I've been following along and have all of the parts for this, except one - teflon sleeving for the TCO leads. Any ideas on where to source that? Since the leads on my Keenovo heat pad are longer than I need, one thought was to cut some off the end, remove the internal wire, and slide that over the TCO leads.
Any other thoughts?
As far as silicone RTV for attaching directly to the heat bed,
by
webdad
-
General