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Sublime,
Thnaks for the info on the 8.4 size problem. Thought it was just me. It is not off by much but makes parts not fit together well.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Slic3r
Sublime,
Thanks for the tip. Confirmed Marlin 1.0 rc2 fixed the problem.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Slic3r
Thanks for the info. Have been thinking about upgrading to RC2 anyway.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Slic3r
Is there any way to get Slic3r to generate gcode without the ; comments in the gcode? Marlin 1.0 interprets the ; as a retract command.
Although I like the fact that Slic3r puts all the settings in the gcode, Marlin 1.0 has issues with it. When I send the gcode to the SD card via Pronterface it strips off the comments and everything works fine. Sending the gcode that way takes almost as long
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jimcking
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Slic3r
Although I have not noticed missing steps, I have noticed missing retracts. Have decided that for me I always print directly from the SD card for best quality.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
nophead,
Sorry, I did not notice that part of your request.
The model is at:
Thing 22268
That plane flies great with a 5/8” 6/32 bolt in the nose, about 30 degrees of up elevator, and 15 degrees dihedral. When launched with a #64 rubber band it will fly to a height of about 50 ft., loop and then glide gracefully to the ground
Thanks for all of the help you have given me. I follow all of
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Cameron,
Initially I had both belts running over the idlers on the cogs with the T-5 belts per the original Prusa build instructions. After noticing the herringbone pattern on both the X and Y dimensions of a box I was building and reading nopheads information on turning the belt 180 degrees so that the smooth side of the belt ran on the idlers, I turned the X axis belt 180 degrees. Although t
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
I have an SAE Prusa that I built. Not a kit. Used machined pulleys for the T-5 also.
Jim K.
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jimcking
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Reprappers
Just thought I would post this picture of the difference I got after switching from T-5 Belts to T-2.5 Belts. The belts and pullies were an exact replacement so did not have to change anything in firmware.
Got them here:
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
You have to "Home" all Axis before you can manually move in the direction of home. Will only go one way until then.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Hornet,
I am using Marlin 1.0 with Pronterface and Sanquinololu also using these settings:
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor
// 2 is 200k thermistor
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high t
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Marlin 1.0 should work just like Sprinter. When I hit home all axis in Marlin, all of the axis move to the home position.
Jim K.
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jimcking
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Reprappers
8mm rod will work fine. Although 8mm is just very slightly larger than 5/16, my SAE PRUSA was made with the metric X plastic. SAE really just refers to the nuts, bolts, and threaded rod.
Welcome to the reprap and Have Fun with the printer. It is fascinating.
Jim K.
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jimcking
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Reprappers
Has anyone else noticed that they get better print quality when they use SD Print rather than print directly from the computer?
When trying to print the Windsor Chair (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21999), I noticed that Slic3r produced Gcode that was missing parts of the chair. Although, I am not sure the cause of this, I think it might have something to do with the parts being very small.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
A flat on the shaft solved the problem for me. Some people press the gear on. The stepper motor should stall before the gear will slip.
You might try not using the heringbone gears. I am using the straight gears and the stepper motor stalls but the gear does not slip.
Jim K.
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jimcking
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Reprappers
Have you tried a filiament guide? I find it works much better.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Thanks jezmy,
Tried the new version Slic3r (0.7.0) and as you said it works with cool. Also, it does not have the underlap problem that Sfact has for me.
I turned off clip and nearly everthing else on Sfact and the underlap problem still occurred. The underlap or overlap changes depending on what the print is and it's orientation.
Guess I will just switch to Slic3r. Anyone know if it can be
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Thanks to both of you for all the information on this. I am starting to understand what is going on a lot more now.
nophead,
I really feel dumb about this. Have not been able to find where to adjust the amount of retract. Marlin 1.0 has an adjustment for retract acceleration. It is set for 3000 mm/sec/sec now. Did not see any option on how to turn it off.
In SFact Dimention I found retrac
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jimcking
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Reprappers
nophead,
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! I really appreciate you doing this for me. Now I know what it can look like and will not rest until I get the settings right to do it. Will try those retract settings.
Thanks Again,
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
DeuxVis,
Attached is the gcode file from SFact and the stl file that was used for the print that is in the picture. Used Pronterface to print it.
Maybe you could print it and take a picture of your results so I can get an idea of where to go?
Thanks,
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
nophead
Thanks for the info. Have tried 3000 and 7000 for retract and have not seen any difference. Will try others.
What electronics are you using?
Thanks,
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
nophead
Thanks for the information. Clip like all the other variables is set to the default. As yo can see from the sample print, it has both underlap and overlap depending on where it is. It is also very consistant as is shown by the even spacing on the top half. Have never seen the extruder stall except when the temperature is too low. It really doen't stall then either, the hobbed bolt j
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
I never changed anything in the slic3r. It is all default. Just downloaded it and ran it. Marlin 1.0 is also default for the SAE Prusa. Just selected SAE Prusa and sanguinololu in the configuration.h
Jim K.
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jimcking
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Reprappers
Forgot to mention that yes I do have retract turned on at 7000 mm/sec/sec (the default). Don't think it is a retract issue.
Jim K.
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jimcking
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Reprappers
Attached are the stl file and the scad file that created it. It is a repair part for a sliding door. I picked it because it is small and shows the problem. It occurs on all prints. Somtimes it is not noticeable.
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Are you using the furnace putty over the nichrome wire? Here is a link to the directions for the Makergear Hot End using nichrome wire:
Jim K.
by
jimcking
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Reprappers
Is anyone else having Perimeter Underlap problems? As you can see from the Photo, the start and end of the perimeter do not meet. The size of the gap varies depending on the object and where it is on the build platform. The results are the same with Sprinter, Marlin .9 and Marlin 1.0 firmware. By the way Marlin seems to produce much smoother and faster prints. The results are also the same us
by
jimcking
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Reprappers