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Between last month and this month I have been home 18 days. So have done nothing.
I had started work on a Rack and Pinion frame that I can print, but have done nothing since May on it.
I want to use the "cubed" heated pad which I think is 12" x 18" and get a full 10" in height. Just because.
I did get some ABS and now need to rebuilt my PLA X carriage it sagged pretty badly. Still prints
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Yep i would call that close enough as well.
For some reason I was thinking you were using the PVA glue solution. When i look back you did say sugar.
I really like printing with the PLA better but thought it worth while trying the ABS. I had planned on making a new X carriage and ABS would seem better because it can take higher heat.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
nophead thank you , I have read most of your blog. I really appreciate your hard work.
.25/.0063=40 So should be good, but you knew that already.
I haven't actually checked to see if the screws are a true 1.25 pitch but they appear to be correct I am getting decent results in the Z for my prints.
John
I did print with ABS last night. After a while the print looked pretty good. Took quite
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Had to rethink why I chose .25mm but I believe I am correct for my machine.
200 steps/rev * 16 = 3200 steps per rev.
I am using a 8 x 1.25 mm screw (looked better than the 5/16" all thread they had)
or 0.000390625mm per step
.25 / 0.000390625 = 640 so a even amount of steps goes into getting a .25 mm step height.
Or am I thinking wrong?
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
I really need to try the ABS I have sitting in the corner.
I like PLA, but should see what else I can break.
Spent quite a bit of time leveling my table, I don't use the springs seemed too wobbly for me.
I have the plywood bolted directly to my bearings via zip ties was getting it as close to the the bearing as possible.
Had to notch the underside of the plywood to clear the rod holders so I co
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
On the spacing of the motor I have washers between my large pulley and the body to get where it fits. Fine tuning done on the motor shaft with the pulley.
Didn't have it quite right at first wore heaver on the one side of the gear for a bit. but could see it after a hour or so of printing and played with it some more.
I really need to reprint those gears now that I have it running better with the
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
John
I keep playing with mine, have had the table apart 3 times in the last month. I don't use it that much so I am not having the issues with bolts loosening yet , but do try to keep an eye on it. You can also use finger nail polish, it acts a lot like the blue thread lock. Just use a color that the misses doesn't like much or get your own.
I started using the glue mixture(Tite Bond II),
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
I used a Arduino Mega to drive the Xylotex.
The issue with going through the parallel port with the Xylotex is there are not enough inputs.
By using the Mega I was able to have it think it had a Ramps board attached.
If your current machine is 3 axis and you don't mind making a stand alone controller for the extruder heat you could get away with it.
I see in Slic3r they have Mach3 output. I d
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Sweet, I still haven't printed ABS finally got my bed to go over 100C I have 4ea 14g a. wire running to the PCB bed 2 for + and 2 for -.
But it takes quite a long time to get there. The head does not take that long to get to the 230 temp though.
What is the ratio for the sugar solution and how do you apply it?
Thanks
Glenn
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
I would guess your screws have a bow.
Try shimming up your motor so it wont fall and loosen the Z coupling and gently, by hand rotate, the screw once or twice maybe it will help center it better in the coupling.
I left my Z motors loose slightly so they can move as well. One side rocks some the other is quite still, it really is down to how straight the all thread is, i believe.
One more thin
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Followed pretty much what Joseph Prussa's method said. My table is different I don't have a second one any more.
Removed some mass that way. My I level the PCB corners and attach the glass on top with the clips. I do need to insulate the bottom of the PCB.
I am only getting to 105c even with 12.3 volts at the PCB. Using window glass from Lowes.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
NOM4dIC
If you stop as, Nophead suggested, on the first layer and measure that thickness. it should match the thickness you selected in Slic3r or just under.
A cheap set should be fine. I have a $15 dial pair at home that I checked against a digital Mitutoyo $120pair that I use for work, they both give me the same measurement to 3 places in inches, but YMMV.
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gadman58
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General
I got this at Ultimachine. They are more money than theFuteris3d but the freight is cheaper so about the same price for the product. I had bought from them before nice outfit.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Just used the STL's. Don't think I even ran them thru netfab
Yep that is what I have been doing us what I have make better if I can. Gives you something to learn on.
i am pretty proud of my prints now although have not printed anything since Easter. Honey do list has me hoping..
I just now got in some ABS, I need to give that a try. I really like printing with the PLA so far though.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
I printed this wades from Here.
It is printed in PLA. Sorry for the quality of the photos.
Here is a picture of the gears, reprinted the small one this one did not turn out so well,
It went together pretty easily. I didn't think I had any of your issues. My drive bolt is different so I have more washers spacing the gear out.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Pay close attention to your screws. I have one that has a slight bow it causes a wobble on the one side, I left the motor loose.
I was looking at small acmes for the next upgrade, after I make a new frame.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
So very close to the same on the extruders.
I have one like you are talking about in a cast plastic for a 1/4" to 1/2" for an encoder, sitting in my don't throw away box, but don't have any that worked so I use some printed ones from LulzBot.
Make a square notch through and slide in a 5/16" nut. Shouldn't need internal threads that way. A second nut on top to keep everything from spinning, I
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Looking good.
This is what I ordered from McMaster, 88625K67 O1 Tool Steel Tight-Tolerance Rod, 8 Millimeter Diameter, 3' Length. They have a semi dull finish so are not perfectly chrome plated smooth but seem to work ok.
This one here, pretty close to what you have I think.
I had planned on making those couplers but was looking for the tubing that goes over the shaft before I did. I have
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
Bearings can be an issue depends on the bearing and the shaft.
Is the shaft very shiny or is it dull looking?
Did you oil them before you put them on. I used chain lube.
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
PriceCw
i would try slic3r if I were you. The settings are not near as difficult for a newb like me to get your head around. Check out RichRaps blog he walks you through the settings
I was printing pretty reliably after the first print.
You would just pre slice then bring the Gcode into ReplicatorG.
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gadman58
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General
Thank you
Minor things, mostly created by my use of non standard parts.
The Xylotex board extruder drive chip got fried. The Xylotex is setup for NEMA 23 motors so the stepper connections were pretty good size screw connectors. I suspect I pushed the small wires to far in and caught part of the insulation which let it come loose. One day I turned it on the motors jumped heard a pop and the
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group
I just finished mine. I guess it is technically a RepStrap.
It is built with MDF, UHMW not sure what the green plastic is and then the standard Prusa Mendal vitamins.
I patterned the frame after the RonThomp Mendel because it was easy to cut out on my DIY router.
For electronics it has a PC power supply sadly only 10 amps so no heated table yet. Arduino 2560 connected to a Xylotex stepper driv
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gadman58
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New Mexico, Albuquerque - RepRap User Group