Hi, Sorry to point this out but I'm afraid that it won't be easier to assemble than the regular acrylic case model. The hardest step in reguard to assembley is getting the cables on and tensioned. Everyone seems to agree that the printed version is more challenging than the acrylic case because of the lip on the top of the case. The lip on the top of your case appears to block acess to the cablby cns1 - Tantillus
I'm running the latest version of S3D at work, and in either the extrusion tab or the ooze control section there is a setting referred to a coast, if it works in the way that the description leads me to believe then that setting will halt extrusion a specified distance before the machine either changes direction or moves the extruder to a different location or layer. If I undrstand this setting cby cns1 - Tantillus
The heat sinks in my opinion do run quite hot, I would go by motor temp as well, it's OK if the motors get warm especially after a long print just make sure they don't get hot. If the heat sinks are hot, but the motors are cool to the touch on a long print then it is likely that the motors can handle more current, which may solve your layer shift problem. Check out this link, nophead has a greatby cns1 - Tantillus
You need to make sure you have set the jumpers for your motor drivers to 1/8th stepping for those motors. The processor can't handle generating that many steps per rotation to keep up with the stock profiles. Also your holding torque per micro-step should be theoretically higher which may help keep the motors from skipping. Unfortunately if they are set to 16th stepping you will have to redo theby cns1 - Tantillus
Thank you so much for the response, great technique. Beautiful print BTW.by cns1 - Look what I made!
Looks like the X/Y gears are slipping on the shaft, probably motor shaft. If you haven't already you may want to file some flats on the X/Y motor shafts, also check the hub on the X/Y motor gears they are famous for breaking. I've gone through 3 sets.If they have cracked or broken around the nuts, re-print them with at least 70% infill, %100 if you can find a machine that can do it. Could be theby cns1 - Tantillus
I'll take a crack at it... Guess 1), using sound linear motion design practice, the other side of the shaft should be supported by a bearing in that application, most motors that are readily available to rep-rappers world wide come with too short a shaft, or the shaft has a flat on one or both sides. Guess 2), the distance that you can move an axis using cable drive is limited by the amount ofby cns1 - Tantillus
Could you explain the cold vapor polishing technique you used? Thanksby cns1 - Look what I made!
Flemming, Hey, just for the heck of it would you please wait till your hot-end is cooled down to room temp. hold the carrage steady with one hand an grab the nozzel by the heater block and see if you have any play (wiggle) between the J-head groove mount and the piece of plexi in the X-Y carriage. I had what I thought was Z wobble it turned out to be a broken/loose carriage/hot-end mount. If thby cns1 - Tantillus
Quotejimjimma Damn, just realised that image I posted wasn't publicly accesible. Try again. Is that a water cooled thermal break?by cns1 - Tantillus
Have you gotten a chance to test fit the Igus plane bearings yet? I ask because those bearings/bushings are 16mm O.D. and the printed ones they will be replacing are 15mm O.D. Based on your shaft measurement I'm curious to know if, 1) you can compress the Igus bushings into the un-modified X-Y ends without breaking the printed part and 2) after compressing them appx. 1mm will you still have a comby cns1 - Tantillus
Congratulations!!!! That's a great print especially for a second I'm really impressed.by cns1 - Tantillus
There is a small momentary push button switch on the Arduino board that is the microcontrollers reset switch, if you solder some wires across the switch and run them outside the case to a large momentary on button switch it will serve as an emergency stop. That way if anything ever goes wrong again you won't have to helplessly watch in horror as you bot destroys itself in slow motion.by cns1 - Tantillus
jimjimma Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I fully intend to enclose this thing and I'm > looking at 12v heaters to get the ambient temp up > to 50/60 degrees to reduce the thermal contraction > issues. The rumba board I'm using has spare ports > for a chamber heater. The power supply to run a heater pad that size in 12 volt is rediculous, likby cns1 - Tantillus
I get mine from local suppliers, they are generally sold anywhere you can find machining supplies, so if there is a shop near you that sells end mills, step-clamps, dials, gauges and such that's the place you'll find deburring bits (also known as burrs), as well as the tapping fluid. Usually I have to have the smaller stuff special ordered, they're generally made down to 1/16". I think you mentioby cns1 - Tantillus
Hi, I've done some work with hardened steel and the trick is to up the flute count on your tool to get things started. Try using a couple of small carbide deburring bits at the lowest RPM possible with Castrol Moly Dee taping fluid (expensive but worth it). You have to be really careful about the work hardening here so light pressureand lots of Molly Dee. The key is to find a deburring bit whoseby cns1 - Tantillus
Hey, at least you got credit this time and it looks like he did the Tantillus some justice.by cns1 - Tantillus
How do you plan to route the wireing for the carrage?by cns1 - Tantillus
I found the website, apparently the new extruder design is 9:1 ratio, I'm sure it will be great for torque (even though the tantillus extruder has enough torque to strip filament like crazy), but I'm not too sure about getting high enough retract speeds for a Bowden at that ratio.by cns1 - Tantillus
That's pretty blatant. Where did you find this?by cns1 - Tantillus
For the longer X/Y rods I've been considering what SDP-SI calls a pipe shaft, which they offer in 8mm with a 3mm bore, the tubular rod should be a little stiffer for the longer span and lighter weight to reduce the mass of the system. Only problem is they are quite expensive at $35.65 each for 300mm length, which is the bummer. If anyone knows of a cheaper source for such a rail please let me knoby cns1 - Tantillus
That is one of the finest looking printers I've ever seen excellent job! One question though if you were to expand the build platform to a 200 x 200 mm table for example why couldn't you just use 2 of the cable driven Z's on each side of the table with two steppers run in parallel? Wouldn't that let you keep the speed and "jerk" relatively the same to the smaller machine, and would'nt the 4 rodsby cns1 - Tantillus