Changing the config_adv.h file fixed the problem. But now I'm wondering if there are other settings in the Tantillus specific config.h and/or config_adv.h files that would be of benefit to print quality... Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Are you using my version of Marlin? If not you > will need to set Marlin to use Relative extrusion. > Kisslicer does not output the code to change > Marlin the way some other slicers do. You can > manually add the code to set Marlin to Relative in > the start code or change the setting in Marlins > advanby cfellows - Tantillus
The Relative E setting is correct and the filament size is set to 3. Prime and Suck are both set to 5, Wipe is set to 10. Flow Tweakis set to 1. Anything else I should look at? Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
I've been messing around with Kisslicer on my Tantillus. I downloaded the Kisslicer configurations from tantillus.org. After slicing the 20 x 20 x 10 test cube I load the gcode file into pronterface to print. All the movements seem good except the extruder. It doesn't seem to be extruding anywhere near enough filament, so it basically isn't printing. Slic3r, by contracts, does a nice prinby cfellows - Tantillus
I've begun prototyping my version of Goopyplastics variant. I printed the top 4 corners and one of the bottom corners. I then decided to see try something different on the bottom. The bottom corners are made of aluminum. They are functional and very strong but I don't like the looks of them so I've resumed printing Goopyplastic's bottom corners. The base is 3/4" MDF and I may decide to keepby cfellows - Tantillus
I have a Tantillus with a 5" square aluminum print platform 1/4" thick. I would like to add a heating system to bring the temperature up to about 60 degrees centigrade for printing PLA. I have a 415 watt coil of nichrome wire that has a total resistance of about 18 ohms. When I apply 13 volts DC across it, it brings the temperature up to something over 150 degrees very quickly. I'm thinkingby cfellows - General
Robonz Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you make a direct drive system like this I > think you could use the stepper as the bearing for > one end, kinda like Sublime's idea of drilling the > ends of the shafts. You could still use a coupler > but the coupler could be solid. > > Have you thought about using belts instead of the > string?by cfellows - Tantillus
So here's a further questions. Why no just hook the red and black wires up to the + and - 12 volts and run the fans at full speed. If not full speed, what does the software use to determine the proper speed? Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
pokey9000 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you don't plan on a heated bed, you can > repurpose the HBP FET to run the fan. > > What I did was to pull out the AVR, bend pin 18 > (HOTBED) out a bit, then reinsert it so that pin > sits outside the socket. Then solder a wire on > the back of the board between AVR pin 5 (PB4-PWM) > and AVR pby cfellows - Tantillus
What is the length of your horizontal and vertical 2020 beams? Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
Regardless of the politics, I would like to take the opportunity to express a huge thanks to everyone who has contributed their time and effort to the reprap open source community, particularly those who helped develop and contributed to the software as well as those who selflessly made their design stl and cad files available. I think you have made an immeasurable contribution to the maker commby cfellows - General
Thanks, Pokey, that's a good tip. I was wondering how I could use the heated bed connection on the Sanguinololu. Here's a video of my first print (sans cooling fans). TantillusFirstPrint Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
Nice! Did you write the g-code to exercise the axes? Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
The Tantillus original is mechanically and electrically ready to print. Only thing left is to remount the fans and figure out how to hook them up to the Sanguinololu board. I will be using the Tantillus to print the parts needed for the variant that I'm also building. Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
Just occurred to me that putting the belts and pulleys outside the case might make connecting the belt to the carriages kind of tricky.... Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
I've decided to take my Tantillus upgrade a big step further. I'm going to convert it to Goopyplastics variant. I ordered the 2020 beam from Misumi today and will start printing the plastic parts tomorrow. I also plan to replace the spectra cabling with belts. I plan to mount the pulleys and belts on the outside of the case. Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
Haven't posted for a while. I was having a problem with an intermittent error with the thermistor (which I had disabled) while trying to get the motor movements working and in the right direction. I finally discovered that the wires connected to the thermistor input were shorting out through some melted insulation. I replaced the wire and am getting close to my firstprint. Only thing left isby cfellows - Tantillus
Anybody got any tips or hints on mounting a thermistor on a jhead without breaking off a lead?by cfellows - General
Up until recently, the MakerBot I've been using had an acrylic build platform covered with blue painter's tape. I print PLA parts at 230 C, and prying the finished parts off was a real struggle, even with a putty knife. They have now replaced the build platform with aluminum covered with painter's tape and getting the parts of is much easier. I guess it must have something to do with the alumiby cfellows - General
Which version of the Sanguinololu firmware are you using? Were you able to compile and download the firmware to the Arduino?by cfellows - General
I've never tried it but it seems to me that parts printed for a 6mm sheet will not fit over 1/4" acrylic, which is 0.014" thicker. Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
I expect the steppers and electronics would translate directly to the Tantillus. The z-axis screw looks like it might also work. Can't tell how big the rods are on the Printrbot. The Tantillus wants 4 lengths of 5/16" drill rod for the outside x-y rods. Two of them are 7 3/4"long and the other two are 8 1/2". You can use bronze bushings or printed PLA bushings on the outside carriages. Theby cfellows - Tantillus
Started restringing the Tantillus tonight. Not a job for the impatient or faint of heart! I did find that a dental pick, one of a set I bought at Harbor Freight, made the job a lot easier. There's one pick in particular, with a triple angled pick on each end, that really helped, especially with my stiff sausage fingers. Gotta say, replacing the fishing line with timing belts is looking mightyby cfellows - Tantillus
Bought a Toshiba 15v, 6a power supply for my Tantillus. Now I'm having trouble finding a 6.3mm OD x 3.0mm ID Jack. Anybody know where I can get one of these? Chuckby cfellows - General
Got the J-Head pretty well finished. Only thing left is to mount the resistor and the thermistor and try it out! The filament slides all the way in with no catching or binding. Chuckby cfellows - Tantillus
I'm still thinking through the hot end assembly. Part of me wonders if I'm not spending a little too much effort trying to circumvent the use of PEEK for the body. It does seem like the ideal solution. Not giving in yet. Here's my latest design... Trying to keep as much heat away from the PLA carriage as possible. Same with the Corian body. So, closest to the heater block is a 6-32 stainby cfellows - Tantillus
I wasn't real comfortable with the fact that the outside x-y rods were only held in place by the gears and tension on the fishing line. Since there's not enough room for a collar, I decided to install e-clips. Cutting the grooves is pretty easy with a dremel cutoff blade. Of course, having a lathe to mount everything in makes it easier, but I expect a fixture to hold the bar and rotate itby cfellows - Tantillus
I recently acquired a Tantillus from a local enthusiast. It needed some work but the price I paid for it reflected that. I purchased some 8mm hardened shaft from McMaster Carr to replace the middle x-y rods, probably made from unhardened drill rod and pretty rough from from the action of the linear bearings. Also, the printed plastic bushings on the outside x-y rails had quite a bit of slop,by cfellows - Tantillus