Just uploaded both Step and Iges files to my github (both standard and hacked versions) on Probers request if anybody was after them. Anybody had a chance to use or read over the drawings I have done (pdf in the repository of github)? Worried there are probably mistakes in them.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
So I have been trying to make a heated bed for my tantillus for a while now and after a long journey I have something that seems to work. My first go at it was a piece of glass, nichrome wire and a thermistor. The wire and thermistor where bonded to it with thermally conductive glue and then support with a crude ceramic structure for a heat shield. It had 50W of heating grunt. It heated up to 60by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Hmm, I am using polulo black drivers and I set the current by actually measuring the coil current. At the moment they are set to 1.7A, but I might wind them back to 1.5A.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
> Looking good. I like the filament feed bracket. Yeah I had to because the filament kept diving down the side of the diamond age spools and jamming. It would only occur about once every 20hrs of printing but it was so frustrating. > Is the PID controller for the heated bed and/or the > hotend? If you are referring to the 7 seg display on the front panel of the machine that is actuallby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
So about a month ago my printer stopped pushing filament through the extruder. Look like the stepper shaft was slipping on the gear. I thought to myself "da fuk I flatted the shafts really well, tightened the grub screws well and put locktite on them". So after a bit of investigation I found the gear had gone egg shaped and the grub screws had moved: After a bit of thought it dawned on me thatby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Finally got some time (got of my lazy arse) and finished the Bom/Assembly drawings! I have pushed all the files up on github (https://github.com/willworkforplastic/Tantillus). Can people take a look at the pdf and try and find errors/anything more useful information that should be in them. Keep in mind they are really only a supplement to the build instructions on tantillus.org however. Also Iby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Nice! Was that the metric version or original version?by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Oh if I had a dollar for every time I have made that mistake......... Trick I do now is put one dimension on the DXF etc and then hopefully if this is an error in scaling the guy setting the laser cutter will realize when he deletes the dimension.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Sweet design nice work, might give this a go when I install my new compact heated bed (more to come on this, bit more machining and testing to do......). I would love to compare this to a ball screw and see what the accuracy is, something I have always wanted to do at work, but I always fall back on ball screws as they are quick and work well. Pitty about the price though when you have to pay foby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
I am learning master-san. Blue tape on blue tape off.............by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Hmmm I checked the basic mechanical stuff no issue there. Interesting up close under a good microscope shows it is probably an XY issue, slippage/backlash/missing small steps etc. About a 50µm wave though. These are 0.1mm Layers:by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
OH SWEET 50µm layers! If you do get a generic KISSLICER config for this please do share. The Diamond Age filament is really good as well, I went round and had a chat to Vik, who owns the place and he had about 8 repraps setup, so he definitely knows his stuff. Have you got the model for this, I might give it a go once I clear the queue of parts I have to do. Only thing is I seem to be getting abby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
cameronm Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > O1 tool steel So long as it has not been hardened you will be fine. I find using good quality drills/cutting oil/never letting the drill rub helps a lot as well when working with tool steels.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Finally got my printer back together after a bit of an issue with the thermister in the head. Turns out the graphite heatsink paste I used migrated and reacted with the copper leads leaving no more copper, sigh. Anyhow I was going to machine up some feet adapters for my lathe and before putting carbide to steel, I thought it maybe a good idea to check the design first by 3D printing it. Then I thby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
So I am a convert to KISSLICER now, thanks all for the useful info on getting it going, big help. Once I had vomited into my coolant tray for my CNC over the color scheme I really got to like it (so much I was considering helping out and buying a licence). However I tried printing bits out for my metric/imperial tantillus test and I hit a snag when parts require bridging. See the attached shots.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Well I replaced the threaded rod and nuts and all is well again. Turns out I stupidly put in stainless nuts (picked the wrong ones during installation) on stainless threaded rod and even with grease they just galled/wear'ed on each other. Running steel nuts on Stainless threaded rod now with high quality grease, so I will see how that goes. Out of interest has anybody done any research into miby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Found issue with lower bed mounting screw holes being different to imperial version (not major), I have updated and pushing to git now. Also put hack laser cutting files in hack folder to avoid confusion.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
About a week ago, my tantillus started getting a very rough layer consistency on it. Photo attached, but is very hard to see without proper microscope. Both gcodes where generated on KISS slicer (awesome find by the way). To combat this I have tried: 1. Cleaning nozzle out put letting material cool in it and then pulling out 2. Checking all tensions on cables 3. Tried different flow rates 4. Rebby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Hacks/laser cutting machines basically, at this stage: All Panels 6mm - This is the standard design for metric, or the safe option. Essentially a copy of the original design. Probably best to stick to this. All Panels 6mm VLS6_60 0_1mm Offset - This has been panelized for a laser cutter bed size of 457 X 812 and the outter/bearing dims offset by 0.1mm (laser spot size of 0.2mm) so if you haveby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Eric Young Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > lol adhesives are a tempting mistress Awesome I am going to print that out and stick it on my fridge at work which is packed with glues.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Right, I am just pushing new files to github now. Basically all updated to be backwards compatible with original imperial design, plus a few hacks included for anybody interested. See readme for full details. Also production files all there, no nested files, but I did check them all with Netfab this time, so hopefully they are better than last time. I am going to Laser cut and print both versionby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
A bit of loctite 290 wicking grade retaining compound helped me out preventing shafts wandering through bearings, a bit back as well. If I will ever get the shafts out of the bearings in the future however I do not know...............by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Mmmmm Nylon, glue's favorite cousin. I might give this a go in the new year, and try and make a Macor thermal break.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Oh classic mine started doing the exact same thing on the Y axis every 4 hours or so of printing last weekend. Had a about 1.5Kg run through the machine before this as well with no major issues. A few things seemed to have helped me out: 1. Brushed the dust out of the gears caused by them wearing in with a tooth brush. PLA dust was piling up causing high spots. 2. Retention the fishing line oby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Hey Sublime, I have been checking over the SW model and I just wanted to check on the XY ends the majority of the hole for the printed bush is suppose to be 15.5mm diameter. I assume the bush being 15mm only engages on the last bit of the hole being, and as per your instructions you drill into bush and bolt then holds bush in.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
hi Nico3ck I have managed to start re-visiting my metric conversion of the design to get it compatible with imperial version, and I have noticed a few mistakes on my behalf: 1. Corner snap hocks differ to imperial ones 2. One of the laser cut panels has a 0.25mm bearing hole pitch mistake 3. Not enough clearance in the 8mm holes on the XY ends should be 8.2mm So I will correct as soon as possiby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
All the design files for my one are up on github now: CAD/STLs/DXF/artwork and even artwork for laser engraving are all there if anybody wants them.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
That one fine looking print! I so have to try it! You should have a top 10 insane/epic Tantillus prints page on your website for this sort of stuff!by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Here is the process I go through now after a lot of mucking around. Not saying it the best way (probably overkill), but it seems to work really well for me. I do it for every print now: 1. Peel off any old blue tape from the glass platter. Try to peel it off as clean as possible. 2. Clean the glass well with cloth and acetone. There should be no streaks on glass once acetone has dried. 3. Putby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
> The heat issue is true, although quick > cuts should only generate enough heat to locally > modify the rods, i.e. only at the very ends. Periodically dipping in coolant can prevent this. Similar to sharpening a drill/HSS lathe tool if you have a lot to take of the cutting edge.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus