HI Eric, It looks like all of your motors and thermosistor are connected opposite of mine (white text on other side). Not that mine's fxning well yet, but it seems to be right. HTH, cheers!by ernchesto - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @ Ernchesto > > I believe I understand. The instructions have you > start with the rear cable because it is the > hardest to do and the first one usually needs the > least re-tensioning because you are not fighting > any other cable. I should add a note that it is > easiest to remove the Z stage if yby ernchesto - Tantillus
One thing that sticks in my mind is that I found the endstop is strange, in terms of order for z-axis install. Anyway, I found I'd installed the z-axis without the endstop on! Also, as Eric noted, the cable winding could use some love. Although I was lucky in most of my cable install, I did manage to redo the rear y-axis cable (the least accessible) due to winding the wrong direction on the (secby ernchesto - Tantillus
Ikes! I'm with the canine.. I'm curious - I have my fans turned the opposite direction. I've yet to make them run, so I'm not sure which way they're going to blow. I'm guessing you're in no position to test this One of us has it backwards, and I'm sure you're dog is hoping it's me.by ernchesto - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ernchesto Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > >"Can you try typing in G28 Y0 and see if the Z > > moves? If it moves it is a problem in the > firmware > > that i will have to look into. If it does not > it > > is a problem with the pronterface buttby ernchesto - Tantillus
>"Can you try typing in G28 Y0 and see if the Z moves? If it moves it is a problem in the firmware that i will have to look into. If it does not it is a problem with the pronterface button." tried it and it set Z - home, nothing more. BTW - I learned last night not to 'put' the XY anywhere while the machine was powered on! I did in a fit of fatigue and f*^ked all the cable tension up!! Goodby ernchesto - Tantillus
Glad you enjoyed Eric - to be truthful, I've been dying to use the beers clanging emoticon. That thing is awesome Yeah, pronterface thinks Y-home is Z-home. To be fair, I've not yet set a home location. So I'll cut it some slack until then..by ernchesto - Tantillus
Well - I just experimented with jamming the extruder tip through the glass. Background: my X has been somewhat absent since I messed with the servo pot bidna. I actually swapped it out with the extruder one and it worked a bit - so I turned it up (clockwise) a few degrees, and there it was - gone! My Y works pretty well in one direction, but the other is limited. Anyway, I just hit X-home -&gby ernchesto - Tantillus
Strange, I thought I responded to your post Brad, but I don't see it here. Must have hit a wrong button.. It went something like this: - Thanks for the answers. No worries about the inconveniences, it's a pretty complex piece of kit.-by ernchesto - Tantillus
Anyone have any ideas why one wouldn't be able to nudge the z-axis upward (Z+) - it refuses to move any closer to the endstop than about 40mm. When I Z-home, it immediately blasts right up to the endstop. The reason I ask (aside from the obvious) is that I've shifted the endstop as high as it will go, and I don't want the extruder tip to smash the glass.by ernchesto - Tantillus
OK - I've found some issues with my build that have brought up questions I have for Sublime. I also hope that pointing these out might help other builders. 1 - max build height I'm getting is only ~93mm. I'm wondering how I can eek out that last 7mm? (see image) 2 - still having issues with getting the build platform any closer to the extruder than this. (see image) 3 - I'm getting interferenby ernchesto - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ernchesto Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Sublime Wrote: > > > -------------------------------------------------- > > > ----- > > > No problem. I may or may not make it back for > > the > > > meeting on Wednesday. > > >by ernchesto - Tantillus
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I'm toying with it right now. Thus far I've managed to kill the X entirely But at least now it's becoming demystified. I'll post my progress..by ernchesto - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No problem. I may or may not make it back for the > meeting on Wednesday. Excellent. No big rush - I set it up with the 1.25" bolts - but questions have arisen!! I'm still ~10mm off the bed when I bring it up as high as it will go. I moved the endstop up as high as I could without giving its' wires a hard time, but tby ernchesto - Tantillus
I just returned from the Home Depot on Terminal and they didn't have the allen-head units. I grabbed a pack of socket head ones that I'll file down and see how it goes. I don't think I'll be able to get the glass-locating capabilities of the cap-screws, however. Brad, if you have a load of these, I'll retract my previous comment saying that I wouldn't need them. I'd like 4 if you wouldn't mind.by ernchesto - Tantillus
Thanks for the clarification NP. And thanks folks for the clarification on 0,0. I think it's a wise choice, and it's not a big deal to flip one's brain upside down from time to time. I'm wondering what your recommendation is (Sublime) for dealing with this pots / current / stepper issues? Is it a tweak in the code somewhere? I know you've dialed a number of these machines, so I'm interested inby ernchesto - Tantillus
Hmm, I wish I could be of help - but I really don't have much knowledge of this stuff. I hope it gets solved quickly for you.by ernchesto - Tantillus
Lisa - maybe stepping away from the machine would be good You know, a self-solving machine I've gotta get outside myself... NewPerfection - thanks for the verification. I can assure you that I've had no pots today whatsoever Sorry, I had to make light of the fact that I know nothing of pots for stepper drivers - something to learn when I come back inside...by ernchesto - Tantillus
well, the one that I'm running right now is Cooldown - which seems to be a controlled temperature drop. Others I saw were under Prepare: load PLA, preheat PLA, Home, Load Filament, Unload filament, Move Axis,Disable Stepper, Backlight: 000, Lighting: 000, Set Origin, Autostartby ernchesto - Tantillus
Yeah, I'm like dracula with my blinds when the sun beams at them!! And yes, the dial is giving me a whole pile of options, like you describe, and on and on..by ernchesto - Tantillus
OK - I was having a similar experience - until I plugged Tantillus into the wall!! Heated up the hot end immediately. And I was able to move the print head around with the jog buttons. Although the xy feels smooth when I manually slide it around, it seems to be jamming (mostly in X, and only when I go with larger shift units (a little bit of a 'bad' sound and jamming when I hit 10. It seemsby ernchesto - Tantillus
Thanks for your help folks! I figured out that my 2560 drivers weren't properly installed. I installed, and then uploaded the firmware. Now my screen reads 025/000, Tantillus 000% I'm thinking this is a good signby ernchesto - Tantillus
OK - starting to feel like a twit a bit now. From the instructions: "Firmware Download and install the Arduino IDE version 0023. DO NOT use Arduino 1.0 or newer. Select your board type in Arduino menu under "Tools, Board". Arduino Mega 2560 Connect the board to the computer with a USB cable. Select the port in the Arduino menu under "Tools, Serial Port". Download the preconfigured copy of Marliby ernchesto - Tantillus
Ah - thank you Lisa! I suppose I was looking with my 'didn't sleep enough the lastcouplenights' eyes cheers!by ernchesto - Tantillus
When downloading the Marlin Firmware for Tantillus from GitHub, is there a trick to downloading it? The reason I ask is that it seems that there will be tens of separate downloads,and they will be somewhat of a pain to organize due to the submenus. Is there a nice clean way of doing this, rather than downloading each file individually? Thanks!by ernchesto - Tantillus
Yeeehaa! Lisa - it looks like you and I are both on TEAM SILVER!!! (go team!) I just finished my build - although I've yet to heat shrink my heat shrinks - any creative ideas on alternatives when I don't have a hair dryer or heat gun? - and I'm going to go out and grab those longer bed bolts as well. - So I also won't need you to send me anything Brad. I'd also like to say that you certainby ernchesto - Tantillus
"It uses the large herringbone gears with the hex hole on the upper shafts for X and Y. It uses the large herringbone gears with the 4 or 5mm hole on the motors for X and Y." Ah, I see - I only made the XY gear that didn't have the hex in it, and was wondering what was up with the centre hole being too small for the upper shafts. Silly me. "The small gears are for the extruder. The herringboby ernchesto - Tantillus
I've downloaded the SW assy. Thanks so much for making this. It's really helped me to understand the bits and pieces of where things go, and how the parts relate. It certainly will be of great help to reference when assembling Tantillus. BTW - The assy didn't seem to have gears in it in either the .x_t or the .sldasm - is this correct, or did I lose something to the interwebs? I've already madby ernchesto - Tantillus
Good info - despite being environmentally terribleby ernchesto - Tantillus
Very nice work! I'm looking forward to playing with the file (I find meshes to be slightly painful to play with). I concur on the corner reliefs - but have no practical experience using them in acrylic.by ernchesto - Tantillus