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I didn't get a chance to play this week, but did last week, just had no time to post.
I read this on the forum. I have an odd quirk though that in this part of the Forum, things look quite different than they do on the rest of the forum.
Using Chrome. Just though it odd. No delineation between posts and no graphics for forum layout.
I have checked the control panel too.
Lots of great entries as
by
Leeway
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Competitions
I printed one with two 3/8" cylinders sitting beside the bulb for that reason, but my settings were way off on it. It did slice fine though, just had some bridging issues.
by
Leeway
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Competitions
Here is my best effort yet.
New Slic3r
Print time was 78 minutes.
bottom_layer_speed_ratio = 0.65
bridge_fan_speed = 100
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 40
complete_objects = 0
cooling = 0
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
duplicate_distance = 6
extrusion_multiplier = 1
extrusion_width_ratio = 0
fan_always_on = 0
filament_diameter = 2.85
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 0.2
fill_pattern = r
by
Leeway
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Competitions
Are you certain that it is updating the gcode file? I ran into this a time or two. Try changing the file name. I had it outputting to my hard drive before when I expected it to be on my flash drive. Same directory structure, just different drive. It was a head scratcher, then a forehead slapper.
by
Leeway
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General
I agree the challenge on this one is more than just the print. It really maxes out the software.
I tried Kisslicer for the first time as well. That will take several calibration cubes to get right before I jump into something like this with it.
I did get the start of a decent print with it though, but it fouled about 1/3rd way in.
With Slic3r, I have even had my desktop crash the program a few
by
Leeway
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Competitions
I couldn't slice it on my laptop. It kept running out of VM. It worked fine on my desktop.
I tried using my same settings from the tower challenge and they need tweaking.
It is so small that you need to slow down times per layer I think. Printing a couple at a time might help as well. Doubt I will be able to get the 50 min time even dividing by two.
by
Leeway
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Competitions
Congrats, Billy. Great looking print.
Look forward to the new challenge.
by
Leeway
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Competitions
Looks good, Rich.
I did try a couple yesterday.
My results.
This is gold PLA. No heat on the bed. Regular 3M blue tape. Prusa Mendel linear bearings and Gen 6 board.
Sliced with Slic3r 0-8-2.
Temp. 180 C
Speed was too fast on the first print for several settings.
I reduced speed to 30 from 70 for retraction, slowed down to around 50 on everything else including bridging.
That is basically the d
by
Leeway
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Competitions
Not sure what might have become of him, Adrian, but I'm guessing you might know more about that then me.
Congrats on the win, Rich.
I didn't get a chance to print out last weeks, but I have today's printing now. Let you know how it goes.
I agree that there could be a better place to put these than in a forum. That said, a different thread for each weeks attempts might be a way to get the thread
by
Leeway
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Competitions
Using springs inside there can help with this issue.
It does sound like it is binding or something. Also not unheard of to install the wrong thread nuts and still have it function somewhat. Check for cracks in the plastic around the nut housing too. Lastly if none of the above help, disconnect the motors and insure free travel by hand.
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
It's not uncommon on CNC machines to go 20 times the rated voltage of the stepper motor. You don't want to provide more than the rated amps, but for voltage this is typical.
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
I just completed the temp control on mine. I ordered a couple different controllers. The one I am using now is like this one.
Be aware though that it comes as the higher voltage model. I had to run it on 110 VAC. Then I needed a DC/DC SSR. The control voltage on this is like 3 to 32 VDC. My heat bed power supply is 15 amp. I had to get an SSR that would handle that current and voltage. They sel
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
Good stuff there.
Now I have thought about a stove eye being used myself, but what is that other item? Is it a clothes iron?
Other ready made heat sources I have considered is an old crock pot, hot plate, coffee maker etc. What would be super nice would be the small flat glass stove eyes, but I imagine the later would get costly to buy new.
Finally got the correct SSR to use with the Mendel hea
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
Ahh. Okay. Thanks for the info. Most of the prints I do are long rather than tall. Height hasn't yet been an issue, but length has.
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
So you did away with the base plate altogether? How is bed leveling handled? Or is it not an issue?
Thanks.
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
You will want to attach something rigid on there to attach the heated circuit board to. The circuit board isn't designed to be mounted to the bottom plate. No matching holes. Remember that heat changes the rigidity of lots of materials. There are plenty of pictures around. Build it similar to the instructions. Just save yourself the headache and forego any plastic as a bed support on a heated sys
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
If you will be using a heat bed, then you will want something other than plastic. I don't care for MDF at all, so aluminum might work best for you.
Mine has steel from an old metal cutting bandsaw. It was the upright table for freehand cutting. It just happened to be the correct size.
Also it might be a good idea to insulate between the circuit board and the base ou choose.
This will also help ke
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics
I just found a suitabe spring I had on hand and cut it in half. Of course I had already bought 10 of them from Mcmaster Carr.
It works like an anti-backlash nut when you use the spring. Keeps the two nuts pressed to the outer thread and keeps from binding.
by
Leeway
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General Mendel Topics