LiquidTWI2 is a third party library for LCD support that can be found here:by alkempster - Mendel90
Hi Chris, its no problem with your kit. The Cable that was supplied with my kit got snagged on some tools and some of the insulation was stripped off as a result, so i had to replace with similar cable. The rainbow wire is less flexible but was still within bounds for the minimum bend radius for frequent flexing as indicated by the datasheet. The polypropylene strip was installed on the inside oby alkempster - Mendel90
For reference, i started to get periodic cutting out of the heated bed during a print. After stopping the print and checking the power cable for the bed we can see that the power cable failed. This started as snapping of some cores in the cable which reduced the current carrying capacity. Once the current carrying capacity was lowered enough, the wire effectively became a resistor at the point ofby alkempster - Mendel90
mt 2 pence: keep it in series for me. If you wire them in parallel without any positional feedback you run the risk of applying stress if one of the steppers started to skipby alkempster - Mendel90
where are you measuring the hotend at? (I would expect there to be a hotter temperature reported inside the hotend than the surface) are you using the supplied pneumatic fittings on the cold end?by alkempster - Plastic Extruder Working Group
another thing to look at would be to check if the nut is binding anywhere on the threaded rod, does it happen in the same z-height or is it at random heights?by alkempster - Mendel90
wrong section try posting here: , good luckby alkempster - Mendel90
i wouldn't recommend PLA, it would sit too close to the hotend and start to melt!by alkempster - Mendel90
the fan should run constantly even when not printing. I added extra wiring to mine to connect straight to the melziby alkempster - Mendel90
the thermistor and heater element both go onto the small pcb, just like the j-head configuration, polarity is not important. Like i said, for the cooling fan you need to find 12v to power it on at all times, on mine, the red wire goes to the same connector as the yellow cable from the power supply into the melzi. the black cable goes to the negative etemp connector on the melzi. Don't forget to aby alkempster - Mendel90
the fan has to be wired in to always on, i wired mine to 12vin and etemp-. i set my maximum heat to 280 because of the PTFE liner, you wont often need anything greater than this thoughby alkempster - Mendel90
a few to try: - slippage on the left side smooth rod clamp - binding on the threaded rods (check for damaged threads, try greasing - nuts not fully seated in the x-end clamps - loose screw on the bed - slicer of choice bed offsetby alkempster - Mendel90
mine is similar, but not quite so noticeable, for some things i use the choose start point closest to point... as this allows aligning them to an edge, mostly i just stick to print what is fastestby alkempster - Mendel90
i am, great results so far. Just need to remember what all the options do nowby alkempster - Mendel90
the filament i buy has a tolerance of +- 0.03mm, most are +-0.05mm toleranceby alkempster - Plastic Extruder Working Group
i don't think nopheads version of marlin supports displays out of the box, t3p3 version has support, as does the one here:by alkempster - Mendel90
or you can just about squeeze it in with the fan clip mounted upside downby alkempster - Mendel90
what you want is a puller, you measure the diameter as it comes out, then stretch it to make the filament thinner. The construction manual for the lyman extruder may give some good ideas:by alkempster - Plastic Extruder Working Group
it would be great to see photos as you goby alkempster - Mendel90
the mounting is strong enough, remember that the ribbon cable feeds through strain relief, no risk of it working loose you probably could go 6x2 but 5x2 gave me 10A of connectivity, plenty with a bit of fudge factor . One consideration is the connector you use on the other side, because the plastic shroud of the connetor is large compared to the pad separation there isn't much clearance, mine haby alkempster - Mendel90
Bear in mind, i havn't really looked at the 3-mount variant because the kit was set up for four pin. The aluminium beds are 3mm thick, quite a bit of mass there, however, there would be nothing stopping you from throwing additional heating elements on to it such as a silicone heater pad, wire wound resistors etc to speed up heat up time. You would, however, also have to beef up the cabling goingby alkempster - Mendel90
i am using a four point mount, as per the original nophead design. The four point mount is, however, more bothersome to setup compared to the three point. The aluminium takes longer to heat because it has a bigger thermal load (i.e. there is more of it which has to heat up) this means it will require more power, and because this can't be applied straight away, takes more time to reach the sameby alkempster - Mendel90
i went for the aluminium heated bed, takes longer to warm up but i found it much easier to keep level as it doesn't flex so much. i still use a sheet of glass on top, mostly so i can change out different prepared beds for various types of filament. my heated bed takes around 16 minutes to heat up to 90C compared to around 6-7 minutes with the one i got from nophead. I will add that they are a paiby alkempster - Mendel90
the bend radius is entirely dependant on the filament used, but is tighter. i would think carefully about using clones, they have benefits granted, but if nobody buys the originals it slows development. In terms of enclosing the mendel90, building to spec would make it more difficult as it wasn't designed to be enclosed. You should consider how you would enclose it if you built to spec or whatby alkempster - Mendel90
i went for the 1.75mm E3d for mine because: - i wanted to print exotic materials - 1.75mm filament has a smaller bend radius so suited my plans for enclosing the printer slightly better i was able to use the 1.75mm filament with the original extruder, but one printed for 1.75 did improve print quality for meby alkempster - Mendel90
as far as i am aware e3d-v6 only has a blue fan duct, i have never seen one with a red duct.by alkempster - Mendel90
i brought a fully working mendel90 all setup and ready to go (which means i have no idea how to fix it ) - manual: i have kinda got it screwed in with the 3 washers at a 45 degree angle (I'm hoping this will do till i can print out another with more depth to the hole it sits in or print a bowden is it indirect extruder) - mine sits flush without the screws at an angle, i had to use a ball headby alkempster - Mendel90
No problem, you may want to start looking at an alternative version of marlin such as T3P3's version: which has LCD support or this one here: i personally use the former but would probably move over to the later. I believe both of these have LCD support. I have a panelolu 2 on my mendel90 with T3P3's version, however, there was still some tweaking involved to get it to workl! I would suggestby alkempster - Mendel90
Couple of questions: 1. which version of marlin are you using? 2. how is it not working? (i.e. what step have you managed to get to?)by alkempster - Mendel90
@JamesK Still have not got around to printing a new fan mount, but Srek seems to have the answer!by alkempster - Printing