@QuackingPlumbs OK, I got enough time to take a stab at beginning to understand G-Code. I don't have a Panelolu2 so stripped out bits that I think would not apply to me. Will the code below blow up the machine or does it do as you intended? Do I just put this in Slic3r start code? Thanks! ; ***** Ooze-free start with wipe ***** ; ***** Original author QuackingPlumbs ***** ; ***** Mangled by Garby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I am sorry. I had tried to make it private so only the people with the link could see it. I should have made it 'unlisted' as I have done now. It should work now.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quotemuelli Even with oiling the rattling is getting louder and louder. Since today, when moving the Y bed by hand, I can feel slight resistance moving it along the axis. I think the bearings start to fail. I'm just wondering how the bearings are doing? Did you replace them? Mine are noisy too and the Y bearings started to drag heavily till I oiled the rods. They are OK now but noisy. I'd like tby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I recorded the sound when the X carriage is lowering. YouTube of Lowering SequenceThe threaded and smooth rods are well oiled with motor oil but the whining sounds can hurt the ears when lowering and while I can live with it (because it's my machine), I cringe when it happens because I hate bugging the rest of my family. If someone does play the video please turn up your speakers and you should gby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you very much Neil. I will try to implement these and find the sections which control or affect Z heights. Any hints which section to look in to? This might take me a while to get to since I'm trying to learn much in a semi-sequential order and document and categorize the info as I progress. RepRap is great but there's a lot to it! I will make sure I understand how to preserve my existingby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteneildarlowI am using White PLA from reprapsource.com. It has a matte finish compared to the satin finish of the Faberdashery product. I believe this has something to do with its adhesion. Nice. It says "4043D". I ordered some 4043D in a few colors from Ultimachine in the U.S. I would consider those quality filament. So far the two I have used (aside from the Faberdashery that came with theby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you Chris. We did already move the pulley forward till it is flush with the end of the motor shaft. So that means we need to follow your advice to adjust the motor. (The bar clamps are tight.) But given Kenzu's comment that the prints are acceptable quality I will worry less about this . Best regards, Garryby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you Jesper. I am encouraged to hear the prints are acceptable. I tried to have the pictures taken to show the objects in their worst light and indeed the flaws were captured at their worst. Looked at from 18" they are very nice and straight and smooth. It's just I am very fussy and tend to look for flaws rather than being satisfied. I might benefit from some therapy ... I'm not sure how tby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
That is great adhesion Neil. May I ask is that PLA, and if so which brand? I have found of the brands I have tried so far that the Faberdashery supplied with the kit has the very best adhesion to glass. It starts cracking and popping loose from the glass at the lowest temperatures (others start cracking and popping at 45C-ish - the Faberdashery at 33C-ish). I take this to be superior in favor ofby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I am learning the M90 slowly and prints are getting better but there is room for improvement. At least I hope to get better prints since I am unsatisfied with the status quo. Please see pictures of two angle pieces at end of post. My problem is (I think) I am having layer misalignment. The layers are not stacking perfectly. Faces show irregularity and so do corners and edges. It's an X/Y issue Iby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Hi Neil, yes please I would like to know how you set up the slicers. I have worked a bit to understand this and I think the Bottom setting in Skeinforge is the key. It raises the nozzle from the glass equal to the layer height. Slic3r doesn't have that setting: I wish it did. I changed the Z offset in Slic3r by my chosen layer height and the print started at a very nice height. But this workarouby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I tried and really like the white vinegar (a kitchen paper towel). Easy to make the glass squeak. Left the glass wet with the vinegar. It dried and little crusts formed where some trace elements were left behind after the majority of acetic acid/water evaporated. PLA adhered well. I'm thinking to try misting the glass with the vinegar and let it evaporate to form those crusts. No wiping unless itby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
If I have my Z height set in firmware so that objects sliced with Skeinforge have the perfect "squish" on the first layer (and the walls go up exactly straight right from layer one) the first layer of objects sliced with Slic3r will be too "squished" and the walls will go up unevenly with the base being wider than the middle and top of the print. Is there a way to fix this other than changing Zby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteRalph HiltonGarry - the site has a button near the top to get it in English. It does look similar, yes. Thanks Ralph, that worked better than trying To use Google Translate! We made the cardboard insulator yesterday and it seems to work very well and it's so light. Among others it sure does slow down the cooling of the bed when the print is done. I can really see the benefit of the coolingby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I posted before seeing yours Chris. Yes, loose bits made airborne by a shaking bed would not be cool. Edit: Perhaps enclosing it in Kapton might work to prevent material from becoming airborne? But maybe that could compress it if not done carefully. Maybe the Kapton would negate effects of the matte? But I suspect it could be done. It might just be too much work for too little gain but that I caby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteRalph Hilton Perhaps ? Yes, this would likely be it. Thank you. Google Translate doesn't seem to like operating on this website so I can't gain a lot using it but I wonder if this is a ceramic matte along the lines of this? Fireproof Ceramic Thermal Insulation Blanket . Or this: Superwool® Fibre blankets. If I can find this type of material easily at - maybe a pottery shop - I might try iby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you Chris. Again you provide exactly the type of information we need to make decisions. I will likely leave this alone and just keep the machine in one spot (anyway no need to move it really except for cleaning the office etc.).by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I would like to add a base under my M90 to increase it's already very rigid and stable design and to add some more weight to anchor the machine (I can't say more weight would help but it don't think it would hurt). I think I read somewhere that Z never needs to be adjusted unless the machine is moved from one surface to another. I assume some rigid material bolted to the machine base would elimby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Funny we have it in Home Depot here but they don't carry it there. I like it mainly because it is an excellent thinner for Plastidip.by Garry Bartsch - General
Thank you, that helps. I thought I should not lower Fan Full Speed because max speed might be needed for bridging so I didn't touch. But I will play with the Skeinforge fan settings soon. Slic3r's fan settings are so easy.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
@QuackingPlums Thank you! Cardboard it is. I'm not going to mess with things I don't fully understand. And thank you for sharing that code. I am going to work through it to understand it and might be back with questions. Best regards, Garryby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I have a PLA that seems to warp when the fan blows hard on the part (and then the part gets knocked off). I'd like to slow the fan down but can't see how. I've played with 'Cool > Maximum Cool' but nothing changed. I wasn't able to learn how to slow down the fan from reading the help page. Is this possible or is it 'ON' or 'OFF' only? Thanks in advance. Garryby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteYvanLOL! The fun never stops up here, have you ever tried to patch an old Hypalon inflatable? Don't look for tuolene... Being an inventor in Canada is about as much fun as a sharp stick in the eye sometime ... LOL. But HomeDepot Canada has Toluene in case anyone is needing it: Tolueneby Garry Bartsch - General
QuoteBrianC I use a 1/2" sheet of foam insulation board under the heated bed. I think another benefit of insulating is increased efficiency, because you lose less heat from the underside of the bed. Is this the type of stuff you mean? Insulated Board Or something without fiberglass? There are some insulating materials with two sides of foil but the inside is plastic-like bubble wrap but that wby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
QuoteQuackingPlumsI have my bed preheat and ooze-free gcode incorporated into my slicer's start code and I usually have plenty of time between the bed reaching temperature and the nozzle coming down to meet the bed to remove my cardboard blanket. I have been wanting to try doing the ooze-free start for Slic3r but have not felt comfortable enough yet to try. Would you mind sharing this code?by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thanks guys. Actually I was looking for material that I thought someone used in place of the cardboard but maybe I WAS dreaming ... LOL. Anyway I am learning something because I thought the insulation was to protect the carriage etc. when in fact it is to help the glass heat quicker. Now not sure if I will use card board or something else but I definitely will try a blanket of some type on top ofby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
So far I've just been printing with PLA but soon I want to try ABS. Before I do I need to make the insulation barrier under the heated bed. I seem to remember someone posting that they used a fiber sheet/board of some type for this but now cannot find the post. It's driving me nuts that I can't find it. Am I remembering something I didn't read? I hope I'm not making it up. I thought too it was aby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Quotemuelli as long as the teeth look greasy, it should be ok. print some spare gears to be safe :-) Thanks - they do look greasy. I can see the grease on the teeth surface. Yes, that is on my list of first important things to go. I have questions: 1) Must the gears be ABS or could they be PLA? 2) To make them dimensionally accurate must I use Skeinforge? (Despite my initially feeling of despaiby Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
Thank you, I understand what you mean about too much. I put a bit too much on the first time and some squeezed out onto the sides also. The manual said they will wear out quickly without lubrication and that's something I want to avoid.by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90
I'm just wondering how often to grease the extruder gears? Obviously we don't want them to run dry but I don't want to add grease when not needed. If we can see traces of grease on the teeth surfaces is it still OK?by Garry Bartsch - Mendel90