Well, when I load up an stl file to make sure the other items I am designing in C4D are proper sized do I do as the picture shows?by Dark Alchemist - General
So, the magic number when loading/importing the stl is 25.4 inches?by Dark Alchemist - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I thought they were discussing the horizontal > ribs, as those are a function of the printer > rather than the model. I agree of that was what they were talking about but I guess the prints had two distinct issues and knowing the horizontal issues was a printer issue that can easily be fixed I latched on to thby Dark Alchemist - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Dark Alchemist Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I was not talking about the horizontal ridges > as > > those can be removed by <2mm I was talking > about > > the vertical ridges of the original file that > > makes the final print look likeby Dark Alchemist - General
NewPerfection Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Dark Alchemist Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > That last one took a helluva lot work I must > say > > but I only bring this up because I prefer a > pure > > object at the software level than trying to get > my > > electronics and machineby Dark Alchemist - General
Yes, I did and it wasn't for me.by Dark Alchemist - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Dark Alchemist Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > That made sense. > > > > So, if I want exact dimensions I have to use a > CAD > > program and every last one I used just sucked > in > > comparison to a polygon type 3d program. Most > hadby Dark Alchemist - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Dark Alchemist Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > So, what I am gathering is that the .stl file > has > > no info in it as to dimensions. Fair enough > but > > how do you print it with the exact dimensions > > then? I see lots of parts being made aby Dark Alchemist - General
So, what I am gathering is that the .stl file has no info in it as to dimensions. Fair enough but how do you print it with the exact dimensions then? I see lots of parts being made and people using slic3r, or w/e, but nothing in the .stl file is telling it any dimensions. I'm lost.by Dark Alchemist - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I think everyone is talking about different > things. The short answer is NO. > > No programs allow you to change dimensions of part > of an STL unless you manipulate the actual mesh. > An stl only contains information about the faces > that make up the outside of the object. They do > not contain anby Dark Alchemist - General
Well, I dislike all of the cad programs I have tried so I am comfortable with Cinema4D and wish to use it to make my models/object but I want to get exact measurements on them for the final printing. So, I am not opposed to bringing them in to a cad program that can give the real dimensions of various spots. I know when I was playing around in the cad programs I not only had X/Y/Z of the objectby Dark Alchemist - General
Idolcrasher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IMHO The RepRap Wiki and RepRapsite are in need of > some pretty serious modernization. The strength > of the community depends on how well we can > communicate here. Not sure how to make that > happen; but I could envision something like a > kickstarter raising funds to hire/contract that > effortby Dark Alchemist - General
I upsampled something on Thingverse which was no easy task I must tell you but when you upsample those ribs go bye-bye. Here is a link to the main ribbed object: Here is a link to a derivative of it that was upsampled: That last one took a helluva lot work I must say but I only bring this up because I prefer a pure object at the software level than trying to get my electronics and machine tby Dark Alchemist - General
So, let me understand, please. What you are saying is that if the object is done in a 3d application I can export it as .stl and import that stl into Netfab and in that program I may give it the exact dimensions of the 3 axises?by Dark Alchemist - General
Wow, that sounds painful and if your object is not a rudimentary shape I don't see how it could be done.by Dark Alchemist - General
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The RepRap wiki is useless, I've seen people > complaining about it for years but the advice is > to always fix it yourself, which is obviously no > small task! > > Writing in the wiki is as simple as posting here. > You have to find a better excuse > > Regarding the i3, I fear it has the sameby Dark Alchemist - General
Is there any way I can load in a 3d model and give it precise dimensions? Which program can import a polygonal model and allow me to give it precise dimensions? If there is such a thing are those precise measurements lost in the STL file format? I think they are preserved but I am unsure.by Dark Alchemist - General
See, this is where the rub is because if I have a model I have done in Rhino (forgot to mention that one) or Cinema4D or w/e how do I get it to be a parametric object? I tried AutoCAD and absolutely hated it as well as Solidworks.by Dark Alchemist - General
akhlut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My guess would be yes as it has the most contact > between the infilled layers. > > Personally I don't infill much any more. Getting > stronger/more efficient parts with more perimeters > and solid layers and less infill. Also honeycomb > infill takes appreciably longer that rectilinear > infill addby Dark Alchemist - General
Perfect, and I had a suspicion this was done via the slicer program as nothing I have worked with in 3d had this capability though I would kill to have. Now, a side question is for infill is a honeycomb pattern still the strongest requiring the least amount of material? I ask because I see a lot of different patterns on that page. Thank you.by Dark Alchemist - General
I just got involved with Thingiverse with two 3d models and something I have always wondered is how do you make a solid core model? I use Cinema4D for my 3d work but this seems to be the same across all 3d programs I have ever tried (XSI, 3dsmax, Maya, Modo, Lightwave, Blender) on a very basic level. So, my question is how do you guys print with a solid body if the 3d model is hollow and no wayby Dark Alchemist - General
You are probably right. I have some of that litium grease (small tube) I purchased from Radio Shack back in the 1980's and it still flows but the newer stuff is like you said. It smells and/or turns to looking like a drier version of Silly Putty and can't be used.by Dark Alchemist - General
Then we agree to disagree.by Dark Alchemist - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Exactly. Designs should not be so marginal that it > makes a difference. Otherwise they are not > suitable to be replicated all over the world by > amateur hobbyists. I find that laughable that a hobbyist wouldn't understand about heatsink compound in this day and age of computers everywhere and if they don't theby Dark Alchemist - General
I know the better stuff has a shelf life of about 2 to a maximum (for the really pricey stuff) of 5 years after that you should buy more. I have a tube of that expensive stuff (Artic Silver) from a decade ago and it looks fine but I can tell you I do feel a difference when I applied it last so I know it is breaking down. I went and purchased something else that is even better but cost less. Thby Dark Alchemist - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I still use a big syringe of it that I bought in > the 1970s! It works fine for my needs. I am very > much a don't fix what ain't broke sort of person. That stuff breaks down with age but each to their own.by Dark Alchemist - General
@Sanjay ahhh, good. @nophead The thing is that I am a perfectionist and a tweaker (I thought we all were around here) so even 1c less heat tickles me and allows me to go 1c higher on the head. Remember I am looking at all sorts of materials that need some serious hefty temps to melt them so anything to transfer more heat. Now, do not get me wrong I am not saying run out and buy a 25 dollar .5ozby Dark Alchemist - General
Research this because I know for a fact screws are not enough for the best heat transfer. There are microscopic pits (no matter how much you think you made it flush or how much you lap either surface) and it has been proven beyond a shadow of a doubt that you lose a tremendous amount of heat transferring ability without heatsink compound. Tell you one thing after all of my reading on this subjeby Dark Alchemist - General
I hope everyone is using heatsink compound (not that crappy white grease kind of stuff but the nicer ones for computer CPU) between the surfaces else you lose a drastic amount of cooling capacity.by Dark Alchemist - General
How are you going to control the on/off of the fan and the RPM?by Dark Alchemist - General