As Ian above said, a cable tie is a solution to your issue. See this thread - hopefully will make it clearer. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
There's a video on Youtube printing the infill at 200mm/s - see here I don't think I'd subject my Ormerod to something like that - can't see it lasting more than an hour There must be a 'sweet spot' for speed vs quality vs machine reliability. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
John, Ian confirmed above that the g-code files were outputted for the Mendel and not for the Ormerod. As David said above, use Slic3r to output your own g-code from a STL file. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
Henrik, Try adding a piece of white tape (or white paint) on the x-axis stop. Like this: HTH, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
Shame about your z sensor You could try the other mount I posted - the previous one with the standard head height - that will help. RE x-carriage bearing - have you tried using a M3 x 16mm screw with 5 washers under the bearing. Worked for me. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
In this thread earlier today Paul and others mentioned that the z-axis lead screw should be covered at the top. I've made a very simple part that screws on the top and also has an index mark. Align the index mark to point forwards when Z=0mm, and then see how accurate the Ormerod z-axis is - it's spot on !!! STL file attached. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
John, This is caused by either a blocked feed or the nozzle is touching the bed. If the nozzle is touching the bed raise it 0.2mm in your G31 command line. The blocked feed could be some debris blocking the nozzle, or it might be caused by the PLA getting too hot higher up than the nozzle in the PTFE tube. Raise your Y axis to 100mm, set the extruder temp to 200ºC and feed the extruder in 1mm sby Number 192 - Ormerod
Looks very snazzy in that colour combo Glad the part helped. Did the additional 0.8mm improve your sensor reading? Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
Greg, It looks like your Y axis belt is slipping. Try putting a cable tie around the loose ends. Ensure you have a good tension on the belt as well. Also, check your Y axis grub screw on the pulley. Keep going - you're nearly there! Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
QuoteJon Steward Hi Ian Would it be OK to alter the code in Windows Notepad then copy to SD and reload then print? Thanks Jon Yes, as long as you are happy with the other relevant print settings - such as layer height, infill ratio etc... Simon EDIT: Jon characters after a semi-colon are ignored so you can add any comment you wish there, so yes you can add 'relative' if you wish.by Number 192 - Ormerod
I was referring to the g-codes in the Ormerod Master file - they all contain the M82 command: If they don't now then they've been changed recently. I suspect people have tried to print some of these g-code files, just like they've printed the snowman and coathook files, but the other files contain M82. I believe that's where the extrusion problem lies. Also, when I installed the Ormerod Sli3by Number 192 - Ormerod
Try this solution - it worked for me. • Remove the x-carriage M3 screw, 9.0mm bearing and washer. • Check the x-carriage slot is clear and allows the M3 screw to slide freely. If not clean out with a 3.0mm drill bit. • Replace the M3 x 12mm screw with a M3 x 16mm screw - this is important. • Re-install the 9mm bearing with 5 washers under the bearing. • As you tighten up the screw pinch theby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi, I've found a hot end kit on eBay - might be of interest if someone's wanting to make some offspring! HTH Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
I've just looked at the Ormerod page on the RS website and noticed they've added this: Didn't see this when I ordered mine - anyway I'd have still bought it. Maybe the warning could be a bit more informative. Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi, 22A is the code for a 165 ohm SM resistor. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi, I'm fairly certain that your problem is with the G32 command for auto bed compensation. I had similar issues with using G32 - I think it's buggy send my hot end crashing into the bed !!! Remove G32 from you setbed.g file and add G30 manual settings. Example from RepRapPro: G30 P0 X60 Y20 Z0.0 G30 P1 X60 Y180 Z-0.3 G30 P2 X180 Y180 Z0.2 G30 P3 X180 Y20 Z-0.5 S Insert your own Z readingsby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi Eric, I'm 50/50 on this one. It might sound strange, but I suppose it depends what type of person you are. IMO you need to have experience in engineering, electronics, assembly work, fairly decent PC skills, a clear workspace and the right tools. Add to that a few days put aside for assembly, commissioning and fine tuning. That's if you don't run into problems. If you're not that type of persby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi, I've made some clips for holding down the glass. I know there's the photo frame mod, but in the spirit of RepRap I wondered if I could make something with the printer. They fit fine but I need to see how the PLA stands up to the heat of the bed. So far, after about an hour at 60ºC they seem to be keeping their grip. I'm going to see how thin I can make the top section - they're currently 2.0by Number 192 - Ormerod
Dave, The ormaxis g-code file prints OK but I've noticed that most of the g-code files in the Ormerod repository contain the code to set the extruder to absolute coordinates (M82) This means that the extruder will just keep moving back and forth trying to print from the first 5mm or so of filament. It's a silly oversight - someone has added the wrong setting in Slic3r, outputted the g codes andby Number 192 - Ormerod
The bed temperature is around 110º to 120ºC when printing with ABS, so a plastic bed would be a problem. The bed does need refining. Mine has already bowed, drooping at the corners - and there's approx. 1.5mm of wobble corner to corner. One of the problems is that the bearings are quite close to the middle of the bed - to maximise travel and keeping the overall dimensions compact. It's a compromiby Number 192 - Ormerod
David, I used Google SketchUp to draw the nozzle mounting. It's free for the basic version and there's a STL plug-in on Git-Hub, The software is simple to use - I drew the mounting in about half an hour from installing the software. There's loads of tutorials online to help get you started. Regards, Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
I made the mount with the extra 0.8mm - now works perfectly. With the nozzle being lower the sensor is now lifted from the bed to an ideal position. Here are my new G31 readings: 0.0 868 0.1 841 0.2 802 0.3 778 0.4 750 0.5 702 0.6 669 0.7 628 0.8 592 0.9 568 1.0 551 HTH Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Simon Part looks absolutely brilliant. May I make one further suggestion, if the protruding part was made 1 mm deeper at the bottom face it would enable the head to be a bit lower for the correct operation of the z sensor as per an earlier post. Rory Thanks Rory. I've changed the part so that the head is 0.8mm lower than the IR sensor. I think there should be enough thread left oby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi, I've made another mount - 0.5mm smaller than the previous mounting. Fits OK now. I've attached the STL file - see below. In Slic3r I outputted it with 4 top and bottom layers, 0.5 infill and 2 walls. The finished part weighs approx. double the original. Maybe that's why it was warping - it's printed with a low infill so it's fairly hollow. Also, you'll need to open up the screw holes with aby Number 192 - Ormerod
I agree with these comments - it would be much better to have an aluminium mounting for the extruder head. As a quick fix I've made a part as discussed earlier - came out OK. You can see from the photos that the fan assembly is still hanging down a bit, but it got really hot when the fan wasn't on New hot end mounting The perspective makes it look like the nozzle is higher than the fan shroby Number 192 - Ormerod
One other issue that I forgot to mention is that the problem is made worse by the Bowden tube. As the X carriage moves back and forth the tube tension pushes the print head down. I've just put an elastic band around the Bowden tube which seems to help. I tried cable ties at first but they caused the tube to lift the head when the x-carriage was at both ends of travel. Hope this helps. Simonby Number 192 - Ormerod
Hi, I've had the same sagging head problem. My fan seems to be slow and needs a nudge to get it spinning - a pain when I'm constantly resetting the board and turning off the ATX power - and then forget to set it spinning again. The other day I did just that and the head started to sag really bad. Whilst the nozzle mount was still soft I added a M3 washer under each head, see photo. However itby Number 192 - Ormerod