It is on eBay Germany right now...by djar - For Sale
RRP didn't answered upon my request and the next machine will be an Ultimaker 2.by djar - Ormerod
I want to sell my ORMEROD v1. I liked it very much and it was a good entry level machine with all the "pro" settings available. I learnt a lot using it, but as the duet broke, it is time to move on. Features: -Fully built Ormerod v1 -Wodden stable base with fixed printer (no movement possible) -included modular Enermax PSU -Stainless steel laser cutted bed support (worth alone 40€) -belt tensioby djar - For Sale
I had this breaking issue as well - but only with a transparent PLA Filament. I figured out it is because of the bending angle. I did some tests with it on the table and figured out, that it happens because the bending angle of my feeding was too high for that filament. Never happend with others.by djar - Ormerod
Over a year old - don't know if they give waranty then - but i'll try it...by djar - Ormerod
Hello Folks, my Duet stopped to work suddenly today. Just a red LED on the Board, no RJ45, no USB. Do you guys know, if there is any cheap replacement for it at the moment? The 70 pounds + shipping is too much for me to still invest it in the Ormerod, as the design has some flaws, which can't be compensated. If there is no cheap board or something, i rather buy a CTC (450€, dual extruder) or dby djar - Ormerod
Thanks so much, that was the hint I needed - I exchanged the thermistor - one of the legs was nearly loose. So I think it lost contact while moving - at least thats the only thing I could think of... New thermistor and a straight temp line - everything like it was and should be! Thanks again for your help and work on the firmware.by djar - Ormerod
Hey, thanks for your tips - it kinda worked, but the line of the heater doesn't look really good to me...but see yourself. I already increased W by 20 - should i still rise the value? (Not really sure what it does?)by djar - Ormerod
Thanks, thats the solution! But still the heater only reaches 238° with setting of 240° (there should be a sloght overshoot during heating up?) - as i understood you can regulate the Voltage for the heater with the M301 command via S? So S1.1 or 1.2 would help? I have an Enermax PSU with nearly 11.8V - 12.0V under load. Not enough?by djar - Ormerod
My config: QuoteM111 S0 ; Debug off M550 PMy RepRapPro Ormerod ; Machine name (can be anything you like) M551 Preprap ; Machine password (currently not used) M540 P0xBE:0xEF:0xDE:0xAD:0xFE:0xED ; MAC Address M552 P192.168.5.33 ; IP address M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask M554 P192.168.5.1by djar - Ormerod
Still have problems with that - even if i put it in the gcode, the nozzle heats up, but before it reaches the print temp, it starts to cool down... Even if i manually heat to 240, it reaches it and cools it down after i started the print... With less tempreture it works - eg 200° - but thats not enough for me :/ Thats in the gcode: M190 S80 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 S230 ;by djar - Ormerod
Ahh ok, thanks, i'll try that!by djar - Ormerod
Quotedc42 1. Are there any T commands in your print file? No, as i only have one nozzle and that is defined in the config. Isn't that enough? Quotedc42 2. When you start the next print and the temperature drops, which nozzle (if any) does the web interface show is the active one? The Head1 is grey in the background, so active? Quotedc42 You may find it helpful to use web interface version 1.0by djar - Ormerod
Found a unwanted behavior: First print works fine. When you then set a manual tempreature it works fine aswell. But as soon as you start the next print the tempreture of the nozzle drops. Any idea on that? BTW: I dont have any temp commands in my gcodes, as i set the temp always manually. (Makes it easier to print different materials from same file)by djar - Ormerod
Thanks for all your helpful answers. I will upgrade to the spring loaded extruder very soon! I think i have a project for the eveningby djar - Ormerod
Hey folks, since a short time i have an annoying problem - the filament gets stuck and the extruder doesn't move it forward and just rotates "empty". After i pushed the filament a little, it works again. It does not occur during retractions, but during straight prints - mostly during filling. Different filament rolls - same result. Any idea what could cause that or how to fix it?by djar - Ormerod
Could you share your fan duct design? It looks pretty good on the pictures...by djar - Ormerod
Hello everyone, this looks like a new fan duct design? Anybody knows where i can find the stl for that? Best regards, Andreasby djar - Ormerod
Edit: Got it...by djar - Ormerod
I would try a new bed construction aswell. Therefor I'm looking for the files of the original lasercut parts. Any idea where they hide? There is the y-rib and the y-cross-rib - but the top? I'm sure just blind?!by djar - Ormerod
Thanks for your suggestions. After playing around a while, trying the stepper on other connectors, then powering off the board, let it be for a while and trying it again, it works again. How can that be? Overheating in the stepper driver?by djar - Ormerod
Hey Folks, tonight a strange problem occured. The reading of the noozle went over 300° while i was away. So the electronics stopped heating, but the reading sticked at over 300 degree. The noozle totally cooled down, but the print went on. So the stepper tried to extrude the filament through the cold noozle, which was obvioulsy not possible. When i came to the print in the morning, it was printby djar - Ormerod