I purchased some off ebay, big supplier, winbocn was the seller. Very happy, got both abs and pla. Now i noticed the PLA was vac sealed and had a moisture thingy inside while the ABS was just packaged normally. So I guess while not in use, leave the PLA sealed. How do I store it while not using it once open? Dieter Ormerod #257by dieterzar - Ormerod
Traceyb, I think we only have Zilles here in Cape Town! Hopefully no E-Tolls soon either! Not sure where you are in Cape Town but you should get a thermistor replacement quick and cheap from Communica in Woodstock. Got mine there and my be worth a try if you keep having issues. Dieter Ormerod #257by dieterzar - Ormerod
Victors, Nice! The main reason I purchased the 3d printer was to build other machines and hard to get parts and custom parts. Not really as a toy or nice to have at all... Ok, so the psu is crap. I figured there must be some voltage sag with the bed current and the band cable, seems a bad idea for that kind of current to the bed. So note, new psu will solve a lot of issues. The heater is ratedby dieterzar - Ormerod
Hi Rosario It is a 100K thermistor, NTC type with a beta of 3950 +/- should work fine. It looks like a little glass diode, very cheap. Dieter Ormerod #257by dieterzar - Ormerod
Looked at the thread about freezing and the non- scientific test, I suspect poor earth or none at all but who knows without testing it. Dieter Ormerod #257by dieterzar - Ormerod
Ah, thanks, difficult to see it on the photo of the board I have, strange how they only covered part of the board but looks on the topside the lm1117 is covered? That leaves one stupid but important question, how well earthed is the GND line? It should be earthed via the PSU pcb but you never know with chinese made psu. Somtimes they don't do it via pcb in the PSU but in the PC it gets earthed vby dieterzar - Ormerod
Ew, Lol, rf stuff at 2.4ghz board design has crazy ground and lead length requirements. Played around with it in the past, everything acts like a small pf capacitor! Duet board should never crash as a result of a cell packet data spewing over everything. Sounds like bad board design, have not looked at my duet board in detail but there should be a good ground plane under it with through holes andby dieterzar - Ormerod
Victors, just glue the one side down of the belt with some super glue where it starts against the vertical piece of wood before the belt exits to the stepper side as the wood locking first part in my opinion is a total failure. Then you can pull it very tight. It should cross lock nice and tight belt on belt. Test it by doing a manual slide by hand a few times with stepper wires unplugged. The plby dieterzar - Ormerod
Done with PICs, I will use TI MSP chips any day before PIC16 or the likes for small things. My latest love affair has been the STM32's ARM Cortex M3 and so cheap to get various setups via ebay. When my machine works properly, I am thinking of building another 3D printer, own design or some variation of many existing ones and then I will throw a STM32 at it. At least I should be able to print tby dieterzar - Ormerod
Stay away from the Ormerod, I just purchased that via RS and it has a lot of issues. Dieter, Cape Town Ormerod #257by dieterzar - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
This is interesting, I puchased some thermistors for my home built head while waiting for the missing parts. They were 100K NTC with a beta of 3950 and give a similar reading to the bed before heating, so I know they are fine and they look like caps and not in the diode type package. I must have damaged the first one or it failed because after some testing it also read -9'C cold while the bed wasby dieterzar - Ormerod
I will mill it on my lathe using some tricks and it should look perfect. I think you should manage if you have a bench vice, hacksaw and drill bits / drill press and some time on your hands and work slowly and accurately. It may not look pretty but will do the job. Dieter Ormerod #257by dieterzar - Ormerod
I have just purchased solid 20mm PTFE round bar for amongst other things for making a new mount from Maizy Plastics South Africa. PTFE is amazing stuff but pricey. Some machining work and it should be sorted. I notice most of the print heads out there make extensive use of PTFE to prevent heat transfer. I am sure this will solve the problem period. I think PTFE should also make good slider bearinby dieterzar - Ormerod
At this stage of the game, I agree more than 100% with HarveyC! Had I known what I know now, I would never have touched this thing. The Mendel Mono looks like a proven machine. Dieter Ormerod #257by dieterzar - Ormerod
I have seen it used on cars where high heat is present but then a special high temp epoxy was used to laminate it.by dieterzar - Ormerod
@ dc42 not a great idea, biggest problem is not the carbon but the epoxy used or glass resin used. Epoxy goes a horrible yellow with time and 110'C does that quickly let alone the resins ability to handle heat. Use it a lot for model aircraft and other things molded.by dieterzar - Ormerod
Just under the stepper, I don't have this, anyone?by dieterzar - Ormerod
I think on the green machines they have switched to micro switch system, I noticed this on the wiki. I need to go find the picture.by dieterzar - Ormerod
You will need to keep the fan running after switching off the hot end, I am still waiting for my hot end parts bag to arrive but I made a hot end on the lathe and been testing it out of the machine. I want to get printing! So naturally I looked at the design and the first problem is heat rises. The heatsink should get rid of that with the fan running if the fan is blowing hard enough. While testiby dieterzar - Ormerod
My SD card just did not work on the machine even though I had no problems with it on the PC, so that was the first thing I tossed out and replaced with a old Kingston 2GB card lying around. Not a moments problems from that point on.by dieterzar - Ormerod
Oh yes, I have not used the Arduino IDE. Only Chrome and IP address and then also used Pronterface to communicate with it. Hitting M503 in Pronterface should give you all the connection details.by dieterzar - Ormerod
I have read quite a bit about IR sensor issues here on the forum but don't seem to have any of these. My operating room is lit by natural day light during the day, not sun shining on the machine and all works fine. At night it is lit by LED down lights. All works fine. I even get similar voltage ranges as on the wiki. I have not made any changes to software or hardware. Those that are having issby dieterzar - Ormerod
DC42, all still standard... at least for now. Dieterby dieterzar - Ormerod
On my one it only worked once reset with the network cable plugged into it, if I plug it in after a reset, no go... It otherwise logs in fine and does everything fine via LAN. No issues. If you are working under windows 7, just watch the firewall settings. Had to fiddle with these first. Don't have a cross over cable so I used a spare 8 port switch lying around, PC -> 8 PORT SWITCH -> PRINTby dieterzar - Ormerod
Really nice! Well another working machine! Ormerod No? Dieterby dieterzar - Ormerod
Hi Victors I got my no 257 from RS South Africa and based in Cape Town, yes it was expensive and is buggy. I have had quite a few issues with mine, one the belt not staying in place and so on. Mine is missing the hot end but this is being resolved by Ian but otherwise all works ok and smooth after a lot of fiddling (a lot!). I think the bed heater story and power supply is an issue but I will seby dieterzar - Ormerod
Hmmm... it doesn't appear to be doing its job though... I am going to have a good look at it when I get home tonight. I am still waiting for my replacement head which was never packed in to the box but it is built and working from every other point of view, so I can spend some time testing this and trying a few things. I was thinking the use of the other rails from the psu for 5v and 3v3 may worby dieterzar - Ormerod
I see a diode was mentioned earlier in a post as a solution, was it given a go? Dieterby dieterzar - Ormerod
I think that short sharp spike you see is back emf from the heater board, it must be acting like a coil as what you describe is typical of coil back emf. A diode across the heater board should solve this, flyback diode, use a common 1N4007. This is a common issue switching relays. Brushless motors do the same. Over time you will possibly destroy the fet. I will have a go on mine and see what itby dieterzar - Ormerod
Good news is that it is not dead, bad news is you have a short some place. Best place to start is unplug everything, I mean everything, steppers, bed and all. Start with the supply board, switch on. If all is good, plug in the Duet board, if all is good, plug in the steppers and so on until you find the issue. Dieteeby dieterzar - Ormerod