By the yellow part, I meant the middle (brass?), see the photo (the first attachment). I put the shaft next to the aluminum profile and made 2 revolutions. I estimate the distance between the shaft (rod) and the profile to be about 0.3mm. It doesn't look like the rod is too crooked, see the video (the second attachment).by printman - CoreXY Machines
The vase is incredible btw. Very nice.by printman - CoreXY Machines
I wanted to mount a rhino worm gear to a 20x20 profile and found that the shaft was a bit crooked. It is not parallel to the profile. See the picture, the shaft is off more than 1mm on one side. The Rhino box should have all sides perpendicular and the shaft does not throw at all when turning, there is no play. It seems the shaft mount (yellow wheel) may be bent slightly. Is this ever possible oby printman - CoreXY Machines
Thank you very much digital dentist. 1a) so the z axis belt is used because it's cheap especially for longer z axis? I thought the decision for the belts was to avoid the repetitive errors (wobble) that the screws create. Is it then ok to use the screws if you focus on quality prints and not so much on money? I mean if I buy a standard ball screw, will it be better than the belt with Chinese pulby printman - CoreXY Machines
Hi! I've seen a couple of corexy 3d printers and was wondering what the best design of axes is in terms of the resulting print quality. 1. Z axis design - are the belts used on UMMD better than ball screws? I can see the advantage of the Z axis design with 3 ball screws, because the bed can be auto-leveled, but aren't the belts betters in the resulting print quality? Can ball screws be the sameby printman - CoreXY Machines
@digital_dentist I looked at Rino block and not sure how you mounted the shaft to that. Rino has 8mm hole diameter with a little groove on it. Did you cut a groove to the shaft and put there a bar or something to connect the shaft with the Rino block?by printman - CoreXY Machines
Thanks. Good points. I've already decided to go for a box with moving table up and down but still struggling with the xy mechanism. I've narrowed down all the types to only two of them: 1. Carthesian 2S1M - one motor drives both Y axes, the another one drives X axis. See: 2. CoreXY (B ) - corexy over two levels without crossing See: The type 1 looks more rigid but slower, while the tby printman - CoreXY Machines
You are right. While I write precision I mean rather accuracy. I'm looking for an advice what is the best type of mechanism. I've read about the H-bot which appears to be worse than CoreXY because of a racking, or Markforged mechanism driving only one side. So there can be an answer or an ordering, CoreXY seems to be definitely better. I'm thinking of building a next version of my 3d printer. Iby printman - CoreXY Machines
There various XY designs nowadays. Which one is the best in terms of a precision, repeatability, rigidity and speed? 1. CoreXY with crossing - A 2. CoreXY no crossing - B 3. CoreXY - C, http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?397,706869 4. CoreXE 5. Ultimaker - carthesian, crossing axes 6. H-bot 7. Markforged - Markforged Mark design 8. Sli3DR - http://richrap.blogspot.com/search/label/Sli3DR 9. Dualwby printman - CoreXY Machines
0,20 kNm = 200 Nm = 200 Nm / 9,80665 ms^-2 = 20,39 kgm takze kdyz k vozicku prisroubujes metrovou tyc a povesis se na ni (urcite mas vice nez 20 kg), tak ho nejspis utrhnesby printman - Mechanika
Tried that without success :-( I saw test of slicers here: and Slic3r finished in last place. 1st - Simplify 3D 2nd - Craftware 3rd - Cura 4th - Slic3rby printman - Slic3r
I found out that this option causes it: Slic3r -> Layers and Perimeters -> detect thin walls If it is unchecked then the gcode is not generated at all for walls thick like extrusion width. So either crippled gcode or none. I looked at Slic3r web and there is no new version for almost one year :-(by printman - Slic3r
Good idea! ... G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance G1 X114.610 Y41.000 F7800.000 ; move to first perimeter point G1 E1.00000 F18000.00000 ; unretract G1 X104.610 Y41.000 E1.38006 F900.000 ; perimeter G1 E0.38006 F18000.00000 ; retract G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance G1 X104.610 Y41.250 F7800.000 ; move to first perimeter point G1 X104.110 Y41.250 F7800.000 ; move to first perimeter point G1 X10by printman - Slic3r
I'm printing walls with 1mm gap between them. Every wall is 10x10x0.5 mm. Extrusion width is set to 0.5 mm. Walls are in line on X axis. So It prints as it would draw dashed line. I can see some extra movement of Y axis when the retraction is done before a gap. Y axis shouldn't move at all I would say. Do you have the same experience? Is it a feature or a bug of Slic3r app. ... G92 E0 G1 X114.by printman - Slic3r
No one has experience with that? :-(by printman - Printing
Apparently not enough plastic going out of the nozzle. Calibrate your printer. Start with E-steps and infill. Slow down printing speed and check z-axis (move 100 mm and check that it was really 100 mm).by printman - Printing
Hi all! I'm playing with the settings of my printer (jerk and acceleration). This is my testing code: M201 X20000 # max acc M204 S6000 # acc M205 X0 # jerk M203 X100 # max feed rate G0 X100 G0 X-100 The program moves printing head from X = 0 to X = 100 mm in 1 second and goes back to X = 0 in the next second. I've measured total time to be 2 seconds, so it corresponds. The distance of onby printman - Printing
That makes sense. Thanks Wurstnase!by printman - Printing
here are the params: nozzle-size: 0.4 mm default extrusion width: 0.5 mmby printman - Printing
Hi! I've created a small rod with a hole in the one half of the rod and after its slicing I've find out that the half of the rod has smaller diameter than it should have! Look at the attachment please. I use Slic3r 1.1.7, 0.2 layer height. I think it's not correct output of the slicer, or? Model of the tube: $fn = 50; e = 0.1; h1 = 10; h1_full = 5; h2 = 6; h1_diameter_in = 3.4; h1_diameter_ouby printman - Printing
Thanks for the comment! I deal with the A. I've printed the tube shown in the picture. There are 2 parts (A) and (. (A) shows the tube printed with the Slic3r 'vase' settings. Something prevented the Slic3r to do a real spiral movement, so it still changes layers discontinuously (prints circle, goes up to the next layer, prints circle, goes up...etc). The position where it goes up to the next lby printman - Printing
Hi! I get the issues shown in the attached picture and I'd like to understand why they appears in my prints. A - when the hot end goes up to the next layer it prints thickier wall - it looks like it stops to rectrace and puts more filament there B - the corners doesn't have right angles and they are as though pulled out C - unfinished lines around the holes in the first layer - it happend to meby printman - Printing
Chipper: It is a challenge. Try to print your own. I'm bringing a new tree. It is slightly better. Slic3r 0.9.8 settings: Layer height: 0.2 Perimeters (minimum): 1 Solid Layers :Top 2, Bottom: 2 Fill density: 0.225 Temperature: 190°C Bed temperature: 60°C Speed: 30 mm/s Retraction: 1.6 mm/sby printman - Printing
@Cristofolini: My firmware is: Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL: PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Mendel EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 I've tested if I can use "Extra length on restart" for removing the blobs. - changing "extra length on restart" to negative values helped a little and had bad effect on the filament also. So I can say for now that only feed rate affects the blobs -by printman - Slic3r
@Cristofolini: I print with the retraction length 3mm by default. Another tests: 1. - retraction length 10 mm or 0 mm - the blobs are still there 2. - the blobs can be removed only by slowing down the speed I think that the blobs appear because z feed rate is not the same as xy feed rate and Slic3r doesn't compensate it.by printman - Slic3r
Mmm, my quick tests show that even temperature doesn't help here. You can see that the hollow box doesn't have blobs in the corners, only on the one side where the hot end stops its motion and goes up to the next layer.by printman - Slic3r
@crispy1: because you are slicing in GUI, not through the console.by printman - Slic3r
My e-steps are correctly calibrated. The nozzle is 0.35 mm. I made several tests. 1. First image "blobs2_slic3r0.9.8.jpg" shows that the blobs don't depend on E-steps. 2. Second image "blobs3_slic3r0.9.8.jpg" shows that the blobs depend on speed. The greater speed, the more visible the blobs are. The blobs here are created when the hot end stops its XY move and goes to Z move. My idea is to sloby printman - Slic3r
No, latest windows version doesn't work. There are the following files in my "D:\Slic3rCfgs" folder: D:\Slic3rCfgs\filament\filament.ini D:\Slic3rCfgs\print\print.ini D:\Slic3rCfgs\printer\printer.ini D:\Slic3rCfgs\slic3r.ini File "D:\Slic3rCfgs\slic3r.ini" contains: # generated by Slic3r 0.9.8 on Sat Jan 19 17:45:37 2013 filament = filament.ini print = print.ini printer = printer.ini coby printman - Slic3r
no bowden, PLA, bed temp 60°C, hot end temp 195°Cby printman - Slic3r