I have no real understanding of what is going on and absolutely no idea what effects it may have on the electronics, but I just wanted to say that is very interesting. I have used the stepper motors to play midi music based on varying federates and distances. However, I have never heard voices reproduced by stepper motors and think it would be cool to see.by kevinkline4124 - General
Thank you Pointedstick, that was exactly the type of stuff I was concerned about. We no longer think it is the friction in the lines causing the problems. Currently we have 4 printers running in a display case with fulfillment on spools right beside them. In order to keep everything neat there are plastic tubes (about 1 foot long) attached to the extruders to help guide the filament in. This worby kevinkline4124 - General
I have heard of people using a small amount of SAE-30 Motor oil on a sponge that PLA filament is run through before entering the extruder to both reduce dust and help reduce friction in the extruder. Has anyone tried this with ABS plastic? Is there any reason this should not be done? We have an extruder that is being fed filament through a tube on display and we are discussing ways to reduce frby kevinkline4124 - General
Another source I got most of my parts for is: (based out of Canada) They also sell complete kits for the Prusaby kevinkline4124 - General
Thanks! This is what I was looking for.by kevinkline4124 - General
I had recently stumbled across a video of a cnc pen plotter and thought it would be cool (and hopefully not hard) to try and make my printer easily adaptable between the two. I was wondering if anyone else has attempted this and what results I can expect. To convert it, I was thinking about adding a pen mount to the extruder carriage then making the pen extend down past the tip of the extruder.by kevinkline4124 - General
I had sent in several suggestion messages to thinigverse about ways to improve their search but each time I received an email thanking me for the suggestions but they would not be implementing them because it would take to much work to do. I am glad to see someone has taken a step in the right direction and will be using your search page a lot. Thank you.by kevinkline4124 - General
I am using a RAMPS 1.4 board which has a connection for a second extruder right between the primary extruder and heated bed (if you have one hooked up) I do not use it for a second extruder so the M 106 command will just output 12v to the connections (I am also using sprinter for my firmware) . See link for wiring diagram of what I am talking about: I had the fan on my electronics for some timby kevinkline4124 - General
Hey, so I have been working on my warm-up procedure for some time now and was wondering how other people go about getting everything warmed up before a print. I thought it would be cool to see some other people's G-Code. I know some stuff is machine specific but the general idea is what I am looking for. So to kick off this thread, here is my start-up file: G21 (Metric FTW) G90 (Absolute Posiby kevinkline4124 - General
I got my kit from there as well and had great service. Something went wrong with the shipping to the US at the time. They worked to correct it and even bumped my standard ground shipping up to UPS without any extra charge. I was very happy with the kit contents as well as the service. I would definitely buy from them again.by kevinkline4124 - General
I can only speak on behalf of the extruder kit as I bought that kit to start. You will need the two printed parts for the main body of the extruder and then the gears which are also generaly printed as well. The only things the kit is missing is some common teflon tape which you may even have around for sealing pipe threads, and a wire ribbon with small crimp on ends to connect to the nicrom wireby kevinkline4124 - General
I belive what you are looking for is something like what the Makerbots have done with an automated build platform. They have a conveyor over a heated surface. I have seen one in action and it seams to do well with multiple builds. As the conveyor move around it peals off the part and drops it over the edge. The lazy susan Idea is also a good one. Using a similar idea you could simply extend tby kevinkline4124 - Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
I had the same problem starting out and I did not use the multiply command to solve it. (I didn't know the command would do it what I started) I modified the startup file and added these two lines of gcode once the printer is in the home position (0,0,0) G92 X-75 Y-95 Z0 (Reset Home Points) G90 (Use absolute Coordinates) The first Line sets the current position to (-75,-90,0) without moving asby kevinkline4124 - General
I don't think I could say the name if I tried either. To remove the fillement, try turning on the heat for the extrude for a few minutes and pulling it back out (this is what I do). Otherwise, you can follow the previous segment in with new fillement like you said. (This is one way people get different colored layers when printing one part) What is your bed made of? If it is just a metal plateby kevinkline4124 - General
I have been printing now for several weeks (a print or two a night) and it has occurred to me that I should print off some replacement parts so that I have them if anything were to break. I was wondering what are the most common parts people have had fail on them if any. Right now I have a set of PLA Bushings printing and will probably do the z-carriages next as I over tightened a screw on oby kevinkline4124 - General
I use Autodesk Inventor and have not had any trouble getting it to work. As a student you can get a free license for the software on Autodesk's education website. I have also used files from Solidworks which also works. I would guess any program that can generate and export a .stl file would work.by kevinkline4124 - General
I have also been interested in doing something like this. You could manually add the line of gcode to turn it on and off at various points but this could be tricky trying to find the right points to do so in the code. With that in mind, I am not sure how you would even go about even trying to make skineforge determine that when generating gcode. If someone knows a good way of doing that I would bby kevinkline4124 - General
I was having a similar problem when I first started out. I did not want to use rafts when I printed quite yet so instead I added a line of gcode to the start up file that simply read G0 F300 It seamed to me that the initial purge of the extruder was too fast because there never was a federate specified before it. I decided to set it low at 300 because this is still during the warm up procedureby kevinkline4124 - General
I cant believe I missed that. Thank you for your help! it is working perfectly now.by kevinkline4124 - General
I have been having an issue with replicatorg not generating gcode for different positions of a part. So I move the part and save it to build at the center of the build platform but no matter what I do the generated gcode puts the part far to the edge of the y axis. I am using skeinforge to generate the gcode. Would this be a problem with a skeinforge setting or replicatorg itself? I have run ouby kevinkline4124 - General
I was having a similar problem with speed in the extruder. You want to change that in skeinforge under the speed tab (I have my feed rates set to 30). It will not change your start up settings however so when it is done warming up, and purging plastic before a build the speed could still be too quick. To fix this I added a line to the start up file that reads "G1 F200.0" right before my extruderby kevinkline4124 - General
Thank you for your help. You were right, the temperature table was wrong. I also removed the heat shrink from the nicrome wire and thermistor and replaced them with kapton tape just in case this is what was burning as well. Hope to be printing by this evening now.by kevinkline4124 - Reprappers
Thanks. I didn't think It was, so I stopped running it after noticing the problem. I will take apart the hot end and see what may be causing the smoke tomorrow.by kevinkline4124 - Reprappers
I recently built a Prusa and have got everything working except for the extruder at this point. I have a Wade's geared extruder and a hotend made from a kit bought at mixshop. It consists of a threaded tube wrapped in nicrom wire. The problem I am having is that when heated up to 190 C with PLA in it, it seams to produce a great deal of smoke. Is this normal when working with PLA? As far aby kevinkline4124 - Reprappers