I am currently building 2 Prusa I3 Where did you buy the metal parts and how much did it end up costing ? Orchard Supply Hardware (4) 1.5in angle steel 12.1" long ~$14 TIG Cut with cold saw to length, then welded. The welds ground smooth, then painted black Smooth rods ~ $14 cut with a cold saw to length. Did you print the plastic parts or buy them ? I have been printing the parts. I alreaby jakowisp - General
Yes, You can match or beat the MakerBot 2 resolution By building your own. But your cost will go up to meet the requirement. Also you will need to do a lot of tweaking. With the Makerbot 2 you get that resolution quickly out of the box, building your own reprap make take several weeks to get the correct resolution.by jakowisp - General
PLA versus ABS has been discussed many times on this board. Typically ABS is used when you need the higher temperature support. PLA tends to get better quality prints and not require a heatbed.by jakowisp - Reprappers
Do you live in a cold climate? I have issues with my printer immidiately shutting down due to "Minimum Temperature trigger" In Marlin if this is hit the entire printer is useless until a reset. The setting is to protect againts shorts in the system. I comment the ABORT code out. on my system.by jakowisp - Reprappers
Go 0.5 for your first reprap and use PLA. I started with ABS....It took a while to get clean prints due to ABS and wrapping. I hear PLA is easy as your first material. The 0.5 will make it a bit faster to print, and shouldn't effect teh quality of what you want to print.by jakowisp - Reprappers
Can you get the Arduino to connect when the RAMPS is not connected? Verifiy That you can execute a simple blinking LED test on the Arduino. Load the firmware and verify that Marlin boots and you have intersting messages going out of the serial port. Do this without any of the motors, sensors, or switches connected. Power off the system. Connect the switches. Power On. Does the Switch statby jakowisp - General
Need more information. What error are you seeing? What firmware are you using? I have had issues with both. "Extruder switched off. MAXTEMP triggered !" "Temperature heated bedswitched off. MAXTEMP triggered !" While usign marlin firmware. In the case of the Extruder, I had a partial short in the temp resistor. When I got to a certain point in the preint the wires would get some tenby jakowisp - General
I have good results of printing ABS. I use kapton tape on glass. Bed temp is 110, and extruder is 230 for first layer. To fight warping use a cooling fan and 'Brim". Don't enable the fan for the first few layers.by jakowisp - General
When printing from ramps you do not need to connect the cable to the PC, if the printing is stopping when you pull the cable out of the USB slot, check your Marlin firmware settings.by jakowisp - General
The difference between the 16 tooth and 18 tooth pulleys. The 18 tooth would do slightly better with backlash due to more teeth connecting to the belt. But not enough to use that as a factor for choosing between the two. Using a 1.8 degree stepper motor the resolution without using multi-stepping 16 teeth * 2.5 mm / 200 steps = 0.2 mm per step. 18 teeth * 2.5 mm /200 steps = 0.225 mm per steby jakowisp - General
Neglected to mention, this is Marlin version 1.0.0 RC2by jakowisp - Reprappers
I am using RAMPs 1.4 and Marlin firmware. I have been experimenting with slic3r inserting custom gcode between layers. The gcode I insert is the following: G1 X135 Y0 ;Move to waiting area M104 S150 ; turn down temperature G4 P90000 ; Wait for a minute and a half M104 S205 ; set temperature M109 S205 ; wait for temperature to be reached G1 E0.50 ;extrude a small amount to make up forby jakowisp - Reprappers
I have printed sperate parts and merged them. I have used SCAD and generated 2 pieces with registers to line the two pieces up, but I did not start from STL files. I had the original scad files. I experimented with using super glue, and acetone. Both worked to join the pieces., with the acetone it took longer and wasn't a strong join. I didn't use the piece in a loaded way, I don't know howby jakowisp - General
I am using replacement glass for 8x10 picture frames, and cutting it down to 8x8. I have seen great results with Kapton tape and 110 prusa MK2 heat bed. The clips hold the glass down perfect for me.by jakowisp - General
I purchased that same heat bed kit on Ebay. I have ditched using the mirror. I wanted multiple plates to test part adhession to fapton tape versus abs juice. I ended up buying multipl 8x10 glass plates for picture frames at home depot and squaring them to 8x8by jakowisp - Reprappers
I have an issue. My MK2 heat bed heats to 110C, I have verified that the reported temperatures are correct. I have left the heat bed at temperature for an hour and randomly sampled the temperatures. Everything has checked fine to this point. I start a print. About the 3rd or 4th layer, the system shuts down with a 'Heat bed maximum threshold error' For debug purposes I change the firmware to,by jakowisp - General
I bought a pair of highly rated Amazon calipers. The other users must have only used them in Inches mode. My calipers work excelent when in Inches mode. But if you switch to MM mode, watch out! It does this thing where it will be approaching a measurement value and then the value jumps by several mm. It seem like it is a mm convertion issue. It is easy to work around, but we shouldn't havby jakowisp - Reprappers
Is your tension on the Y axis cable to high? Can you smoothly move the y axis by hand when the motors are off? Does the Y axis catch on anything? Are you using linear bearings or bushings? You stated that swapping the X/Y motors caused the issue to move to the other axis. perhaps ther is something wrong with micro stepping. Microstepping is very dependant on the current and torque. Try adjustiby jakowisp - Reprappers
Thank you for the heads up. While it conflicts with my experience it is always a benefit to here both the positive and negative experiences when purchasing items.by jakowisp - General
If you are using Marlin, 1) Comment Out #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE in configuration.h For testing purposes only, this should be re-enabled later. 2) Remove the hotend. 3) test that the extruder is able to manually feed and retract the filament.by jakowisp - General
They have bot hot end types on thier site. The resitor type and the NiChrome wire. Thier complete kit includes the Nichrome wire hot end. I didn't have any issue with the NiChrome wire. My issues have all been with the thread rod in the PTFE. I ended up buying a different hot end design due to the PTFE issues.by jakowisp - General
I purchased a kit. My kit was missing the Nichrome wire. They sent me the wire, after having me check a couple times to be sure it wasn't in the kit.by jakowisp - General
i second the Buad rate suggestion, what is your setting in the printer firmware?by jakowisp - General
Thanks Nophead, I don't know if you ansered Bloob's question. But I have certainly been searching for a way to print for lost wax casting. I didn't know if PLA would burn out. Now I just have to make another print head, and order some PLA.by jakowisp - General
When I first built up my prusa I had the same sort of random stoppage due to the MAX TEMP shutoff. My first prints were great, but nothing after that.eventually I found that wire insulation on my extruder temp resitor fused together. They managed to touch the hotend brass tube. This didn't cause a short., but changed the temperature to resitance ratios. I ended spliting the fused wires to aby jakowisp - General
Here is the list of changes I make to configuration.h when doing a firmware update. I am using Marlin and RAMPS 1.4 w/o SD card. a. Comment out #define BAUDRATE 250000 Some windows systems have issues with this BAUDRATE b. Uncomment #define BAUDRATE 115200 c. Set #define MOTHERBOARD 33 d. Comment Out #define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE For testingby jakowisp - General
Is there any schematic diagrams with dimensions for the non-Comercial Off the self parts required to build the Prusa? The scad files are available, you could open them in openScad and export them for you cad program and add dimensions. Otherwise the answer is no. Can CATIA(a cad package) be used to develop the required code for this? If you mean can the software generate a model that the reprapby jakowisp - General
Will the axises move if pluged into the E or Y connections? This will tell you if the motors will work. Will the y axis move if plugged into the X or Z connection? This can tell you if the drivers are still good.by jakowisp - General
You are changing the wrong value. The value you are changing is the number of steps per mm. Which will cause your z lengths to be compresed or elongated if not set right. You want to change #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}by jakowisp - General
Did you only change the configuration settings for the endstops? If so the error may be caused by not finding the right motherboard definition and files.by jakowisp - General