TRoager, Is it happening when homing the Z axis? It happened to me when I updated my Marlin firmware too. I had to revert back to an old Marlin build because I couldnt figure out what the issue was...by pcchameleon - Reprappers
cat.farmer, I initially commented out everything under the auto bed leveling section and when I got this weird issue I went in just commented out the auto bed leveling line. With the feature commented out all of the ifdef lines shouldnt do anything....by pcchameleon - Reprappers
I went through configuration.h and configuration_adv.h thoroughly but I can't find anything that would cause this. I reverted back to the Oct 2013 build I have on file and the Z homing is working correctly again...so I dont know...by pcchameleon - Reprappers
I recently decided to update my Prusa i3 to the latest Marlin firmware (it was on Oct 2013 build). I made all the config changes in the configuration.h file for my old settings. Everything is working from what I can tell as it should except for when I home the Z axis. It just hummed until I turned the trimpot up to about 60% (which seems like way too much and motors hum loudly at idle now). If moby pcchameleon - Reprappers
Thanks for the advice. Looks like Im now in the market for a larger empty spool...by pcchameleon - Reprappers
I have been 3d printing for a few months now and I have used a few different brands of 3mm pla just fine except when I get down to the last 10% of the spool. It seems like their is slight little bends in the pla at the end of the spool... My extruder will just chew it up, jam, and stop extruding... Anyone else run into this issue?by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Update - Working better now - New hotend - J Head 0.35 nozzle - Re-calibrated E Steps with the hotend on No more random hotend cool-downs during the print and no more clogs with the new hotend. I need to do some more fine tuning but Im happy with these results! Thanks for the help and advice!by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Waitaki, I'll do the 100mm test again this time from the top of the extruder. Im not understanding though if the hotend is not currently attached then it should be the same, right? I manually set the filament flush with the bottom of the extruder and then ran out 100mm of filament, measured, and then adjusted until I got a 100mm of filament everytime I ran it for that.by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Well, I have part of problem. My hotend is leaking. After running it for a couple of prints and getting inconsistent amounts of filament coming out, I found it is was leaking. Im not very happy with the buda-style hotend (G3D v1.2). It used to clog up a lot, so I did a full breakdown and replaced the Teflon tubing and it fixed that issue mostly but now it leaks... Long story short, I have orderedby pcchameleon - Reprappers
Yamster, The retraction is currently set at 1mm. I have not changed it yet. I'm have some curls ups but the layer height appears to be correct. For the calibration cube show here is measured right 25mm which was the target height. Initial E step calibration was done with out the hotend attached. Ran it for a 100mm and measured the actual amount that came out and adjusted accordingly. Then hby pcchameleon - Reprappers
1. E-steps have been calibrated. I did a 100mm extrude with no hotend attached to verify and then adjusted for the back pressure after reattaching the hotend but it still seems like too much is coming out... 2. Yes, using a caliper I found an avg of 2.98mm over a couple of feet of filament. I'll make some adjustments in the extruding factor in Slic3r or go over the E-step calibration again. Thby pcchameleon - Reprappers
I just completed printing my first, somewhat successful, calibration cube using my Prusa i3. Currently printing at 172c (175c for the first layer) and .5 nozzle. I slowed down to 20mm/s on the bridges but it still is looking nasty. Also I'm thinking it is extruding too much based on the rough surface... Any thoughts or advice on how to print better? 20mm/s on bridges .22mm layer height PLby pcchameleon - Reprappers
SOLVED: The issue was with Slic3r. It was turning the hotend fan to max after the first layer. I found it in the gcode and then turned on the advanced settings to adjust it and force the fan to run at 20% the whole print. Thanks for everyone's help on this issue.by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Yesterday, I was taking a reading from the Ramps power mosfets and getting 12.16 volts not the D10 terminal. When I take the reading from the D10 terminal I'm getting 11.75 volts when the hotend is on. My question is should the D10 terminal be at least 12 volts when it is on?by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Woodencase, I'm using a 40w 12v heater cartridge 20 mm in length. It heats up with up to 185c in about 10-15mins with a fan blowing on the heatsink (speed of s50). Does that sound normal?by pcchameleon - Reprappers
I have been stuck on this issue now for a couple of days now. My buda hot 1.2 temp drops from 185c at the start of the print to down to about ~145c slowing after about 3 or so layers. I was first using an xbox 360 (203w) ps but I switched to a 410w atx ps but getting the same result. I have turned off the heatbed during the print to rule that out as the power drain too but no change. I tested witby pcchameleon - Reprappers
Nevermind, I found it right in front of face // Disables axis when it's not being used. #define DISABLE_X false #define DISABLE_Y false #define DISABLE_Z false #define DISABLE_E false // For all extrudersby pcchameleon - General
Enlightx Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > jamesdanielv you solved it problem was that i had > Z disabled when not in use. > > why this was causing a problem i have no idea > > thanks guys Where is this setting? In Marlin's configuration.h? or Ponterface?by pcchameleon - General
PROBLEM SOLVED! Solution: Wiring diagram that I was looking at for my motors was incorrect and the wires came shipped that way too. The 4 wires were crossed... I corrected the wiring and all is good! Thanks for everyone's input on this issue.by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Looks like I made a rookie mistake... I bought stepstick drivers instead of pololu...so I looks like that is the problem... So the difference in ohms on the sense resistors is likely causing the issue. Could I change them out from the 0.2ohm to 0.5ohm or Im better off just buy the pololu drivers and selling the stepstick?by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Itek, Yes I pulled the extruder motor off and put it my workbench by itself and it hold it up to the Y driver and then the E0 driver. I got same results, just steps back and forth.. Thanks for the link about the stepper drivers. I'm going to contact the person I bought them from to verify the sensing resistors ohms. Also I will test one of them.by pcchameleon - Reprappers
Hello all, Im currently putting together a Prusa i3 and have hit a road block. The motors (all of them X, Y, Zs, and Extruder) will not step in one direction. They move back and forth erratically. I have adjusted the trimpots on the drivers in different positions from completely counter-clockwise to over half-way. Turning them up just causes more vibration and noise. I got the Arduino 2560 andby pcchameleon - Reprappers
Hello all, My first post here and hopefully an easy question about the hotend parts that I just bought. I got a MK8 .4mm brass nozzle, MK7 thermal tube, and MK7 thermal core for 3mm filament to assemble a J-head. I'm confused on that the interior diameter for the nozzle and thermal tube are ~2.15mm, is that right for 3mm filament or is for 1.75mm filament? Thanks in advanced!by pcchameleon - Reprappers