I wan't to print the mendel parts bad because they usually looked bad for the time period. I am making a mendel because it was the 2nd beginning of reprap history. Not to get quality prints. I mean, The hotend is a drilled out threaded screw. How awesome is that And to clarify I mean the Reprap parts for building a mendel. I wan't to build an actual original mendel. But I want the printed parts fby zastin17 - Reprappers
So this is probably the strangest question ever asked since the beginning of reprap, But is there anyway to make print quality worse? I am going to build a reprap v2 mendel. And I wan't it to be as close as possible to what it would of looked like in the early days. Back then, print quality would of looked like this: Is there anyway to do this? I know I can set the layer height allot higher, Butby zastin17 - Reprappers
So just for the fun of it. I would like to build the original Mendel just for the nostalgia of it. Believe it or not,My high school Has an original fully assembled Mendel V1 that has bean sitting for several years doing nothing. I asked if I could take a look at it. I got all the axis's moving, except for Z. The integrated stepper driver was damaged and could not be replaced.Both the hotend thermby zastin17 - General
I think you misunderstand my question. Its going to be a cheap printer. I already have an FT-5 which uses mgn12 linear rails. I know there amazing. But I'm not planning on spending more than $150. I already have all the electronics motors, heatbed, and power supply, so that takes allot out of the cost. My question is. Vertical x axis like a prusa i3, or horizontal like a Mendel?by zastin17 - General
So I am designing a 3D printer that uses a moving bed as the Y axis. My original post is here: I am working on changing the frame to a more cube shape and eliminating the need for 4 extra extrusions. Anyway, When I just started designing the printer I had 2 8MM horizontal rods spaced 70MM apart. The problem with that is the weight is not evenly distributed on the leadscrews on either side andby zastin17 - General
This is definitely not a bent leadscrew. The wobble seems to be random and not match the leadscrews threads. The only thing I can think of is the z axis skipping or extruder skipping. When you print a cube are the dimensions accurate? Another possibility is a skipping extruder. If the extruder skips, than the extrusion will be random thus the random layer widths. Also if your using a E3d clone,by zastin17 - General
The bed I'm planning on using is my old 200x200MM prusa i3 aluminum laser cut plate. I am thinking that a silicon heated bed would be lighter and better for a heatbed. Or I could skip the heated altogether and use something extremely light like laser cut melamine. I also looked at the belt driven z axis posted by MechaBits. Besides needing one less motor. What are the advantages of this? If theby zastin17 - General
So with your guys suggestions, I changed the x and y axis axis rods from 8mm to 10mm. I also added 2 rods on either side of the z axis so that the bulk of the weight is evenly distributed on the leadscrew. You may be thinking, Where will the GT2 belt go? A standard gt2 belt teeth pulley creates a belt path a bit wider than the leadscrew. So the belt path should be able to go around the leadscrewby zastin17 - General
I tried that, here is the result: Since its just floating in the air it would need some feet. but i'm not sure that its worth the extra parts. Having it mounted to a already rigid frame without the unnecessary length seems like the way to go. especially if I add 2 more struts to the bottom of each y axis extrusionby zastin17 - General
So I have bean working for several days on a entirely self designed 3D printer. It uses a moving bed style y axis and 8MM lead screws for the z axis. I decided to strictly stay away from google, and just use my mind to make it. Meaning the printer was entirely designed using just my mind and things I already know about 3d printers, Except for finding dimensions of bearings and seeing if parts wheby zastin17 - General
I tried adjusting the acceleration in the firmware but it changes nothing. I am looking to set it similar to this. Watch when the axises home.by zastin17 - General
I already have all the parts needed for a new bowden extruder including a e3d v6 I was planning on installing onto my half working not working prusa i3. Yes I do have experience with building printers. This should be no problem. I have access to a machine shop so if I do need new Melimine replacement parts I can make them out of aluminum...... Or print them It just blows my mind how cheap it is.by zastin17 - General
So I am looking to get a better printer for better print quality. I have a prusa i3. It has been nothing but problems. Right now I am battling getting both z axis motors to stay in sync. I saw this printer and youtube and saw that the price was only $499. The printer seems to have solved pretty much any problem that effects print quality. Using linear rails instead of linear rods. Isolating z axiby zastin17 - General
So I have a prusa i3 rework. I have recently purchased many upgrades such as a new upgraded e3d hotend and support brackets. I also recently replaced the ramps board because of a wire trap issue. Recently I have noticed that on most prints the z axis does not move up. I will print an object and come back later and its just smushing the previous layers. Sometimes not moving up at all. I used the sby zastin17 - Reprappers
also I have not edited my original marlin firmware so that's not the problem.by zastin17 - Reprappers
So I receintly purchased lots of new parts for my 3d printer. including new ramps board that was originaly damaged. upgraded jhead to e3d hot end. New brace support rods. I recently rebuilt the main parts of the printer to make sure its all accuratly put together. I re-calibrated the motor current and everything's good. currently i'm trying to print my new bowden extruder made by TECH2C. When priby zastin17 - Reprappers
So I have a prusa i3 I built and I love it but the quality of the prints. Dont get me wrong are very good but not good enough to satisfy my craving for quality. I was looking into getting a p3steel frame laser cut and then getting leadscrews for the z axis. The would cost around $300 total for all my planned upgrades. I saw the ultimaker and its around $1000. The prints are incredible. I mean ridby zastin17 - Reprappers
I was a volunteer staff at a place called omsi in portland oregon. And They have a ultimaker I have messed around with. It seamed so sturdy and rigid system. The prints are perfect. But I have never seen a rostock max printing something. I need someone who has seen both to tell me which has better prints. I don't care about noise speed ect. All I care about is the quality of the prints. I'm alsoby zastin17 - Reprappers
I'm looking to buy a high end 3d printer kit. And I was looking at the ultimaker because it has such amazing prints. I was also looking at the Rostock max v2. Which one has better printer quality? I know the ultimaker is rated for 20 microns. and The rostock max is rated at 50 microns. But both printers can print at 20 microns if calibrated correctly. Which printer has the best overall print qualby zastin17 - Reprappers
OK I'm having a really hard time figuring out the leadscrew configurator on misumi, What is Thread Nominal D(φ), C(mm), J(mm),Q(mm), and S(mm). Its confusing. Also whats RMTSRA MTSRB MTSTRA RMTSRB MTSBRB MTSRA MTSBRA ,by zastin17 - Reprappers
I'M going to buy some 300mm leadscrews. I really am looking for ones with a machined end so that they fit snug into couplings without any play. I have a prusa i3 and the m5 rods are just terrible. Even if there streight the horible couplings and they non machined end still makes them wobble stightly. IM hopping leadscrews will get rid of all this unwanted z crap. Where can I get some machined enby zastin17 - Reprappers
Thanks guys. Since I was already going to get a p3steel it will be an extremely sturdy frame. Probably the sturdiest frame out there. I have seen those rails on some 3d printers and they look promising. Do you have any links to mount them so I have an idea how to mount them? I'm really bad with cad so its very hard for me to make a part for it.by zastin17 - Reprappers
So my prusa i3 has some really cheap bearings and they don't fit flush on the 8mm rod. They wiggle back and forth. The heat bed wiggles and so does the extruder body. I want to make the printer as sturdier and accurate as possible. I'm going to get a p3steel frame laser cut soon to fix most of the stability issues with the frame. But that wont fix the problems with the y and x axis from wiggling.by zastin17 - Reprappers
I have a prusa i3 that is perfectly calibrated. When I print a 20mm by 20mm cube the cube turns out perfect 20 by 20. But when printing things that print and go together like this or any other part like this. It does not fit correctly. My extrusion and all axis are literally perfect measured over and over and there extremely perfect especially when the 20x20 cube was perfect its not x y z or e.by zastin17 - Reprappers
So I am going to buy a fillastruder soon. I also just ordered a e3d v6. So plastic temp wont be a problem. When I get the fillastruder I want to make my own fillament with old cups or toys mil jugs ect. What are some plastics that work well or ok and what plastics correspond to what objects. Like HDPE is milk jugs.by zastin17 - General
and again I need to know if its worth it.by zastin17 - Reprappers
So last year before Christmas I purchased a prusa i3 kit from replikeo. When I received the kit I assembled it and it was pretty smooth. I love my 3d printer allot. I use it all the time and I am always looking for ways to improve it. I decided that I was going to get the p3steel frame laser cut. That would cost around $160. After doing some research I saw the mendal max 1.5. it looked very sturdby zastin17 - Reprappers
So I made a earlier topic asking this with no luck. Basically I want to add some linear rails instead of bearings and smooth rods. I'm going to also add ball screws and lead screws to all my axis's. I'm basically going to make my prusa perfect. I cant find anywhere with any files that could accommodate extrusion rods. I want them for my x and y axis. I'm not good at design with 3d programs like iby zastin17 - Reprappers
So I have a question. So I noticed that my prusa i3 x axis wiggles up and down if I touch it. Also the same thing happens to my heat bed. If I try to wiggle it it will slighly wiggle left and right. Is this normal. Is it my berrings? Question 2. I want to upgrade to v slot extrusion on my x axis. I cant find anywhere and parts that will accommodate this. I'm also really bad at modeling so I don'tby zastin17 - Reprappers