Nice! For the skipping, I increased temp and that helped alot. I was up to 250 before I figured out that I needed to increase the vref voltage at my extruder motor. After that I can print at 220-230. QuoteSRM QuoteDriftyDave QuoteSRM yesterday I finally assembled and calibrated my Prusa i3, but after installation of Repetier-host, in Manual Control section I see no temp slider for heatbed. alby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteggherbaz That last one is a nice design. On the linear bearings, don't get cheap Chinese ones. (Really expensive) but the best Japanese bearings in the market: Igus bushings: Looking for something in between cheap China bearings and really expensive Japanese. Any thoughts on medium cost bearings?by DriftyDave - Reprappers
QuoteSRM yesterday I finally assembled and calibrated my Prusa i3, but after installation of Repetier-host, in Manual Control section I see no temp slider for heatbed. all other settings are ok. does anyone can tell me what I missed. thanks My first thought is to check the bed thermistor and make sure it is connected to the RAMPS properly. Also test to see if the thermistor is functional.by DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekrwynn Holy smokes. Thanks for this. Bed heats up in half the time. Went from 8 minutes to 4. Nice! It has made a big difference for me after the marlin update. The bed acts like it used to using the Folger provided version of marlin. I have a quick question I'm hoping someone knows the answer too. When a print finishes on my printer the x carriage homes, then the z homes, then y homesby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally got this new print head setup all printed and installed. It is Sweet!! Love the design and it all went together perfectly. Folger Technologies E3D Direct Drive The first link I posted was for a make, not the original design.by DriftyDave - Reprappers
Quotehockey9999 Definitely let me know how it works out. I'm curious to see if you get accurate temps with the infrared thermometer, after changing to 1. I am getting much more accurate temps using 1 as a value for bed thermistor. RAMPS says 80 and my infrared thermometer is showing 82. The bed comes up to temp really fast too! I printed and installed the extruder design from last page. It wby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
No thoughts on linear bearings? I'd love to find something better but not sure how to judge quality... I may just place an order and see if they run any better. I am currently printing: Folger Technologies E3D Direct Drive. THis should work much better then my cobbled together direct drive.by DriftyDave - Reprappers
I just installed a E3Dv6 clone and its running really well. I had to pull it apart and clean it up a tad but it came in looking good and the prints are so very much better then the old hot end. I use 6 for both extruder and bed thermistors. I'll give 1 a try on the bed and see how that goes. Thanks!by DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehockey9999 Thanks! That would be awesome, I don't have a way to measure the bed temp other than trusting the thermistor reading - which is definitely different between firmware versions. I've read elsewhere that it seems to take longer to heat in 1.0.2 - maybe it doesnt actually take longer to heat, it takes longer because it is overheating? My infrared thermometer is reading 90c when itby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I upgraded a few weeks ago and noticed some bed issues as well. I didn't change anything in pins.h though. My bed takes forever to heat up after the upgrade and I had to insulate for the first time. I do remember thinking that the bed seemed hotter then it was showing. I'll measure the actual temp tonight and see what I am getting.by DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I think I got it temporarily at least. I used: Extruder for FolgerTech Prusa i3 for an Extruder and then mounted: E3D V6 lite6 Mount under it to hold the E3Dv6 knockoff. The filament path isn't perfect but I was able to carve the parts down a tad to allow the filament to flow freely into the PTFE liner. I need to finish up wiring in the new hot end, thermistor, and fan.by DriftyDave - Reprappers
I had this same thing happen when I updated to the latest version of Marlin, was working great before. My solution was to insulate the bed. I glued a piece of corkboard under the heated bed. I glued it to the y carrage so it sits about 10mm under the heated bed itself, leaving a small airgap. Now my heated bed runs about 50% of the time and keeps temp nicely. Good luck!by DriftyDave - Reprappers
Awesome work guys! I bought the hardware at lunch today. Can't wait to see the final design! My new hot end should be sitting at home when I get there. QuoteTardisrepair Hardware list for dbrewski's E3D v6 direct drive extruder remix This is what I used, I had a lot of this already but bought fresh hardware just in case 1x M4x50 screws (idler tension) 4x M4x30 screws (a little shorby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I found a nice design that mounts the E3D v6 to the direct drive extruder I linked above: E3D V6 lite6 Mount for direct drive extruder included with Folgertech Prusa I3 kit This might work until I can find a way to mount the extruder motor away from the hot end. I found the Airtripper Bowden Extruder BSP Edition this morning and may give it a try.by DriftyDave - Reprappers
Finding STL files for the hot end and extruder motor mount is tough. I think I found a good hot end mount here: E3dv6 x-axis mount for Folger Tech Prusa i3 I'd like to use my current direct drive extruder: Extruder for FolgerTech Prusa i3 (v-groove bearing and flat feeder) but I need something to mount the motor to the acrylic frame and something to attach the PTFE liner tube to the extruder.by DriftyDave - Reprappers
I think I'll give it a try. Just placed an order for a china E3Dv6 knockoff. I'll search for some instructions online. Any chance you have a link? I found this video on e-bay:Polishing a 3D printer hot end barrel with sand Also: 3d printer hot end review! All metal hot End - J-Head FIXby DriftyDave - Reprappers
Where are you located? I wouldn't mind printing this and shipping it to you at cost. Do you have a STL file in mind?by DriftyDave - Wanted
Thanks for the advice. I am noticing that with some of the clones the reviews are very mixed... Some people say they worked great and others say they are a major failure. I think the number of designs out there is what is so confusing. I was hoping some folks could post links to the parts they used and how well they worked out for them.by DriftyDave - Reprappers
I built a Prusa i3 sold by Folger Technologies about a month or so ago. I love it and have learned so much about these amazing machines. I have a few updates I have done and a few more I want to do. The printer is working well overall but I have a need to constantly tinker and I'm not ready to move on to the next project yet. I am looking to install a E3Dv6 hotend. Was thinking that separatiby DriftyDave - Reprappers
Just a quick update on my heat bed issues. Not sure why the troubles started after the firmware upgrade, but I put a piece of cork board under the bed, added larger springs, and longer M3 bolts to the bed. Now instead of the bed heater being full on for the entire print and struggling to keep 90, it is 30 seconds on and 30 seconds off and maintains 90 quite well. In addition I have more play wby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone else notice bed temp issues after updating to the latest Marlin? My bed used to get up to temp pretty quick, with or without corkboard on top. Now it is pitiful, very slowly gets up to 80ish and then stalls and even heads back down a couple degrees. Finally makes it there but is taking much much longer... Is this a setting that may be off? My configuration.h file is modified to matchby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
My clicking issues went away when I bumped up the vref on my extruder stepper. Keeping moisture out of the filament is also very important. Before these two things I had to print at 265 on ABS and reduce all speeds to 30mm to not get constant clicking.by DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I used the latest Marlin from GitHub and had to add the U8glib library to my Arduino software to get the controller to function. Took some editing of Configuration.h to match everything up and there is a ton of extra stuff in the new version. Over all it went well. I think I'll probably add that Diode but I might be lazy and just plug the arduino into a USB brick. Thanks for the info! I enby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepabloevaristo Great, I've been having issues with that thing too... Could you post some photos of the adjustment process. Thanks! First loosen the 8 nuts that attach the bed frame to the acrylic frame. Raise the extruder to 35mm and move the heated bed to about 100mm. Place the glass up against the X axis smooth rods as shown in the picture. Then use a decent square to check that the bedby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I finally fixed the problem I have been having with the squareness of my X & Y axis. Wow what a fight! The acrylic frame must be a bit twisted or something. In order to make the X & Y square I had to slide the right side frame bolt back like a half inch. To measure how square these two axis were I used a piece of bed glass flat across the back of the X axis smooth rods and slid it dowby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I played with that frame for ages and cannot get the X & Y axis square. Kinda driving me nuts at this point. For lots of prints it doesn't matter but when printing cases for things like the Pi and the SmartController a few milimeters off means the case doesn't line up by enough to make it useless. Any ideas? I need a procedure to follow or something. Maybe a steel frame...by DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebenjarick I hope I can get mine to work. It just spazzes out in the front of the bed spitting filament but not moving. In like 2 minutes the Repetier Host says the print is all done when it should have taken well over an hour. Any chance you have Bed front and Bed left set to 200? Check in Printer settings -> Printer Shape. These should both be 0. Quotebmfcamaro Hello, I just got mby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
I had a question about the squareness of my prints that I was hoping someone had some familiarity with. Over all my prints have been really nice and I've been printing stuff like mad... I just noticed yesterday on a large flat rectangular print that the sides of the print are off. Looking at the piece on the bed from the front going towards the back of the printer the sides of the object leanby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekrwynn QuoteVanbot The one instant improvement I'd like to make it to the extruder. It's a pain to thread in new filament. Does anyone know of a design that works with the existing hot end to allow easier filament changes? This one is great. Have had zero problems since installing it. Love it actually. Extruder for FolgerTech Prusa i3 (v-groove bearing and flat feeder) I just printed and iby DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot What was your reasoning behind adding another bearing? The whole carriage vibrates more then I'd like it too, especially when i put a belt tensioner on. Was thinking a fourth bearing might help it run smoother. Quotethanks78 I did change the Y belt bracket as well to a clamping one, no zip ties, so munch nicer. Do you have a link? This sounds like something I could use!by DriftyDave - Prusa i3 and variants