Thank you for you replies! DD and Floyd the first layer is extruding with 235c and others with 230 frankvdh I will try to respond to the points you mentioned as good as I know. Please let me know if I and in which form I could get the best the information to you. temperature PID calibration: could you send me a good resource for the calibration cooling fans: just have 1 fan, which never turneby ame - Printing
Hi all, I built a purse i3 and everything works fine: heat bed heating up, hotend heating, x,y,z axis. The only problem is the feeding of the ABS: If I remove the hotend feeding works fine. As soon as the hotend is attached to the extruder, the feeding of the ABS seems to be missing force. When I try and start to print a test cube, the ABS melts and extrudes something like 1cm of curly ABS andby ame - Printing
Thank you Olaf and imqqmi, - I use thick cables for the heated bed, 2mm - the power connection uses 3 cables from the PSU per +/- all with 12A (images attached) - neither for the heated bed or extruder I had to clamp cables - I was able to read the hotend temp while heating up and it was climbing constantly. I also got constant room temperature when the hotend stopped working. - with the ardunby ame - Reprappers
Thank you James, USB on my computer is still working, tried it with a usb drive and by charging my phone.by ame - Reprappers
Hi everybody, long time no hear welcome to my next episode... I bought a new RAMPS board from the guys at and connected all the wires one at a time and tested it: heated bed, extruder, stepper motors. Everything worked as expected, just the extruder heated up and would not stop at the requested temperature. So I switched off everything disconnected, connected and double checked every connectioby ame - Reprappers
Thank you Eric and Tim! I measured the MOSFET gate voltage by measuring the outer pins. Without power I get 0V, with power 0.2V and the LED is flickering. I am certain the MOSFET has finally failed... I was hoping to avoid a soldering job on the RAMPS board as I don't consider myself a solder wizard At least we found the problem (well, all of the posters suggested it since the beginning...) Iby ame - Reprappers
Tim: - I measured the end stops and get constant 5V on all of them - Where can I set this jumper to enable the 5V rail? Eric: - How do I measure the gate voltage? To summarise: a) If I have RAMPS board and Arduino connected and all the other cables unplugged: - red light ON - 12.2V on both power inputs coming from the ATX power supply - 12.2V voltage on D8 - 5V on all end stops - I can touch thby ame - Reprappers
Thank you Tim, I will look into that tomorrowby ame - Reprappers
I finally found the time to measure the 5V rail and it gives me 0 I tried it several times and tried any combination of the 3 pins. What does this mean? Thank you, Andreasby ame - Reprappers
blabbersnitch: Thank you for the information about how to measure the resistance I measure a constant 0.3 Ohms when I short the probes together. Now, without power on the RAMPS I measure 1.2-1.1 Ohms on the heat bed. I connected the heat bed again and powered up everything and measure 9.3V on the heat bed. After mounting the RAMPS board on the Arduino I tried to connect to set the temperature mby ame - Reprappers
Thank you for the explanation on the resistance Tim Soldering of the heat bed: what do you mean by correct pads? I just have these 2 pads on the bed so there is no other way I could connect the wires. I see power of 12.16V when the LED is on and none when it's off so that should be right (no heat bed connected). Without the heat bed connected I can even touch the MOSFET and it does not get hotby ame - Reprappers
Thank you all for your help and response! Tim: yes, disconnecting the heat bed resolves the overheating problem (the light is still on though). The voltage on the output terminals on the RAMPS without the heat bet reads 12.2V, so that is correct. I am sorry to ask this but I am very new to electronics, so I don't know how to measure the resistance, I attached an image of my multimeter if you couby ame - Reprappers
Thank you Tim, I measured 0.56V on the heat bed which is strange, right? I just removed all the connection (motors, sensors, heat bed, extruder...) and just connected the power supply for the heat bed and the red light went ON again. So this means there is a short circuit on the RAMPs board? Is there a way to find where the short circuit is and fix it? Sorry for all my questions and thank youby ame - Reprappers
The is strange, as it did work already before the auto tune command. I also bought the RAMPS board already ready and didn't solder anything, just the wires to the hot bed. Do you think if I re-solder the hot bed it could work?by ame - Reprappers
Thank you for your reply dc42. I just checked the current from the power supply and I am measuring a constant 12.3V Any other ideas? Should I leave it turned on and see what happens, maybe everything works out fine or will it just burn the RAMPS board?by ame - Reprappers
Hi all, I am new to 3D printing and just finished my first purse i3 build, please point me in the right direction if this question has been answered already once. I calibrated my stepper motors and extruder temperature and everything worked like a charm When I issued the auto tune command 'M303 E-1 C8 S90' to get the values for the heat bed a red LED turned on and the heat bed FUSE started toby ame - Reprappers