I had a simular problem. The connectors that connected the display to the board were overly tight and took a very hard push to seat properly. As a computer consultant, I would say almost twice the force required on similar cables I have used in the past. Support the board when pushing that hard.by bob414 - General
The extruder motor does not work like the x,y and z y motors. How did you test the extruder motor? Did you try it at temperature while actually printing? Suggest trying do that before doing anything else.by bob414 - Reprappers
This will sound a little simple, but I had SD problems on my build. I was checking out everything and determined that it took an more than average push on the Display connectors to seat them. I work on computer for 30 years and I was surprised at the force required. Bobby bob414 - Reprappers
I do not have a website, the source is That is where I will put useful designs. If your Z axis is making a lot of noise, that could be either linear bearing (a popping noise) or not being parallel between the rods (a squealing noise), this also cut down on the rattle of the z-axis screws. After I stabilized the lower end of the Z-axis rods, my Z- axis screw rods stopped being a issue. Bobby bob414 - Reprappers
Glad I could help. My Z Axis stepper motors do not make a abnormal amount of noise, that normally indicates a bearing problem.. I was getting a rattle from the Z axis screws, that settled down when I modified the bottom of the Z axis rods to stop them from wobbling, That mod is included on this website under HICTOP mod and upgrades. My most recent problem, was SD card recognized, but not reby bob414 - Reprappers
The screw axis is also wobbling in mine, predominantly on the right side, I figure that if the z rods do not wobble, the affect is minimized. Since the z axis screw coupling has two screws, pushing the screw to one side, I do not see a solution for that wobble. I have also designed a cover for the electronic board and caps for the end of some of the aluminum frames. Still do not have a good sby bob414 - Reprappers
Here is my Z-rod mod installed. I have install one on each side on the metal plate that holds the Z stepper motors. Hope this helps. Bobby bob414 - Reprappers
Another mod from Bob I went to a local glass shop and bought a glass pane to set on top of the aluminum hot bed using small bulldog clips. This provides a flat surface to print on, and a hard surface to prevent scratching the soft aluminum plate. Does not need to be a special type of glass for PLA, have not tried with ABS. Working Great So Far! Bobby bob414 - Reprappers
I have been "PLAYING" with my HicTop metal Alum printer for about 6 weeks now. I have noted a major problem in the Z axis rod capture on the Z axis motor plates. They wobble badly, I reported the problem to HicTop and designed a solution. I added a thin plate to the outside of the Z axis motor plates, this stabilizes the lower Z rods. I kept the plate thin as to still used the original screwsby bob414 - Reprappers
From the picture, IMG_1293.jpg (59.2 K looking from the front of the printer, I see that you have the double y axis carriage bearing on the right side. My instruction show that is is on the left. See step 16 in instructions. That should get your y-axis limit switch to align. Mine does under that alignment. Hope this helps.by bob414 - Reprappers
I have my HICTOP metal frame printer up and running. Getting some good quality prints. To Contact HICTOP: REMEMBER THAT HICTOP IS IN CHINA! I have had excellent results using SKYPE phone after 9PM EDST( approx. 2 cents a minute charge). There is a 12 hr time difference between China and me. The online discussion with Caroline area is almost worthless. Repair parts from China take >1wk fby bob414 - Reprappers