So how do you mitigate this, and what could have been wrong with my printer in the past that was causing it not to ooze so much? It seems like it was working better when it wasn't oozing so much even though that's apparently abnormal. With the current state of oozing I can't get any recognizable prints most of the time because the filament ends up stick to the nozzle in a blob.by printingandprinting - Printing
I was printing PLA and PET-G just fine yesterday (switched filament types twice, did a a cold pull to switch) but then all of a sudden after having done several prints of PLA, I began getting botched prints - the filament had ended up getting stuck in a blob on the nozzle. Upon closer observation, the nozzle was dripping - it looks like it's extruding slowly when I'm not extruding. I tried loweby printingandprinting - Printing
Particularly with PET-G, my nozzle just keeps on dripping when I have it at 210ºC with the extruder motor unplugged.. I've even gone as low as 160ºC and I still get dripping (less, but still quite objectionable). Is there a way to check if my nozzle is damaged or figure out what the problem is? I don't have a spare nozzle, I'd have to order that. My Z-axis was improperly set several times soby printingandprinting - Printing
Wow, thanks, I appreciate it Floyd. How did you fix it?by printingandprinting - Printing
I imported an STL file into Cura from thingiverse and it shows the print time as 0 minutes. It should take a lot longer than even 1 minute. Any idea how to fix this? Here's the file: PS: So far I've only encountered this problem with this part.by printingandprinting - Printing
If I have my nozzle set to even as low as 180ºC, PLA keeps dripping from the Nozzle when I'm not printing. I'm a noob to 3D printing but I don't recall this much dripping when I first got this printer weeks ago. Is this normal? Is there a way to prevent this? There were several instances when first setting up the printer where it essentially engraved a shape on my metal heated bed, so I'm wonby printingandprinting - Printing
QuoteJamesK Wow, that's an incredibly detailed model for the size you're printing it at! It will be fantastic if you can get a good print of that in wood - and it's tempting enough to make me want to order some bronze! Yeah, I figured it may be a good test of resolutionby printingandprinting - Printing
QuoteDownunder35m I am quite sure you are too fast for woodfill and in most systems it does not like retractions too much either. So maybe lower the print speed by ½? Anything else?by printingandprinting - Printing
First time printing wood…sculpture print came out very stringy in the x-axis direction. It looks like there’s a lot of things that could be causing the issue, namely retraction? What do you think is the first thing I should mess with in Cura to try to alleviate the stringiness? I'm printing on a Hictop 3DP11 Prusa mendel. Here’s the the part from thingiverse, my print is hardly recognizableby printingandprinting - Printing
QuoteDavid J I think it's the photo - I've used cable like that in the past, a pair of wires in red and black. When you pull them apart it leaves a bit of red on the black sleeving. My cable is the stuff used in solar panel insulation, good for 25A or so and I don't think that this is much thinner. Nowadays I use the silicone-sleeved stuff that's made for electric R/C aircraft - not expensive,by printingandprinting - Reprappers
QuoteDavid J Quotethe_digital_dentist 12V is 12V. It doesn't matter if it comes from a 20A supply or a 300A supply. 1. Put a multimeter across the power supply when everything is on - heatbed, hot end, the lot. If the meter shows 12v the the power supply is good enough, if the voltage has dropped then the supply is inadequate. 2. If the supply is good, I would put the meter across the terminalsby printingandprinting - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist 12V is 12V. It doesn't matter if it comes from a 20A supply or a 300A supply. If the voltage is the same, the heater will deliver the same amount of heat. You need to increase voltage by a few volts or get a higher powered 12V heater. If you get a higher powered heater you may also need a higher power rated power supply, and you may have to check the current limit ofby printingandprinting - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist The reason it takes almost forever to get close to your target temperature is simply that there is not enough power going into the heater. Insulating the underside of the platform will help a little, but you'll still be waiting forever for the bed to heat up to print temperature. If it takes a long time to get the bed up to temperature the PID controller will have a harby printingandprinting - Reprappers
Thanks for the suggestions. Isn't the melting point of styrofoam ~ 240 °C?by printingandprinting - Reprappers
Does styrofoam work?by printingandprinting - Reprappers
I see, what sort of insulation?by printingandprinting - Reprappers
I recently got a Hictop 3DP11 Prusa i3 kit and i'm trying to print in ABS for the first time but the heated bed is not going up to 110ºC, the highest it goes is 108ºC after 40 mins of heating...sometimes it goes down to 107 or 106ºC. What could be going on here? Is the power supply they've given just inadequate? It's rated 12v DC/20a output.by printingandprinting - Reprappers
ISSUE RESOLVED: I had mounted the part that holds the Y limit switch on backwards. Heh.by printingandprinting - Reprappers
Their tech support is unresponsive...this is the printer I'm talking about; it uses the MKS Base v1.4 board:by printingandprinting - Reprappers
Here’s a video of the issue occurring: We managed to get 1 successful small print in PLA using the Hictop 3DP11 Pursa i3 kit but after that whenever we start a print (same G-code file that was printed successfully), the printer will begin to move to the end of the X or Y axis and then beginning crashing into the end of travel which results in a very loud noise that resembles a jackhammer, whichby printingandprinting - Reprappers