Just saying the calculated z step value for my machine had to be tweeked. It might be actually moving 0.212 mm when you tell it to move 0.200. Based on newest pics I would look into feed/temperature issues. Good luck.by appdev007 - Reprappers
I have lived in one pretty small town and now live in a 3rd largest in the state town. The small town had a supplier who specialized in only nuts and bolts. The bigger town has three. All four of them carry at least some metric. I currently live in the larger town and I was able to source all of my M8 threaded, M8 smooth, M5 threaded, M3 bolts, and nuts/washers for the lot. What one of them didn'by appdev007 - Reprappers
Buzz is probably either a wrong current setting (v-ref) or incorrectly wired motors. / higher \ / higher \ / \ / \ / low \/ low \ / low \/ low \ | | | | | | UUUUUUUU UUUUUUUU 1A 1B 1C 2A 2B 3B | Coil 1 | | Coil 2 | ------------------- ---by appdev007 - Reprappers
I think both of my ramps were assembled in Asia by two different sources. I inspected the joints when I received them and didn't see anything that looked bad. My first one took out my Arduino, but I suspect that had I kept using it it would have meet the same fate because the warm up speed seeds were the same. This second one got too hot on the 11 amp side of the 11 amp connection. I'm using wireby appdev007 - Reprappers
So I've been using my printer since about the end of May and it has always taken for EVER (35 min) for my PCB heat bed to reach 110 deg. During that time it has melted the + side of the 11 amp connector a bit around the pin, browned the clear coat on the top of the PCB, and separated the trance on the bottom of the PCB. I have said f this, that is enough. How do you tell who etched you PCB. Itby appdev007 - Reprappers
I asked about layer height because it looked like your layers weren't smashed together enough. I think your Zs being loose could have been causing some of this. It might be squashed on the bottom now because the tip of the hot end is making better contact with the print and now that 190 deg is just too much down there for it. Notice how the widening shrinks as you go up? That's probably your hotby appdev007 - Reprappers
Prusa i2 0.4 mm j-head (hotends.com) 0.2 mm layer height 0.5 mm layer width Ultimachine blue ABS 230 deg hot end 110 deg heat bed Sorry, only PLA I have on hand is clear and it wouldn't have been very good for this purpose.by appdev007 - Reprappers
Hey, that is a ton better than what you had before! 1. What type of plastic is that? 2. What was the hot end temp? 3. What was the heat bed temp? 4. What layer height was set for that print? (I'm strongly expecting temperature issues for the bottom of the print.) fractal5 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This is the result: > > > > Notice theby appdev007 - Reprappers
Sorry, I intended to include that. Some say to reuse an application of whatever material. I have had mixed results trying to use hairspray and glue stick more than once. These two actually come off with warm running water. I clean the glass afterwards with isopropyl alcohol (wouldn't recommend rubbing alcohol) before re applying. Jo1212 Wrote: ----------------------------------------------------by appdev007 - Reprappers
The heat bed isn't always flat and gets worse as it heats up. Use glass. Some say they can get parts to stick right to glass others (like me) need something to put on the glass. Now what to put on it is the question. Seems different people have success with different things: With bed heated: ABS Juice (ABS dissolved in acetone) Hair Spray School Glue Stick Various kinds of fruit juices (includinby appdev007 - Reprappers
Take a pic of all the non hard drive connectors and post it please.by appdev007 - Reprappers
I've figured out the problem. Your printer runs too slow. Like it's got to be the slowest one ever made. ; ) fractal5 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am printing this cube now.by appdev007 - Reprappers
No, set in fill to like 25% and let it rip. I made that box to have side walls in multiples of 0.4 and asked you to set that just for the reason you were talking about above. fractal5 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > appdev007 Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Set your layer height to 0.2 and width over > >by appdev007 - Reprappers
1. You can put anything on top the glass that will stick to the glass. 2. Sorry, no help here. 4. Flats are actually not recommended for the Z motors. It is said they could cause the coupler to not center properly. I have heard of people putting all kinds of stuff on kapton tape. Everyone seems to have success with different substances when it comes to sticking parts. The best results I've had hby appdev007 - General
I think you might need to provide a little more detail. 3dlong Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello, does anybody have knowledge about heat > treatment of nozzles?by appdev007 - Reprappers
My vote is for RAMBO. I haven't upgraded to it yet, but from what I've read it sounds the best.by appdev007 - Reprappers
Set your layer height to 0.2 and width over thickness to 2. I'm going for an extrusion width of 0.4. Then print this cube. It's in-filled on bottom and hollow on top. If the in-fill is really the issue, then the bottom should print bad and the top print good right?by appdev007 - Reprappers
The smaller the opening, the narrower the with of plastic you can extrude. Less width means finer horizontal resolution. Your extrusion width has to be wider than your opening.by appdev007 - Reprappers
The configuration file in the source for the i3 parts states that the GT2 belts come in different thickness’s. I guess the guy who printed your parts chose the one you didn't have. Try gluing a piece of sandpaper to a thin stiff material and sanding the non-tooth side of the opening. It's important you don't sand the teeth or your belt won't hold when you do get the opening wide enough. I would dby appdev007 - Reprappers
Caedis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Endstops allow you to tell the software where the > your printbed is. I.E. you adjust your endstops so > that the nozzle of the hot end hits the end stop > as it reaches the limit in the x, y, or z > directions. To expound on this, when the axis hits the end stop, it sets the position for that axis to zero. Ifby appdev007 - Reprappers
frac, my first thin wall cube print was worse than yours. The layers wouldn't even set on top of each other. It took tweaking just to get it to look like yours. I spend a lot of time moving my axises and measuring. Once I had them all, including the extruder. moving the exact amount they were suppose to my print moved from looking like yours to something more reasonable. The step value I ended upby appdev007 - Reprappers
So yes, it would appear that infill is playing into your problem because this cube has neater walls. I think you might need to adjust your Z steps a bit. I think it's raising the head too much and the plastic isn't getting smashed together enough. I also think the retraction in you slicer might be up too high. I'm going to guess that worst side is where it was changing layers and therefore doingby appdev007 - Reprappers
What pins do you short on the connector for these to get them to run? Could you post a model number from one of them? Irish_Steve Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The ones I got are from DELL 6850 servers, they > can be modified to join 2 in series, with care, as > if it's not done correctly and the cases short, > that will also short one of the suppliby appdev007 - General
A while back someone posted a question about how much it cost to build a Prusa Mendel and I told them It cost me $600 USD and then some, but told them I had read where someone done it for like $300 and if I could find it I would post it. Well I found that article again, so here it is. It was codecreations who sourced it. Better late than never I say. : ) Edit: P.S. Sorry if you site get's hammeby appdev007 - Reprappers
If it's an issue with your hot end, then the hobbed bolt should be shredding the snot out of your filament. If this isn't happening I'm going to go with an extruder issue. What type do you use? You need to make sure the filament is staying in the notch of the hobbed bold. Once you are sure of this, I'm assuming there is a pressure adjustment to push the filament against the hobbed bolt. I thinkby appdev007 - Reprappers
Your pics are always from on end, so I can tell. Is this an infilled box? If it is filled then what does this one look like when printed on your printer?by appdev007 - Reprappers
Boy, I've got stuff to say, but don't have time, hopefully tonight (GMT – 6) I will. In the meantime fractal, I suggest you read over what Triffid has to say about layer height and width in relation to nozzle size.by appdev007 - Reprappers
waitaki, please correct me if I misunderstood or don't explain the procedure properly. waitaki was concerned about this part of your statement "measured the actual amount that came out". When calibrating the E steps you measure the amount that went in. (I think you should do this with the hot end on and hot, but there are others who think you can do it with the hot end off, so you choose.) Maby appdev007 - Reprappers
The source all the printer parts yourself, instead of buying a kit, and by each piece slowly over time. clplax Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- ... > Honestly, I’ve probably “invested” that > amount or more in other hobbies over the years the > only difference is many small purchases. ...by appdev007 - Reprappers