The sagging could be from not having a large enough infill % which supports the top.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTylerDSAudi Quotetjnamtiw Customs fees? How much were they? I have never paid customs fees for any electronics shipped to me here in the US from Aliexpress. Yes most packages that are bigger coming into Canada from China i have to pay Customs, Its not too much around $20, but still $20. It has to be a bigger box though, all my other stuff from China doesn't get taxed. Interesting! In aby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Ok thanks, it's feeding the right way now. It feeds for about 200 mm before it gets stuck. I'm guessing I need to adjust the feed/flow rate. What's the difference between the two? Before you do that first print you must calibrate your extruder. Watch this video. You can input his coding in the Manual section of Repetier. When you input the R1 E100 S90, you'll see that theby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
What are the advantages of therippa firmware?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Srcga, I couldn't agree more! Yes, they are having growing pains, but you couldn't ask for better service! A few mistakes in the manual will be fixed soon but in the meantime, answers are available here.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Customs fees? How much were they? I have never paid customs fees for any electronics shipped to me here in the US from Aliexpress.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
That's great, LancelotL, I am keeping mine running like a champ. I reset my jumpers under my stepstick and now my ESteps are 99, which makes me feel better. I printed out a set of 4 things twice today and it all looks great. I hope I don't wear it out! hahaha. Everything is running nice and quiet. When I built it, I kept the bearings on one side slightly loose so that they would align beby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Earlier I described a 'problem' I was having trying to calibrate my extruder. I ended up with a very questionable value of 26 for the EStep value. Folger Tech emailed me last night to check the three jumpers under the Stepstick. I received the Arduino/Ramps/Stepstick already assembled so I ASSUMED that everything was OK. Pulled of the extruder stepstick just now and, lo and behold, one of theby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Nice TJ! I just built mine and found I am having the same bad thermistor issue. Thank you for posting! Thanks! An email to Folger had me a new complete hot end in two days even though I just asked for a thermistor! Now I have a spare heater, tip and block for my troubles! Try that with something from China! The wire was indeed cut when they crimped the piece of copper tubby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Just a few of the things I've made so far. The detail on the pilot bust is far better than I imagined it would be. Currently printing 8 of the toothpaste squeezers at once to try out multiple prints. The wife wants some cookie cutters for Christmas already. I made a mistake telling her about Thingiverse!by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepaultnl You are probably right about the translation. Repeteir firmware is perfectly good configuration details can be found here If you have the file from the SD card upload it to the web site and you will be able to walk through all of the details with explanations of what each setting does. Details of the Melzi can be found here That's good info for Tyler. Thanks. Actually, thatby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
That's interesting about Cura. I played with it a lot before I got my printer just to see what all this 3D printing was about. I haven't been back to it since. I've been madly printing all kinds of 'stuff'. As far as centering the bed, Camaro-man, what I did was to move my X end stop to the left 10 mm and my Y stop forward 10 mm. That way when the printer moves over 90 mm, it actually movby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been connecting with my laptop for the last week several times a day as I get used to the printer and make changes. Today was the first day that I got an error that nothing was recognized on Com port 4 (my printer). It was ALSO the first time I plugged in the USB plug BEFORE I opened up my laptop and woke it up. I unplugged it, plugged it back in and went to printer settings in Repetier.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebuilt350camaro Quotetherippa Quotebuilt350camaro I have a silly question. When I home everything and then move my Y axis a negative amount it moves the bed toward the front. is that intended? The endstop is at the back like it is built. Everything seems to print fine just checking to see. No, if everything is setup up right it shouldn't move that way. When it's homed,what does it reportby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I also emailed the seller of your printer and this is the response I just got. RRuser is right. ''Lally Pink: Hello , it is used Melzi board , the firmware is not Arduino, it is repetier '' The second part about not being Arduino is interesting. Did something get lost in 'translation'?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to get your nozzle a lot closer. Get it the thickness of a sheet of paper or about 0.1 mm Set your z axis at zero. You're too high to make the plastic get squeezed onto the glass.by tjnamtiw - Reprappers
Hmmm, I didn't notice any of that before I enabled the EEPROM write. I WAS having a heck of a time calibrating my extruder though................ I traced that to the drive gear binding inside of the extruder drive motor though. After I fixed that, I had no problems for a half dozen prints before I enabled the EEPROM. No answers here. Sorry.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Wow! Since this is your second Ramps board combo, the only thing left would be the power supply. It's a pretty cheap one.. Do you happen to have an old computer power supply sitting around?by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
It sure sounds like you have something miswired. Disconnect everything and then connect one thing at a time is the approach I would use. Make sure to unplug everything before removing or replacing anything. Triple check that wiring.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I just had a look at your Aliexpress machine. That control board is completely different from mine. I have no idea what it is. I have no idea if it is even running a form of Arduino firmware. One person commented that everything was on the SD card that came with it. Perhaps there's a copy of the firmware on there? I have bought quite a few things from Aliexpress and only had one major disby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
I just found out how to do this yesterday from Animoose. uncomment //#define EEPROM_SETTINGS and //#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT in the configuration.h file Just remove the // in front of both of them, reload configuration.h and you should be good to go.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Marlin and Cura are two totally different things! I think, before you plug the printer back in, you need to sit down and start reading as much of these forums and documentation as possible. Your printer should have come with Arduino software and instructions on how to load it and configure it. I could possibly just be a link to a webpage where you go to get it.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRRuser My IR thermometer does not even want to give me a number for the nozzle or bed. So I ordered a K-type thermocouple probe meter. IR thermometers give vastly different readings on black vs shiny surfaces. The better ones have a selector switch for the type of surface you're shooing but, in my experience using them at work, they are really only good at giving RELATIVE temps when shootiby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach I have this problem to, but I just import my models into rep-host and then use the mirror feature. Though, I should probably fix that before I one day start a larger print, and then realized half way through that I forgot to mirror it Yea, fix it now before the inevitable happens. It only takes a minute to update the config.h file and to move the connector to the left one space. Jby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Go to the Folger Tech site, click on the printer that you have, and on that page will be a link to all the build and configuration manuals as well as all the firmware. It's all there for you to get started if you are computer savvy. If you're not.................... Sell the printer.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
DON'T TRUST AN IR THERMOMETER! Trust the thermistor in your hotend and set it to 185. You're burning the crap out of the PLA! I also use the cheapest hairspray I could find and I use a tempered glass plate I found on Amazon. I also set my nozzle at 0.1mm but what are you using a Z offset for? That, besides the grossly overheated plastic, could be leading to poor adhesion by not putting downby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Kjet, I never got to print anything before I found the cure to the X axis moving in small steps to the left. As far as having the stop on the right, it beats me! You start with the X axis at 200 (actually 180 to miss the clamps on the glass) and it counts down. I'm sure someone had a 'good reason'. I read that Dan left Folger Tech so I believe he was the engine behind the design and the manuaby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
You don't have to move the end stop. This is from an earlier post. It is working perfectly for me. Quote Tenny Ok I got it fixed. So if you keep the cables wired as they are in the manual this will fix it: Change the following in configuration.h #define INVERT_X_DIR true to #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define X_HOME_DIR -1 to #define X_HOME_DIR 1 With the printer off PHYSICALLY move the x-aby tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks, animoose! Works like a charm.by tjnamtiw - Prusa i3 and variants