Quotemoonshine I got a piece of Sitall galss and all I can tell you is that it's a scam... PLA/ABS sticks better to glass than to this... I finally switched to PET surface on aluminium and it work the best!!!! Waste of money with Sitall.... I´m pretty sure you are not calibrating your printer in a good way. The bed has to bed setup properly, once you do that sitall glass does its job great. I´veby pabloevaristo - General
Quotekrwynn Follow this step by step and it will work. At least it did for me first try. Not sure how much you have changed in you configuration.h file so you may want to start with a fresh copy. Oh and cover the exposed pins on the LCD with Kapton or electrical tape so you dont accidently short something out. 3D printing guides - Setting up a LCD and SD card controller panel Quoteshepp I didby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi guys, I've tried the #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 This is what I get. It gets faster to the printing temperature... BUT this was only because it was showing like 8C more than the actual temperature. I've cheched with my infrared thermometer. Measuring 92C, repetier was reading 100C I'll try later to check the time more accurately.by pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
I suppose there are a lot of things involved. The position and accuracy of the thermis, the glass (I use sitall glass).... That temperature is reached only in the center of the bed. As you go to the sides the temp goes down about 4C.by pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
I've used a laser thermometer to measure de hotbed (the glass over the bed, actually). It gets to a max of 97C after like an hour of heating. But in repetier shows about 90. The thermistor is in the hole of the pcb. Folger changed me the first heat bed, but the new one still does have the same result, so the problem are mosfet or power supply. I'm using 1.02 marlin.by pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDriftyDave Quotepabloevaristo Great, I've been having issues with that thing too... Could you post some photos of the adjustment process. Thanks! First loosen the 8 nuts that attach the bed frame to the acrylic frame. Raise the extruder to 35mm and move the heated bed to about 100mm. Place the glass up against the X axis smooth rods as shown in the picture. Then use a decent square to chby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDriftyDave I finally fixed the problem I have been having with the squareness of my X & Y axis. Wow what a fight! The acrylic frame must be a bit twisted or something. In order to make the X & Y square I had to slide the right side frame bolt back like a half inch. To measure how square these two axis were I used a piece of bed glass flat across the back of the X axis smooth rodsby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekrwynn Looks like more of an extruding issue. How thick do you have your first layer? If lower than .35 try .35. Have you calibrated your extruder? I know I had to change mine from the folger recommended 90 to 97. Quotepabloevaristo Hello guys, thanks for all the info here and your responses. All are really appreciated. I'm having issues with what I think is the Y movement. As you can seeby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello guys, thanks for all the info here and your responses. All are really appreciated. I'm having issues with what I think is the Y movement. As you can see in the image attached, there are some big gaps between the fill and the edges (mostly over X axis, so I think is the Y that is not moving properly). The thing is that the steps/mm are calibrated and giving me accurate dimensions when I priby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there, a couple of things: 1.- The guys from FOlger are sending a new hot bed to me. Maybe is was you get, but I complain about the low temp (max 90C) and the time needed to reach it, (30 minutes)... 2.- I've been printing the calibration nickel you posted from thingiverse, and I've got pretty good results with the measurements. But there's 2 things that are not great and you can see in the imby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDriftyDave donkahones: Thanks for the info! Got the whole thing together today! All the motors move correctly, everything heats up and I was able to level the bed for the first, of many, times. Only issue so far is the extruder just clicks when trying to fed filament... Gonna have to search around on that one. Any advice would be appreciated. ;D maybe you are running the extruder reby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegregfuji Problems with my 'full graphic smart controller'. I've tried everything, I think I'm getting close but still not working. This is my compile error: "" Configuration.h:6:20: fatal error: U8glib.h: No such file or directory #include "U8glib.h" "" I have put this file everywhere I can think of but it still can't find it. HELP (also I have tried it with out the quotation) you don't haby pabloevaristo - Delta Machines
Quotebigfilsing Cables the right way round ?? Contrast pot adjustment on the back of the board If i remember rightly there's a contrast setting in Marlin as well somewhere but ive never had to deal with it. Might be worth verifying as well no pot in the back of my smart lcd (red pcb version ), there's only one in the front, but checked and nothing. I'll look for the contrast in Marlin. thxby pabloevaristo - Delta Machines
Quotebigfilsing Quotepabloevaristo Quotezitman Sorry for the delay in replying. Yes #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB is defined in boards.h as 33. One thing I did find though was when I tried #define MOTHERBOARD 33 it didn't work! Z Ok thanks. I've tried that too, but no result.... the smart full graphic controller is not working.... tried everything but .... blue backlightlight only...by pabloevaristo - Delta Machines
Quotezitman Sorry for the delay in replying. Yes #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB is defined in boards.h as 33. One thing I did find though was when I tried #define MOTHERBOARD 33 it didn't work! Z Ok thanks. I've tried that too, but no result.... the smart full graphic controller is not working.... tried everything but .... blue backlightlight only.... Any other suggestion??by pabloevaristo - Delta Machines
So guys, you solved this??? Because I'm trying to use the full graphic controller, but... NOTHING. Using the last Marlin, uncommenting the line, adding the U8glib library... But the LCD gives only beautiful blue light.... Any idea???..... thanksby pabloevaristo - General
Quotehathalud QuoteEcky QuoteGiven the data, the only thing that makes any sense is that I have some setting wrong in the configuration.h file... Have you tried WINMERGE to compare your file with other guys files. It gives a side by side line by line file compare display.... There is a file on page 11 of this discussion. You could also compare to the Folger file. Yes, I tried something liby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehathalud I just finished building my Folger Tech Prusa I3 rev B... I managed to briefly get the 3 axis to move a little in Ponterface, but over all it's not moving.. I also noticed that the Z axis was moving in reverse, but I saw a setting to fix that... I'm trying to use the latest Marlin firmware, but am having a bit of a hard time figuring out what settings I need to modify in the configuby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteEcky Y Axis Micro Switch Position: I have the model without the bearing supports on the bed frame, the bearing sit in holes in the acrylic frame, and I am unable to find a place for the switch to be able to touch the bearing or pretty well anything that makes sense.. How have you guys solved the problem??? Thanks hi, I have the same bed model; i attached a picture. look how I put the swby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I think it´s only more confortable, I have not very much experience by now, but I don´t have to have 8 glasses, I don´t have to use glue , ABS juice, hairspray or tape (even if it´s cheap) and the best thing is that I don´t have to level my hotbed (not auto for now) when I change glasses several times because I really don´t touch the glass nor the bed, it´s allways clean and ready. I think iby pabloevaristo - General
Received my sitall glass 2 days ago an testing it now. THe results are pretty good!. I finished building my printer 2 weeks ago, so I'm really new on this, but with the first level of the heatbed and taking in account that my bed barely gets to 95C. It's working great! For long pieces I still have the wrapping problems, but it's great to print one piece after other without doing anything with thby pabloevaristo - General
Quotezitman HI Pablo, Yes it was the motherboard setting but it did not work when I changed it to a numeric value I ended up using the following: #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB Hope that helps, Z OK, thank you very much, I'll try that, but what model of RAMPS are you using? (mine is 33, so RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)by pabloevaristo - Delta Machines
QuoteNewtoprinting Quotepabloevaristo thanks, the connections are ok. Measured 1.7 Ohms for the bed. So you're telling me that for getting 110V I'll need to change the power supply? (have you checked this kind of beds?) For the lcd, the #define are the way it's supposed, but nothing... did you install u8glib watch toms guide on how to install full graphic smart controller. Yes, I installed theby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
thanks, the connections are ok. Measured 1.7 Ohms for the bed. So you're telling me that for getting 110V I'll need to change the power supply? (have you checked this kind of beds?) For the lcd, the #define are the way it's supposed, but nothing...by pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the same problem with that LCD. So what did you change in the motherboard? Are you talking about the RAMPS model? 33, 34.... Thanksby pabloevaristo - Delta Machines
Hello, I'm new writing here and new with 3D printers. I've been checking this thread of the forum with a lot of info about the Folger's 3D, so THANKs YOU ALL. I have my printer working for 1 week. It printed decently from the first attempt so I guess I was lucky. It need a lot of improvements but... step by step. First thing, I used the lastest Marlin from github, but with the configuration.h posby pabloevaristo - Prusa i3 and variants