QuoteBobyni QuoteLuckyLoop hi all, i have a problem with my P802MA printer. I tried to upload the firmware to activate the pid-heatbed. But the printer dont started anymore. ter with windows via usb (i installed the newest fdi-driver), i see the com-port connection but i cant communicate with the printer trough simplify oder pronterface. A firmware upload via usb is impossible --> get.syncby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good to me. That is until that last picture showed up!by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
The times are pretty close. You need the calipers to measure the axis.by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesiblues Here are a couple of pics of that test print you gave me.The print isn't great and I am guessing the skirt at the bottom can be enabled or disabled in Pronterface?The print looks ok to me with some issues with the characters on the ends of the legs.Let me know what you think?I was going to use the factory settings but they had the extruder temp for PLA at 180 so I bumped it to 195 anby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesiblues Thanks a lot.I was already leaning in that direction and the only reason I even mentioned Kisslicer is because the manufacturer recommended it and I tend to try to keep things as simple as possible in the beginning.What would be some of the most common things to worry about with this printer to start off with.Does it have any design flaws that can cause a first timer like me issues?Iby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesiblues Hello, I just wanted to ask a few questions before I receive my P802NR in the mail on Friday.I am extremely new to this and I am just trying to read and gather as much information as possible.I have a few questions regarding a lot of the available slicers.The manufacturer of my machine Zonestar is recommending Kisslicer and I have downloaded it and cura and repetier just to get a feeby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMiniMfg Yes. At this point: When I hit Start print, the extruder moves all the way to the stop on the left and stays there. Then the temp starts to rise. Every time it hits 240 degrees which I think is too high I hit the emergency stop because I'm thinking it might burn out. It's my understanding the temp only need to be about 175. Am I wrong? Should I let it go and see what happens? BTW,by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMiniMfg I'm pretty sure you've heard this before. I just finished assembling a Prusa i3 M-505 and I have NO IDEA what to do now. My specific question at this point is how do I limit the movement of the extruder? When I try to anything it moves outside the bed parameters and below or actually hits, the bed. I can't get help from the sellers. They got their money and simply don't care. Any heby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGatchaman Can anyone help me with the extruder heat sink . When the heat sink is placed in position it isn't flush with extruder. The two bolts that hold the extruder stepper in place stick out by ~1mm so the heat sink doesn't actually touch anything. So I'm left with a ~1mm gap between the metal block and the heat sink. I'm trying to dremel a space for the bolt heads to fit into so the hby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like a good idea Gatchaman.by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterobmilr I have the Tronxy variant of this printer, and have added a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX capacitive proximity sensor to do autoleveling. I found that sometimes the sensor failed to detect the 3mm aluminum build plate, and also that the sensor seems to detect components in the bed heater through the build plate (so this will look like bumps to the firmware). To solve this problem, I bought some sby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Remove G32 or G29 from the start script and that will disable bed leveling with out changing firmware.by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
I can not help with the repair of the board but you can buy a new board here Hope this helps Gerryby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 Quoteglimpse79 Quotegwc2795 Quoteglimpse79 Quotegwc2795 Quoteglimpse79 Quotegwc2795 Quoteglimpse79 In these days i had big trouble with my zonestar prusa, prints suddenly hangs after a variable number of hours (1 to 4), the problem happens either using serial and SD card. I thought it was caused by too much ambient heat but it happens even at night; any ideas? Thanks in advanceby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 Quotegwc2795 Quoteglimpse79 Quotegwc2795 Quoteglimpse79 In these days i had big trouble with my zonestar prusa, prints suddenly hangs after a variable number of hours (1 to 4), the problem happens either using serial and SD card. I thought it was caused by too much ambient heat but it happens even at night; any ideas? Thanks in advance I need more information. Does it finish parby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 Quotegwc2795 Quoteglimpse79 In these days i had big trouble with my zonestar prusa, prints suddenly hangs after a variable number of hours (1 to 4), the problem happens either using serial and SD card. I thought it was caused by too much ambient heat but it happens even at night; any ideas? Thanks in advance I need more information. Does it finish part of the print with the prinby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 In these days i had big trouble with my zonestar prusa, prints suddenly hangs after a variable number of hours (1 to 4), the problem happens either using serial and SD card. I thought it was caused by too much ambient heat but it happens even at night; any ideas? Thanks in advance I need more information. Does it finish part of the print with the print head finishing above the pby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
The marlin code in has the 5-button keypad integrated. ViPeRT what sensor are you referring to?by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you reset the little pins at the bottom of the board?by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
People have used both 0.91 and 0.92 Repetier firmware for auto leveling.by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the info. I posted this because this is the latest being used by zonestar for their P802MA printer. I don't doubt you are correct; but for someone that wants the firmware shipped with the printers from the factory this is it. Gerryby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
I have added the latest version of Marlin firmware to the . It is a zip file located in the firmware > marlin folder This is the latest version that supports 5 button display, SD card and auto leveling on the P802MA enjoyby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejnsbanman Hello again all.. I am getting slightly out of round holes on the Z axis. I have done the Z axis upgrade to 1 stepper/belt on my printer. The pulleys on the motor and 2 lead screws are all the same number of teeth, belt is reasonable tight. My steps per mm is set to 400 as per all the calculators. I have my Z offset at 0 but i set the nozzle to approximately 0.127mm above the bed.by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedsol trying to burn 0.92 firmware and get this.. what to do ??? thanks ! got this printer... Use Arduino 1.0.5-r2 to compile it.by gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteErikL I haven't touched my printer' firmware yet but I'm planning on implementing auto bed leveling, so I will have to flash the firmware with the latest repetier firmware 0.92.x. Has anyone already done that and can point me to soms relevant information and/or tips? I guess I can, somehow, read the current configuration for the current firmware and use that configuration for compiling theby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteScottjar QuoteGatchaman QuoteScottjar Quotemadias Scott: Does the printer works offline? If everything went wrong you can remove the board out of the printer and try a direct connection via a short USB cable without ANY peripheries connected. You should see it in your device manager. If not (or no LED flickering) the board (or some parts of it) is dead. EDIT: Another reason could be a brickeby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias Scott: Does the printer works offline? If everything went wrong you can remove the board out of the printer and try a direct connection via a short USB cable without ANY peripheries connected. You should see it in your device manager. If not (or no LED flickering) the board (or some parts of it) is dead. EDIT: Another reason could be a bricked FTDI. Google for it. As I can remember thby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteScottjar I've also had the same issue with 3d star on the melzi board. They've sent the firmware but the instructions are terrible. Read the reprap and repetier sites as you need to use the correct arduino IDE and board info to load it. If you can I've logged a dispute as I can't re-flash the board. Any help would be good for me I really don't want to have to buy another board Any ideas onby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoutwoot Something different, have any of you managed to print ABS without it warping? I can only get my bed to go to about 92 max, while the recommended bed temp for ABS is 110. Every time I print in ABS I start to see warping after a few layers. PLA works fine. I've tried hairspray and tape as adhesive, both without success. Any tips for printing ABS on this printer? Check the output vby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants
AccidentalWisdom Ports (COM & LPT) USB Serial Port (COM3) This is how it shows now, after we got the driver to seemingly install "successfully." Before that, it showed with the "!" icon as follows: Make sure the baud rate is set to 115200 for successful communicationby gwc2795 - Prusa i3 and variants