I finally got around to posting the design of the Proximity Probe holder on Thingiverse. Here's the link: The probe works great. Much better and much more consistent than checking the alignment by hand.by 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
It may be that you can't read or set the fuses through the USB connection. Perhaps someone else can confirm? It may require a programmer. This is the one that I got It was $13. The fuses can't all be 0. Here's a webpage that describes the settings in extreme detail:by 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry you're having trouble. I'm not sure that I can help much, but I can give you some things to try. Both AVRDUDE and Arduino (which I think uses AVRDUDE or something like it) are very poor at letting you know if they have a connection to the ATMega or not. They'll go through the motions even if there is no connection at all, and give you a sync error at the end. I found that the easiest waby 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm adding auto leveling. I'm using a LJ18A3-8-Z-BX-8mm-Approach-Sensor-Inductive-Proximity-NPN-NO-Switch I got at: I used the bigger switch since I have a piece of borosilicate glass on top of the aluminum heating bed. The switch is too close to the glass when triggered by the aluminum, so I put a thin piece of copper sheet under the glass. The switch now trips about 1/8" above the glassby 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
I found the problem. Here's a summary of what I learned, in hope that you don't spend as much time spinning your wheels as I did. I had a SD card in the slot. REMOVE THE CARD!!! Once I pulled it out, all the programming verify errors went away! That only consumed about 15 hours to figure out. I got a US-made USBasp programmer, but I don't think that was the problem. It did eliminate the sckby 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
I've done some more work on this. I noticed that when I read the device signature, I was getting one of the bits incorrect. I could unplug the USBASP, and then it would read correctly. I did the same thing for the Fuses. Again, they'd be unavailable, then after unplugging and plugging, I could read them. It's almost as something is causing the USB connection to die. I noticed that when I unby 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a Tronxy P802M. I've been trying to update the firmware. I bought a USBASP V2.0 programmer off eBay, plus a 10 to 6 pin adapter. I ran this command on AVRDUDE to make a copy of the existing code: avrdude -p m1284p -P usb -c usbasp -U flash:r:TronxyP802M.bin:r That seemed to work fine. I can look at the generated file with a text editor, and it seems to be there - I can see some ofby 10k - Prusa i3 and variants
Success! Thanks for all the suggestions. The one that sounded the most promising was the one about trying another slicer. I got the Cura slicer configured for ABS and made another print. This is using the same roll of ABS as before. All of the bumpy stuff went away! See attached. So the problem was the algorithm in slic3r. Incidentally, I had this bumpy problem on an earlier print I madeby 10k - Printing
I've just started having a problem with bumpy prints on my Prusa i3 clone. I've been using more or less the defaults in Slic3r to print. I've moved the print temperature around a bit, but this does not seem to be the problem. The attached picture shows two printouts. The red one is PLA, and the white one is ABS. Both exhibit the bumpy texture. I see the bumps on all four sides, so I don't tby 10k - Printing