MindRealm: Overall I like what you did with the printer. Nice clean wiring setup. But and there is always a but looking at picture "i3%20coupler%2001.jpg" it shows that you have the X carriage end pieces on upside down. If the nuts work loose the carriage could drop down or worse yet make the Z height inconsistant causing bad prints for no apparent reason.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone get the Full Graphic Controller and display LCD to work with the Prusa machine? If you did are you willing to share your config...h file and your pins.h file.??? TIAby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWhen you have multiple problems with a kit,it's a bad deal, whatever the price. But a heck of a learning experience.by Ecky - Reprappers
QuoteYep, it's not hard to beat Folger's I3 kit At the same price??????by Ecky - Reprappers
BillyGeorge: Thanks for the update.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I had the same problem on 2 rods and I measured them and they were .0005 inches(.0125 mm) bigger in diameter than the smooth rolling ones. I had spare smaller rods from a frame kit I have and substituted them and everything is fine now. I will be sanding mine as well but using 600 grit sand paper with a polishing with rough or 1200 grit.by Ecky - Reprappers
QuoteBillygeorge I finally have been printing for about 1 week now. No enclosure,bed is at 121 although it doesn't really go past 90,extruder is at 230. flawless prints. making parts for improvements. You must keep the extruder clean.......Everything..amd I mean mostly everything the folger guys had on there build file were wrong. I had to pick my brain alot. Would you care to share your good fiby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I can't find any metric hardware in the regular stores either and I live in Canada, a metric country. The rest of the world has gone metric even the people that invented the Imperial system. I guess we need to face facts and also go down that road one day. Till then it is a struggle to find what we need to support our hobby.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello All: I would like to know how you installed the couplings on the motors and the Z threaded rods into the couplings. The install I see in the instruction has the motor shafts going up almost all of the length of the coupling and I feel this compromises the coupling. So I installed the coupling so the motor shaft only goes into the solid part of the coupling. But then I installed the threby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't trust an IR gun to give you an accurate reading on aluminum. This is second hand knowledge and I can't authoritatively say more.by Ecky - Reprappers
Zavashier: Those people that buy these machines with the hope of making precision parts quickly will be disappointed but with work like yours, Zavashier, the machine can be improved. But it will never be a precision machine nor was it intended to be. Want precision and speed, find yourself 50K$+ and you can buy what you want. Some buy it as a hobby or pass time activity and they will get aby Ecky - Reprappers
Elwood: Those are not the standard threaded rods. What have you got there? Have a great day. Eckhardby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehathalud but trying to go down it, it struggles.... At one point the right side even slipped off the nut it was riding. One thing I noticed is that the Z axis rods seem quite bent as I can see the couplers to the motor deflecting when the motor turns. I suggest that you straighten them to reduce the load on the drive system. Eckhardby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Have you tried resetting the mega and the ramps unit? There was a post on crazy behavior that said it was cured this way.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGiven the data, the only thing that makes any sense is that I have some setting wrong in the configuration.h file... Have you tried WINMERGE to compare your file with other guys files. It gives a side by side line by line file compare display.... There is a file on page 11 of this discussion. You could also compare to the Folger file.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotepabloevaristo hi, I have the same bed model; i attached a picture. look how I put the switch. I hope it helps Wish I would've seen this when I was building my kit, awesome! I got an email from Dan at Folger Tech and he says to put so it touches the bed. This is the text of the email: QuoteMost of us attach the clip on the back threaded rod that sticks out a bit fby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAt one point the right side even slipped off the nut it was riding. It sounds like the Z axis is really tight and the motor is pulling the nut out of the bracket. Does it come down under it's own weight if you take the threaded rod out? Ideally it should. I found that the X axis on my printer is really "catchy"/ notchy when I try to move it and I think it may give me some grief when I tby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepabloevaristo hi, I have the same bed model; i attached a picture. look how I put the switch. I hope it helps Thanks for the picture. It looks like the microswitch is activated by the knob on the bed levelling. Eckhardby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Y Axis Micro Switch Position: I have the model without the bearing supports on the bed frame, the bearing sit in holes in the acrylic frame, and I am unable to find a place for the switch to be able to touch the bearing or pretty well anything that makes sense.. How have you guys solved the problem??? Thanksby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
ok Thanks for the quick answer. I am not able to zip tie the ends of Y axis belt together. No room for the zip tie. Anyone had any luck here.??by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Did any of you file a flat onto the motor shaft to serve as a setscrew seat????by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I agree with Zav as well. So much so that I ordered the bearings last night. I believe that that little tensioning spring goes some way to making the pulley sustem work. Without it the belt would be changing tension along the way. Can anyone point me to where I could find a CAD model or something like that of this printer or at least the pulley system?by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
From what I have read slow hot bed heating is usually improper connections to the heater. One wire should be on pad #1 and the other should bridge pads 2 & 3 . Check the Folger build manual, ver 1.1, Step 35, page 50, for a picture of the wiring. Controller problem. Check this URL I just looked up the config.h file on page 11 and it reads: // ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your Aby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier I wondered why there were a noticeable difference between X and Z dimentions to my prints. Do you have a number you could put to these noticable differences? Thanks.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi: I my name is Eckhard and I am a noob at this 3D printer game. I just wanted to check in and let you know how the build is going. I noticed that the rods for the were visibly bent. Of the 4 rods I have checked the worst was one of the y axis rods that was +/- 0.25mm(0.010 inches) off. It would have made it impossible to get an even thickness of material deposited. I made a setup with a sby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants