Quotesonnylowe QuoteBert3D Has anyone tried using one of these aluminum heated build plates with a prox sensor and glass? I've got a BLTouch on order, but if it doesn't work out, I'm wondering if this would work? In theory, if the BLTouch is accurate as they claim, it should be better, because it is measuring the distance to the glass surface. Even if the glass is uneven or not sitting flatby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone tried using one of these aluminum heated build plates with a prox sensor and glass? I've got a BLTouch on order, but if it doesn't work out, I'm wondering if this would work? In theory, if the BLTouch is accurate as they claim, it should be better, because it is measuring the distance to the glass surface. Even if the glass is uneven or not sitting flat on the bed, the auto levelby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 QuoteBert3D QuoteUltiFix I can get a duplicator I3 for 350, thats tempting, then I can use that printer to print parts for an old prusa 2 a friend gave me. I'm not so sure the quality of the Monoprice copy will be as good as the real Wanhao Duplicator I3. A real Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 is only $399 directly from them. Monoprice quality is good, and they have good warranty too. Iby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix I can get a duplicator I3 for 350, thats tempting, then I can use that printer to print parts for an old prusa 2 a friend gave me. I'm not so sure the quality of the Monoprice copy will be as good as the real Wanhao Duplicator I3. A real Wanhao Duplicator I3 V2 is only $399 directly from them.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenightpanda2810 Just realized I may need to order some additional stuff... Is any solder/kapton tape included in the kit for those sections that need it? Some kapton tape is included. You need to supply your on solder and soldering equipment, though.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
I picked up a good digital caliper on sale at my local harbor freight long before getting the printer, and it works well enough that I got another 6-inch version just to keep with the printer. The temp gun is a fun thing to have, and I have a Ryobi one from Home Depot (again, long before getting the 3d printer), but it isn't really necessary. I've never used mine for the printer. A good set ofby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix How much different than the oiginal Prusia I3 is this printer? The main thing is the much more rigid aluminum frame, motors at the top, and a lot fewer 3d printed parts. The original Prusa i3 uses a flat piece of acrylic or wood as the vertical portion, with rods bolted into the bottom to hold the Y axis setup, which form the entirety of the frame. The acrylic is subject to deformby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotechking It seems like all discussion on this topic ended 6 months ago. Any reason why? I just ordered a Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 Full Aluminum 3D Printer. Is there another forum that is more up-to-date? This is one of the most active topics on the forum, with over 105 pages of posts. Not sure why you aren't seeing the later posts. Did you check the other pages using the page conby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterollinns Quoterollinns Thanks for all the help on this, I haven't been on for a while. My printer was running fine, then a few parts went bad, and I got it working again. Now I have a few issues. I upgraded to theRippa's Marlin (1.1.0 RC3), I was running the stock FT marlin, but I installed a sensor for auto bed level, so I upgraded to theRippa's Marlin and that's what I need to solve.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe I took a quick look at the OP site, THIS is a basic example of how you could run the drive system on the Y-Carriage. I think you could basically use the old FT belt, stepper and idler pulley mounts and make it work. I'll try to model something in the few days, see what it looks like. The only possible issue I see would be running the belt off center, although I wouldn't suggest itby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebstern So I'm on step 26 of the Folger Guide (Attach Wire Extension to Extruder Fan and Wire it to the Power Supply), and it just seems sort of weird to me to wire the fan so that it is always on. Is this what you guys have done? You want the extruder cooling fan to run all the time. It keeps the filament from melting higher up in the throat and jamming the extruder. If you add a filamenby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Here is a picture from the back and of the holes I drilled into the folgertech bed plate (and you get to see the sassy towel I use when working on the printer so I don't scratch the kitchen table): The new endstop works well (if someone is going to build the y-axis, let me know and I'll give you the STL). Whatever length I eyeballed the piece to be cut at worked out perfectly.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D Ok, I give up. Tonight I installed an autolevel Z probe and when I issue a G29 it just goes the the front left and probes the same spot several times. Never moves. Also does not go to center to z probe on a G28. Further it doesn't raise the head by the amount I set in the config between probes. And yes, I did move my X endstop to the left and set it to min in both firmware and whby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok, I give up. Tonight I installed an autolevel Z probe and when I issue a G29 it just goes the the front left and probes the same spot several times. Never moves. Also does not go to center to z probe on a G28. Further it doesn't raise the head by the amount I set in the config between probes. And yes, I did move my X endstop to the left and set it to min in both firmware and where it plugsby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe With my printer down awaiting hardware to arrive (to complete yet another verison of my X Carriage upgrade) I've moved my thoughts elsewhere...wire management is one. I've relocated the Arduino/Ramps Board (enclosure is in mind) and started looming and rerouting all the wiring. I hope to have that done tonight. I have also moved to the hotter side of things, yup, the Hotend. I amby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
I do have a cad background, and still haven't been able to make myself like working in FreeCAD. It is just so clumsy to use. My favorite free tools are OnShape, Autodesk Fusion 360, and DesignSpark Mechanical. Honestly, for quick and easy, DesignSpark is certainly good enough, and probably has a quicker-to-use interface. As an experiment, I designed the same, simple box for a circuit, in eachby Bert3D - 3D Design tools
QuoteBryg63 My extruder was running the wrong direction on initial start up. I changed the E0 to true from false in config.h to fix that problem as opposed to turning the cables around. Hope that helps... #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false #define INVERT_Z_DIR true // forby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus What belt tensioner do you use on your printer? I was going to start printing this one: Prusa i3 X Belt Tensioner I'm using this one:by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Is that meant to go on the right side? (I figure it should be easy to mirror to mount it on the left...) As uploaded it mounts on the right, but you can mirror it in your slicer if you want to mount it on the left. It should work fine either way. I don't mount it on the left, because I have the X-axis belt tensioner mounted over there.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, this is the X endstop I'm using at the moment. It works better than any of the others I've tried. It can't be bumped around, and the X carriage can't hit the bracket before the motor trips the switch. I will probably tweak it a bit at some point. When I offset the sensor mount further left, to allow access to the lower mounting hole without removing the sensor board, I lost a few mm ofby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
For now, I'm using this one: I put it together from a similar one by psbox. I went that route for the same reason you mention - I didn't want to take anything else apart right now. I've also seen one that mounts on the rod base, and x motor mount, but it looked more awkward and inconvenient to adjust. I think this is that one: I'll try to take some photos tonight.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDavewerld Is anyone else seeing issues with the crimp connections in the harnesses? I had one wire in the endstop harness that was crimped onto an unstripped wire, how it occassionally made contact is a mystery to me. Dave I just posted a page or two back about the same issue. I didn't have a lot of bad connectors, probably because I cut most of the harnesses to the appropriate length, andby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anybody tried using an active cooling fan on the folger 2020 i3? I didn't see any designs for one on Thingiverse, except the ones that divert air from the extruder fan. I don't want to switch that off when printing ABS, and don't want the fan blowing on the ABS. Is active cooling of much benefit? If you're just using the diverter fan, how is it affecting your ABS prints? I had no luck aby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Just a heads up. I had one of my Z motors working intermittently and skipping, etc., all after things have been fine for weeks. It was the one on the left. Switched the z plugs on the ramps, and the problem remained on the left, so I assumed it was the stepper motor. It wasn't. Turns out the green wire was crimped badly on the ramps end, and making an intermittent connection. After taking tby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach So, I am trying to setup a full graphic lcd controller, but I cannot get the screen to show anything other than the blue backlight. I have downloaded and included the u8glib library in config.h, uncommented #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER, #define ULTRA_LCD, #define DOGLCD, and #define SDSUPPORT. The contrast pot is set to a proper amount and I am using the latby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDavewerld Hi, Downloading that firmware didn't change the behavior. So I want to try moving the Xstop connector over, but that opens a new batch of questions. If I look in pins.h, I think we have Gen7 v 1.4 pin assignment, which says X_STOP_PIN 0, is that what I would change and to what, because Y_STOP_PIN is already 1 and Z_STOP_PIN is 2. Of course, none of that seems to match the RAMPS 1.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] New adjustable Z-endstop. I have set the extruder now I just have to adjust the Z steps it's way off!! Got a link to the STL for that endstop?by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
So I upgraded to the latest marlin code posted earlier in this topic, and now by bed won't go much above 85 or 90 degrees, and takes much longer than before. Has anyone fixed this? What's the trick? Also, is the throat on the extruder a 26mm or a 30mm?by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
That was exactly it. Found a loose ball of solder floating around on the back of the ramps. Just plugging and unplugging cables was enough to shift it somewhere it shouldn't be. Reflowed all the solder points that looked suspect, and now it works fine.by Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok, my printer has been working fine for over a week, and now suddenly the Z axis will only go up. It is not inverted. When you send a command to go down, it goes up. When you send the command to go up, it goes up. I rebooted everything, multiple times, reflashed the arduino, checked connections. Tried it from the LCD and from manual control inside Repetier. What can cause this? Bad RAMPSby Bert3D - Prusa i3 and variants