Quotemarc2912 Quotejhitesma Does anyone know the size of Teflon/PTFE that's used for the liner in the threaded tube of the extruder? I keep having filament stick in mine so while cleaning the other day I gently pushed the teflon tube out so I could take a torch to the tube to clean PLA out of the threads without melting the PTFE. But when it came out it was obvious why I'm having some issues.by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotejhitesma Tried printing with PETG again tonight for the first time since swapping to the metal extruder. Not going so well. About 15 minutes into the print my extruder stepper starts clunking and it acts like it's clogged. But I think it's actually the stepper motor overheating. Checked it and it was over 60c. I've never seen it over 45 before and usually it's closer to 37-by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone know the size of Teflon/PTFE that's used for the liner in the threaded tube of the extruder? I keep having filament stick in mine so while cleaning the other day I gently pushed the teflon tube out so I could take a torch to the tube to clean PLA out of the threads without melting the PTFE. But when it came out it was obvious why I'm having some issues. There was a kink in the middby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Tried printing with PETG again tonight for the first time since swapping to the metal extruder. Not going so well. About 15 minutes into the print my extruder stepper starts clunking and it acts like it's clogged. But I think it's actually the stepper motor overheating. Checked it and it was over 60c. I've never seen it over 45 before and usually it's closer to 37-40. I'm thinking the higheby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix I am using autolevel as of saterday, do these look like a decen't upgrade set? That's the set I'm using and am very happy with. I ordered them 3 days after Folger shipped me my printer and even though they came from China and I was too cheap to upgrade my shipping I got them just a few days after my printer arrived. Gives you time to print the new X axis end pieces while waitingby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Is their anything wrong with the stock z axis lead screws? You mean the stock threaded rods? They work. But they're not ideal. Basically threaded rod and nuts are designed to hold things together, so the threads are cut in a way that encourages binding. They're basically designed for the opposite of what we use them for. They work but they aren't the smoothest, they can wearby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Did you catch this at: ? "Warning: This carrier board uses low-ESR ceramic capacitors, which makes it susceptible to destructive LC voltage spikes, especially when using power leads longer than a few inches. Under the right conditions, these spikes can exceed the 45 V maximum voltage rating for the DRV8825 and permanently damage the board, even when the motor supply voltage is asby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGrouchoDuke Quotejhitesma wear on the extruder is really hard to see, I really questioned if it was the problem or not. It was acting like a clogged nozzle, but not chewing up the filament so I figured it had to be the tension - or lack thereof. I went through severe under extruding this weekend. My printer is about the same age as yours. Grrrr. Mine looked to be caused by a worn drive geaby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I have several rolls of ESun filament PLA and haven't had any problems. Most of my stuff is Hatchbox with a couple of Inland and Sainsmart. All are running well. After running, I snip off my roll and put it into my dry box. I didn't use to do that before my red turned into Pringles! Now nothing sits out. This gets brittle before my heated bed cools. It doesn't even feel warmby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw First, Happy Birthday! I'll have to keep an eye out for the wear pattern on the extruder. Maybe go ahead and order that metal replacement. Right hand drive, correct? I guess the left hand drive is for the Brits...... hahaha. Been there and done that! Scared a bunch of Brits too! Learned a few new words! Thanks, was actually a rather frustrating and annoying birthday...but iby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarc2912 Quotewefriend94 Hey guys! I just finished building this printer about a week ago and I have to say I'm impressed! I have just been running into a pretty consistent issue. Every time I print it seems that about half way up the print, the entire print shifts to the left about a mm. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Also, seen clearly in the boat pictures, the layers that doby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejohn-i Interesting.. can you share what you ordered from ebay? Sure, this is the one I used: I picked that one because it was the cheapest available from the physically closest seller (I hate waiting on shipping!) but there are tons of sellers with the same thing at similar prices. You'll also need a single M6 nut to go with it to to attach the stock hot end. My DRV9925's arrived thiby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw On another topic, I was thinking more about die swell and the discussion I had with jhitesma about it as he successfully enlightened me about 'extrusion multiplier'. I raised my Z offset from the normal -3.3 mm to -2.7 mm so that my first pass would just lay down on the bed and not be squished as it normally would. At 40 mm/sec print speed, the extrudate after cooling measured 0.4by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Im wondering why I need to move my X axis endstop to the left for auto level? I upgraded to therippas firmware and it works fine on the right. After I upgraded my extruder got reversed, so I switched the motor plug. Because autolevel only knows how to calculate the plane of the bed when referencing from the front left as 0,0 If you're not using autolevel yet then therippas will worby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
It is the BX/NPN that I have, I don't have the link to it anymore but I made sure to get the NPN because I'd read the same threads and didn't want to bother with soldering up a resistor ladder to drop the voltage. But, I also don't trust much of anything anyone if I can test it for myself. So before connecting it I hooked my volt meter between the signal wire and ground and triggered the sensorby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethebabymaker I use this same sensor (LJ18A3-8-Z/BX DC 6-36V NPN 3-wire 8mm Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Detector) and did not need to use a voltage divider. I have it plugged into my 12V power supply with my extruder fan and LEDs (as you have done), signal and ground into Z-stop input. From what I have been told, NPN sensors do not need a voltage divider - and it works as intended forby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
So I had an interesting failure last night. Had an event at my daughters school tonight so didn't get to print until around 7:30. Got home and immediately went to start a print of one of the MPCNC parts I'm working on. But noticed the filament looked "Wrong". Sure enough this eSun PLA had snapped again right at the top of my extruder I even stayed up an extra 30 minutes last night to let it fulby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw There's been a lot of discussion on this forum about alternate controllers from Arduino to Raspberry Pi to CHIP. Just to clarify, Pi or CHIP don't replace the ramps board. Basically they act as a dedicated computer for the printer so it's more like printing while tethered over USB - but since it's a dedicated computer not doing anything else it's less likely to do something thatby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Results of some experiments I did on the extrusion multiplier: Interesting to see your take on it, your blog and results played a large roll in me getting this printer and the upgrade paths I've chosen This is some interesting reading I meant to link into my novel length post but forgot to include: It addresses the question you raised in your blog post about why the wall thickby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Pretty happy with this: Didn't even have to chase the bolt holes for things to fit - snug but not too snug to get a bolt through with gentle pushing. My overhangs still need some fine tuning but the zits and pits are finally gone. All that's left is what I'm pretty sure is some ringing from the cheap bearings which I'm not going to worry about tuning out. And the parts are printing almost tby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I printed two single wall _40x10 test pieces and saw that 0.9 extrusion multiplier brought it down to a wall of 0.48 mm. I'm printing the pin test piece right now. Did you manually set the extrusion width to 0.48? I wouldn't worry about the comments if you're setting it manually. Quote I don't see any comments in my code but I just discovered that I have 'verbose gcode' turnby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebmays I absolutely love PLA since it prints great for me. I agree, the FT ABS I got is a bit of a PITA to use. I bought some wood filament that I'm pretty stoked to try but I'm not certain this stock MK9 setup will do it justice. @jhitesma, Why do you no longer have your marlin firmware listed in your signature? Your files are the only reason my auto level is working like a champ now I'by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I want to do the single wall test today. I sliced it with Reptier and Cura and I examined the G Code, but it doesn't say what it expects the thickness to be. Is it always the 0.67 mm that the video shows? ((NOTE: of course it won't be since they are using 3.0 mm filament!)) I'll also try my idea of raising the head slightly and laying down the outer start-up loop to see if it'sby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Now That was some very interesting reading and you got ME to thinking and rethinking my methods! For measuring that extruded width, I'd slice something simple and put one line around it for starting. Then I'd raise my zero point up about 1 mm (I have BLTOUCH auto bed leveling) in the config.h file. Then I'd start the printing and stop it after it had laid down that outer line. Bby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I'm an engineer and take one step at a time, concerning your remark about 'broadening my horizons'. Rather than going helter skelter from one type of plastic to the next, I'd rather have fun and learn about one at a time and make one change at a time. When it's time, I'll probably jump right to PETG and avoid ABS and all its problems. I grew up in a house where my dad complainby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quoteihaveworms What kind of extrusion multiplier are you all using? I am using 0.7 right now that seems really low, almost like I am doing something wrong. Why would you use 0.7 extrusion multiplier?? It's there to make SMALL adjustments if your filament is not exactly 1.75 mm diameter. Using 0.7 is hiding a problem if your making good parts. That problem is that you need to caby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Well, I have been printing like crazy and been having a ton of fun! Here are some pics... Planning to attach a 40mm fan to the extruder once it arrives. Oh yeah, how are you guys attaching the glass to the bed? I have ran my hotend into those stupid black clamps. Hey neat, that's the first one of my inductive sensor mounts I've seen printed other than the ones I made Thanks so muby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
So I'm really very happy with my printer over all. I'm getting far more accurate and repeatable prints than I expected to get from something twice this price. But. There's one fairly major issue I'm still regularly experiencing that I can't figure out. Overhangs towards the back of my printbed never come out well. Like if I print a 3D Benchy with the front of the boat to my right, then theby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGrouchoDuke Quotewidespreaddeadhead Get a print fan on that. It'll make all the difference for PLA. I've been meaning to add a fan for similar issues. What's the best print fan for the stock FT setup? Adding a print fan made a huge difference in my bridging/overhangs and PLA. Still not quite there with ABS (where the fan doesn't help) and still having horrible issues with PETG but gettingby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D What do you guys with proximity detection z-probes get when you do an M48? That's the Marlin Z-probe repeatability test. I'd be real in interested in seeing results for capacitive and inductive probe types. Anyone have one of the 8mm distance inductive probes? How much less accurate are they? I use this: M48 P5 V4 I've been meaning to try that...I'm running a 8mm sense distaby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants