QuoteUltiFix I have a 12mm proximity sensor coming, how do you reccomend I mount it to the stock folgertech 2020 extruder? I looked on thingiverse and didn't find anything for the folger tech... I'm partial to this one I designed: It's based off another I found for the folger combined with a print cooling fan mount I use. I have both a 12mm and a 18mm version uploaded now. The 18mm versionby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Have you thought about using a capacitive sensor so it will work with glass? The same reasons I love capacitive sensors for touch screens...I'm not big on them for this. Too sensitive. I'm sure they're a lot better than the last time I messed with a capacitive sense circuit, but it would be affected by weather and humidity greatly. I'm liking the inductive. Just was surprisedby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy QuoteUltiFix Im wondering how much you guys like autolevel? And whats the easiest way to do it? With my Prusa i3's I've never needed it. Honestly I think it shouldn't be needed if you have a properly built chassis and a flat heated bed. Why would you want the z-axis motors moving while printing a layer? Only to compensate for an uneven build. With a delta style printer I can seeby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotesonnylowe You want therippa's version of Marlin (it's in his sig or the Wikia page), it is already RC3. The talk about merging RC2/RC3 was between a few select people. You will most likely still need to merge your current version of marlin with RC3 as there are a few setting that will need to translate over (E-Steps, PID if you ran autotune, Etc.). The firmware in my sig isn'by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa Quotetjnamtiw Quotesonnylowe Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll merge my current RC2 into RC3 and see what happens EDIT: Just merged RC2 into RC3, all went well...I was printing again in less than ten minutes Might I be missing something? When you say 'merge' the current RC2 into RC3, is there a magic way of doing this besides opening the two upby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix I have the printer coming, and once I get the printer up and running i will move my endstop to the left (With an upgraded adapter), but currently I have no idea where to put the endstop on the right. I never even bothered to put it on the right. I did have a few issues at first getting Marlin re-configured correctly (I wound up with it printing mirrored in the X axis the first dayby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
The endbump caught me off guard after upgrading to 1.1.0-RC3 as well. But I've gotten used to it. Enabling QUICK_HOME was a bigger difference and one I'm really enjoying. I love the sound it makes as it homes X and Y simultaneously - almost like a little jet engine spooling up Also, for anyone who checked out the link I shared for 1.1.0-RC3 configured for our setup Boffster noticed two thinby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe As far as cost, the Inductive Sensor and BLtouch cost about the same if you buy an aluminum build plate. If you can find the Capacitive Sensor I suggested earlier it can be as little as $15.00 with no need to buy any other build plate material. IF you buy an aluminum build plate. But it's not necessary. I'm running an inductive sensor and printing on glass by putting a thin (28gby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
There is a BOM on the hardware bag. But...it doesn't really matter. I got all excited when I inventoried mine and found that not only did I have everything on the bag I had 2-3 extras of everything! Then on the first step I ran into a minor stumbling block when the instructions called for a screw size that wasn't listed on the BOM! Thankfully it was easily solved, there was only one size of 5by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix But what if I can get the duplicator i3 for 350? WIth free shipping? A folgertech with shipping is nearly $300 with no micro sd card reader or display, and the duplicator has better frame and a year warranty I ordered my 2020 i3 direct from Folger with the "2004 LCD" and an inductive sensor and a roll of PLA and a roll of ABS. Grand total with shipping was just under $330. Theby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa I think you just make a link to a page that doesn't exist (red link), and when you click on it, it will give you an choice to create a new page. Sounds about right, that's how it generally works on wiki's. I'm not sure if we want to make an intro page for the homepage and link to the current page, or move what's on the current page to the homepage and break more stuff off to sub-pby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D Some kapton tape is included. You need to supply your on solder and soldering equipment, though. Worth noting as it caught me off guard. The included Kapton tape is only 1/4" or so wide. It's not suitable for say, covering your print bed and printing on. It's good for things like holding in a replacement hot end thermister that doesn't have a brass collar since the Kapton can hanby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterollinns jhitesma: Thanks for putting up the Wiki. I couldn't figure out how to make a sub-topic a separate page, it that easy to do on Wikia? I think the auto-bed leveling and some of the Advanced Upgrades are great candidates for having their own pages. Actually that was therippa who setup the wiki, I just added some of the issues I've heard repeated and ran into myself building mine.by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Didn't end up having time to add anything else on the wiki last night. Had prints stop sticking and rather than be sensible and clean my glass I started dinking with my inductive sensor and all heck broke loose Finally got the sensor back at the right height and my firmware setting dialed in again and by then was too tired to work on any kind of writeup. Anyway looking at the wiki I noticed tby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa I started the wikia page - Please go enter info for what you know! Not a big fan of wikia...but beats doing nothing I started adding some build tips but then realized I wasn't logged in. Will try and add some more later tonight when I have more time.by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepeeejayz Anyone got a recommended inductive sensor, Mine just arrived and its to big to fit into any of the brackets I've printed. I got the 8mm sensing one. I'm using the 4mm sense distance one from folger which is 12mm but am thinking about upgrading to an 8mm as it makes me nervous how close it has to be. (I'm using a sheet of 28ga galvanized steel between the glass and heater - had toby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
I've had warping on my ABS parts...but the odd thing is it's not happening on the print bed or while they're cooling. It's happening like a day after I print them. I did my stepper standoffs in ABS and they came out great, stuck to the bed no problem. After the bed cooled the popped right off and were perfectly flat on the bottom. A few hours later I checked them again and they were still perby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
I printed all of my upgrade parts (swapped to leadscrews and did the motor risers) in ABS and didn't use an enclosure. Not a big fan of ABS or PLA honestly. I live in the desert and PLA deforms at ambient temps in the summer ABS is strong...but the smell when printing gets to me. I'm really liking PETG - strength of ABS but sticks to the bed easier like PLA. Still smells a little like ABS bby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
I got those in mine too...didn't use them anywhere and it's working fine They are kind of handy for things like adding print cooling fans...if not a little long bit a dremel can take care of that.by jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
My X is much quieter now. Instead of just going by the numbers to adjust the current on the steppers I gave in and did it by feel. Just kept turning down the current and doing test moves to make sure things were still responding correctly. The X driver is now showing about 0.23v and the stepper is about 5c cooler...and there's no more annoying noise. Also turned down Y the same way and the swby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally got pushed into fixing my mirrored X axis yesterday. Tried printing a new X axis endstop (the stock one is driving me crazy because it keeps falling and then doesn't trigger because the extruder cold break hits the mount before the switch hits anything.) and it came out great...but the slot for the endstop is on the wrong side due to the mirroring So I decided to finally dig in on fixiby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the extruder clearing tips guys. I actually got that clog out of there yesterday fairly easily. Been printing all kinds of little things to test it out tonight. Did a bigger penguin for my daughter - hour and a half print - few minor blemishes but overall very nice. Also tried to do a benchy, but just over 50% of the way through it came off the bed My big problem right now seemby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa To fix the X mirroring problem: "This firmware corrects some problems with the Folgertech firmware, namely X-axis issues. Please move your X-endstop plug one set of pins over to position 6, and change the X-Endstop settings in your host to MAX." Everything else in the configuration.h file should be fine and won't need changed. Yeah, I saw that and pretty sure I did that. I know Iby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
Whoops, didn't mean to hit Post yet...missed the preview button Was basically just going to say that while it's not perfect it's already printing better than I expected. Can't wait to do some upgrades and finer calibration! The mermaid I did for my daughter came out quite well too: Just printing at 0.4 layer height still...will work on getting that down tonight maybeby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been wanting to get into 3D printing for years. Started collecting parts to build a reprap a couple of times but never got enough parts to actually get anything working. Last April I tore apart a bunch of old DVD drives and made a little 2 axis motion platform out of some of the parts...but never even implemented a Z axis let alone an extruder. Still it taught me enough about the basics tby jhitesma - Prusa i3 and variants