Hi Hunter, In an effort to give you some kind of reply if only to help you look in the right places I have a no name Prusa i3 which I built from a kit, the firmware (Marlin) it used was initially set up by the guy that sold me the kit. Marlin is available from github but it requires specific configuration.h to compile for your specific printer setup (examples in the repository). I got hoby Caribou - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDavid J I converted a RAMPS-powered delta to a Duet - electrically there's little difference, motors plug in, power goes in and out, that sort of stuff. No need to worry about compilation as you just load up the latest firmware, adjust the config files and... just use it. The Duet board is now on a CoreXY machine, and it just... works. No fuss, just changed a few parameters in the config fby Caribou - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, I am building a Prusa I3 variant at the moment and it came with a RAMPS / Arduino combination. All well and good, but I have a Duet board that I want to use. Has anyone here done this yet? I imagine it will be fairly straight forward to do but was looking for any hints or tips on what to expect. I'm a S/W developer by day so I don't fear Arduino Sketches or compiling stuff if that is likeby Caribou - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepixelseventy2 Hi. Whenever I print a larger model, particularly one with a significant flat volume, they nearly always lift and warp at one or two edges. For example, this Raspberry Pi case, it lifted in one corner quite a bit. If I put a brim of 3mm on things like this, it doesn't lift as much, but it still does. Is there anything I can do besides adding an even larger brim? Not sureby Caribou - Fisher
QuoteByteSlinger Quotebgkdavis As Ive already said, I dont recommended the traxxas, they are a bad fit, use mugen seiki they are much bettter, see my original thread for the part details. Btw just checked the details and I made a mistake, the traxxas were not the sloppy ones, they were one of those that are way too tight, they are used on a 5.8mm ball, you could possibly use them with the suppliby Caribou - Fisher
Yeah just to add a +1 to the Carbon Arms role call. I ordered the rod and used Traxxus Ends - they work like a dream.by Caribou - Fisher
I had thought about using Neo Magnets insead of the balls and someone has done something like it - part of this "thing" is an E3D adaptor for his effector - I wonder if it's worth looking into modifying this with the Fisher in mind? Effector using magnetsby Caribou - Fisher
Well thanks again DADIY I finally got a quality print out last night and printed something I wanted to do from the beginning The quality improvement was amazing. I downloaded the config for slicer from Github and apart from reducing speeds I changed nothing. I will reprint a raspberry PI case that I had done over the next couple of days and post the results of that - very happy man at the mby Caribou - Fisher
Wow thanks for that, I did try to go through the forum post of common print problems but thats much better. I made my own profile so I'll take a look at that as well and see whether it makes things better.by Caribou - Fisher
Ok, well I'm still struggling with printing acceptible quality in actual fact but : I also printed a funnel for the Mrs to use in the kitchen practical and fun!by Caribou - Fisher
Quotegeeksarebeta With the recent and very sudden demise of RepRap Pro does anyone know what can be done in future if hardware needs to be replaced in the machines? Is there an alternative supplier that can be used for hobbed gears and/or nozzles, these seem to be the life limiting hardware parts, the plastic can be printed obviously (which I will be doing as soon as I have my Fisher fully calibrby Caribou - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis I've bumped the carbon arm build instructions back to the top of the forum if you look through the forum you should also find ideas others have for making jigs to help get them to the right length The ball spacing is not the most critical part of the fisher build, but the more accurately spaced they are then the more accurately your machine will function, I did make alternative cby Caribou - Fisher
Hey Thanks for the links I got the printer working now and it was mainly mechanical naivety on my part that stopped me from doing this sooner. to anyone building this for the first time, make sure you have the right tools - it makes a huge difference and I think I would have stalled had I not had ball ended allen keys. For the rest I had a screwdriver and suitable hex bit, and a socket attachby Caribou - Fisher
Thanks dc, I'll try these things out. I did retract while the head was hot as well so that may well be the issue there.by Caribou - Fisher
Hi All, ok I have a few questions and I think that my problem may well be down to mechanical issues. I finished my printer using the instructions last night and went through all the commissioning elements in the manual - The instructions were vague in parts but not so much that I couldn't correct any mistakes I made after doing it wrong... 1) The threaded balls on the effector assembly are paby Caribou - Fisher